fastwanabe

Lately I've been having issues with my H22 because it keeps struddering under partial throttle and now it does it under WOT. Also a little while ago I was going down the highway and the motor shutoff for 3-4 sec while doing 80mph then came back to life then did it again for like 2-3sec and never done it again. I think it a fuel problem and I want to change my pump because the car has about 300,000 miles on it and I dont know if its the original pump.

Now here is why I asked this question, I went to the auto parts store to find a fuel pump and the stock civic dx fuel pump has the same part # as the GSR puel pump. I was advised prior to the swap to gaet a bigger fuel pump(GSR), why do people say that when its the same pump? comment are very welcome.

junglerunna

Im still running my stock civic fuel pump, but my chassis only has 47xxx miles on it. Im not sure if that means anything. When I talked to people about upgrading a fuel pump, Ive always been told to use a Walboro 190 or 255lph one.

fastwanabe

anyone else?

poison

Before I changed out my fuel pump, I had that problem in my coupe. I recently bought a Walbro 255 and B&M FPR/gauge and never had the problem anymore.

UpstateCivic

I've still got mine. I'm definately looking to upgrade though.

fastwanabe

is it easy to replace the pump?

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it easy to replace the pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, it is. All you do is remove that blingin plate, unplug the gas tank tensor and the fuel pump harness.

There is about eight 10 mm nuts holding on the cover, remove the 2 hoses. and take out the whole fuel pump assembly.

There is going to be a 'sock' that has some sucked up gas in it, so make sure you have a towel or drain it back in the gas tank.

That's, yet another thing that could be causing your bog. The fuel pump sock could have a **** load of crap on it that may be causing you to bog.

fastwanabe

thank soooo much <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, it is. All you do is remove that blingin plate, unplug the gas tank tensor and the fuel pump harness.

There is about eight 10 mm nuts holding on the cover, remove the 2 hoses. and take out the whole fuel pump assembly.

There is going to be a 'sock' that has some sucked up gas in it, so make sure you have a towel or drain it back in the gas tank.

That's, yet another thing that could be causing your bog. The fuel pump sock could have a **** load of crap on it that may be causing you to bog.</TD></TR></TABLE>

k_spek

I ran my stock civic pump for a month when i first swapped my motor in. It ran fine. Then I put in my walbro 255lph. It raised my fuel pressure all the way up to 50psi at idle. I ran my car like that for about 3 months. It felt like the car was running alittle rich, but it pulled nicely up top. For the last 2 months, I swapped in my friends 94 teg ls pump (flows the same rate as the stock civic pump as I just recently found out) for smog. Well I've noticed that my car doesn't feel like it pulls up top as much since I've swapped it in. My fuel pressure at idle also dropped down to around 30 ish (I don't have a regulator cuz of smog also). Well after two months, the pump is on its last legs. Sometimes my car just dies right after starting it and the pump won't prime for about 5 or 6 tries after that. In first gear when I step on the throttle sometimes, it bogs really hard, misfires, then the fuel finally kicks in and the car lurches forward. I just checked my plugs and I'm running lean. I'm scared to get on it now. I'm going to put the walbro back in before I blow up my motor.

Conclusion: Get a higher flowing pump ASAP. I killed my friends stock pump out of a 94 integra after driving around with it for only 2 months. Good thing I didn't leave my stock pump in my car any longer than i did. It's two years older than my friend's pump!

hondaeg5

the civic and gsr pumps are different. the liter per hour rates are different(i did a search and found this out a while ago) im running the gsr pump now and i dont have any problems. just the damn main relay!! lol

H22CRX

First things first...replace your fuel filter, I bet the fuel you dump out is black. This will cause your car to cut-out.

Jason kiDD

hehe I told ya so.. Fuel pressure is key with the damn ludes. I say just get a walbro and done. It is fairly inexpensive and hella easy to install. If you need help just let me know, I installed mine myself. However I DO recommend some sort of FPR to adjust your pressure back to 40 because it does bump it up.

vtecjag

hey i am running a stock fuel pump in my car with a stock p28 and my car is throwing a code 43 ( fuel sending unit) is this my ecu or am i not getting enough fuel?? i have a fuel pressure riser, vafc and 450 injectors... i need help my car is the moodies thing i have ever seen

eK.ukt773

i'm still using my stock ek pump.. haven't had that happen yet.. my chassis is at about 90,000 mi. ...tnx for starting the thread though..nw i'll know what to do if it does...

Jason kiDD

Read the above post. If you have bigger injectors with a FPR and you are still using a 10 year old fuel pump then you are going to run into problems.. Just upgrade. The walbro pumps can be found for lil over $100 even less and is a direct replacement for you stock pump. No cutting or welding needed..

For you Eks you may not experience the need to change because your cars are fairly new..

Civic Rs

I used my oem civic pump with my old fuel filter without any problem... and I made 203 WHP on the dyno open headers

COMplex.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic Rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used my oem civic pump with my old fuel filter without any problem... and I made 203 WHP on the dyno open headers </TD></TR></TABLE>

what other mods?

Jonathan_ED3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j.fuggi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what other mods?</TD></TR></TABLE>

HondaPartsHero

this is where i get mine at, 99 bucks with shipping and i payed via paypal and got the pump in like 2 days, this guys really fast with shipping and quickly answers emails, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...69986

B18C2

well if it is fule pump the would say change it but check you engin first. and if your car has 300.000 mile the yes i would change the fule pump to H22 pump

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if it is fule pump the would say change it but check you engin first. and if your car has 300.000 mile the yes i would change the fule pump to H22 pump </TD></TR></TABLE>

whaa?

fastwanabe

I didnt get a chance to change the pump yet however I did change the o2 sensor with a new lude one. I didnt make a difference what soever. I do have the B&M FPR and I turned it down to 33psi@ idle but the hestitation is still there. It sort of feels like the timing is being retared @ low RPM's. Also, what are the chances that the regulator is not working right and motor is just dumping fuel?

BTW does anyone have the wiring schematic for a 94 lude with an H22? specifically the o2 wiring and the color destination.

poison

WHT-&gt; WHT-&gt; D14 (O2 input)
GRN -&gt; GRN/WHT -&gt; which is spliced with the IAT, but GRN/WHT is the sensor ground doing to D22. You can splice it with the GRN/WHT wire at the IAT though.
BLK -&gt; YEL/BLK -&gt; Sensor positive which goes to the power junction harness, but this goes to A25 or B1.
BLK -&gt; ORG/BLK -&gt; to A6 which is Heater Control

fastwanabe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHT-&gt; WHT-&gt; D14 (O2 input)
GRN -&gt; GRN/WHT -&gt; which is spliced with the IAT, but GRN/WHT is the sensor ground doing to D22. You can splice it with the GRN/WHT wire at the IAT though.
BLK -&gt; YEL/BLK -&gt; Sensor positive which goes to the power junction harness, but this goes to A25 or B1.
BLK -&gt; ORG/BLK -&gt; to A6 which is Heater Control

</TD></TR></TABLE>awesome thanks poison , however the o2 I bought has 1 grey wire, 1 black wire and 2 white wires. Btween the 2 white wires how do I know which white wire is the signsl wire on the o2(not the H22 harness)

poison

For that one it'd be:

white - yel/blk (a25 power source)
white - org/blk (a6 heater control)
black - grn/wht (d22 sensor ground)
grey - wht (d14 o2 input)



BTW where did you get your new O2 sensor and how much was it? I am thinking mine may be bad.