H22 crx thread H2B specific
03-28-2006, 07:33 AM
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H22 crx thread H2B specific
OK I know their are 50,000 H22 CRX threads......
and I know someone is going to link the thread to 2point2
I'm looking for the complete overview of what is involved to
run an H22 in a crx with the H2B adapter plate (Bseries trans)
I'm about to get in to this project and am just trying to figure out how involved it is
thanks
I know I will need
B series mounts, clutch, flywheel,tranny and axles. I am trying to figure out what will need to be done to acomplish this swap.
Thanks for the help and yes I have searched I just want's all H22 CRX H@B info on one thread
and I know someone is going to link the thread to 2point2
I'm looking for the complete overview of what is involved to
run an H22 in a crx with the H2B adapter plate (Bseries trans)
I'm about to get in to this project and am just trying to figure out how involved it is
thanks
I know I will need
B series mounts, clutch, flywheel,tranny and axles. I am trying to figure out what will need to be done to acomplish this swap.
Thanks for the help and yes I have searched I just want's all H22 CRX H@B info on one thread
03-28-2006, 07:03 PM
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I was wondering the same thing for an ef sedan, of course now the h22 ef kits are out. .. . but what to do as far as h2b I"M stumped too. maybe 1/2 hasport b series(tranny mounts, factory frame mount) half hasport h for the driver side mount????lol!
03-30-2006, 09:39 AM
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Re: (h22chilton)
http://www.imagestation.com/al...95512
My pics of my H2B installation so far ^
You have to grind down part on the back of the block and oil pan for axle clearance. Its not that bad really.
Just as its advertised you use the b series mounts. All of them bolted right up for me, just tight getting it all down in the bay. You get a driver side bracket. Remove the H22 one and bolt this one up.
You will need 4 oem dowel pins. 2 in the block, 2 in the tranny.
You need an aftermarket aluminum flywheel.
The kit comes with all the bolts you will need. Longer flywheel bolts from ARP etc..
The crank pulley wont fit unless you get a custom pulley or notch the frame rail.
Factory hood wont fit, custom is required. No the SiR hood wont work.
Front crossmember wont work either, need an aftermarket. Explicitspeed's bar clears just fine on my car.
Regular obd-0 to obd-1 wiring is required, not supplied of course.
Its a very involving swap, dont expect everything to run smoothly. You will need many small things like radiator hoses, and I had to get a slim fan to run the crx radiator.
I still have some wiring to do so dont ask how its running. Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fire it up, weather permitting.
Forgot to add, the alternator in its factory location wont fit. I have explicitspeeds relocator and it fits fine, just had to put it on after the engine was in.
My pics of my H2B installation so far ^
You have to grind down part on the back of the block and oil pan for axle clearance. Its not that bad really.
Just as its advertised you use the b series mounts. All of them bolted right up for me, just tight getting it all down in the bay. You get a driver side bracket. Remove the H22 one and bolt this one up.
You will need 4 oem dowel pins. 2 in the block, 2 in the tranny.
You need an aftermarket aluminum flywheel.
The kit comes with all the bolts you will need. Longer flywheel bolts from ARP etc..
The crank pulley wont fit unless you get a custom pulley or notch the frame rail.
Factory hood wont fit, custom is required. No the SiR hood wont work.
Front crossmember wont work either, need an aftermarket. Explicitspeed's bar clears just fine on my car.
Regular obd-0 to obd-1 wiring is required, not supplied of course.
Its a very involving swap, dont expect everything to run smoothly. You will need many small things like radiator hoses, and I had to get a slim fan to run the crx radiator.
I still have some wiring to do so dont ask how its running. Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fire it up, weather permitting.
Forgot to add, the alternator in its factory location wont fit. I have explicitspeeds relocator and it fits fine, just had to put it on after the engine was in.
03-30-2006, 10:42 AM
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Re: (black_krix_si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black_krix_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.imagestation.com/al...95512
My pics of my H2B installation so far ^
You have to grind down part on the back of the block and oil pan for axle clearance. Its not that bad really.
Just as its advertised you use the b series mounts. All of them bolted right up for me, just tight getting it all down in the bay. You get a driver side bracket. Remove the H22 one and bolt this one up.
You will need 4 oem dowel pins. 2 in the block, 2 in the tranny.
You need an aftermarket aluminum flywheel.
The kit comes with all the bolts you will need. Longer flywheel bolts from ARP etc..
The crank pulley wont fit unless you get a custom pulley or notch the frame rail.
Factory hood wont fit, custom is required. No the SiR hood wont work.
Front crossmember wont work either, need an aftermarket. Explicitspeed's bar clears just fine on my car.
Regular obd-0 to obd-1 wiring is required, not supplied of course.
Its a very involving swap, dont expect everything to run smoothly. You will need many small things like radiator hoses, and I had to get a slim fan to run the crx radiator.
I still have some wiring to do so dont ask how its running. Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fire it up, weather permitting.
Forgot to add, the alternator in its factory location wont fit. I have explicitspeeds relocator and it fits fine, just had to put it on after the engine was in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, yep and yep.
I turned my OEM pulley down to a single belted pulley for more clearance.
I run the explicit alternator bracket kit with the SOHC alternator as well. http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/
My pics of my H2B installation so far ^
You have to grind down part on the back of the block and oil pan for axle clearance. Its not that bad really.
Just as its advertised you use the b series mounts. All of them bolted right up for me, just tight getting it all down in the bay. You get a driver side bracket. Remove the H22 one and bolt this one up.
You will need 4 oem dowel pins. 2 in the block, 2 in the tranny.
You need an aftermarket aluminum flywheel.
The kit comes with all the bolts you will need. Longer flywheel bolts from ARP etc..
The crank pulley wont fit unless you get a custom pulley or notch the frame rail.
Factory hood wont fit, custom is required. No the SiR hood wont work.
Front crossmember wont work either, need an aftermarket. Explicitspeed's bar clears just fine on my car.
Regular obd-0 to obd-1 wiring is required, not supplied of course.
Its a very involving swap, dont expect everything to run smoothly. You will need many small things like radiator hoses, and I had to get a slim fan to run the crx radiator.
I still have some wiring to do so dont ask how its running. Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fire it up, weather permitting.
Forgot to add, the alternator in its factory location wont fit. I have explicitspeeds relocator and it fits fine, just had to put it on after the engine was in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, yep and yep.
I turned my OEM pulley down to a single belted pulley for more clearance.
I run the explicit alternator bracket kit with the SOHC alternator as well. http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/
03-30-2006, 11:49 AM
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Re: (black_krix_si)
thank you black_krix_si.
I appreciate the info and pix.....
Right now I have my bros. H22 EK running. and a crx shell in my backyard.
I picked up a GSR motor for the crx with bseries mounts for an EF.
with all the **** that's piled up I have gotten the urge to piece together an H crx
I am very close to just dumping the Bseries motor in the crx but since this car won't be a daily driver I'm thinking about going big (2.2) with it...between the H-hatch and gsr motor I picked up I have almost all the parts I will need....
less the H2b adapter plate...the front cross member and the alternator bracket..
what do you guys think ****keep in mind this will not be a daily driver****
well keep the imput coming.....springs here parts are piling and I gotta start on something...
thanks
I appreciate the info and pix.....
Right now I have my bros. H22 EK running. and a crx shell in my backyard.
I picked up a GSR motor for the crx with bseries mounts for an EF.
with all the **** that's piled up I have gotten the urge to piece together an H crx
I am very close to just dumping the Bseries motor in the crx but since this car won't be a daily driver I'm thinking about going big (2.2) with it...between the H-hatch and gsr motor I picked up I have almost all the parts I will need....
less the H2b adapter plate...the front cross member and the alternator bracket..
what do you guys think ****keep in mind this will not be a daily driver****
well keep the imput coming.....springs here parts are piling and I gotta start on something...
thanks
03-30-2006, 12:06 PM
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Re: (kidkanedtx)
I think its a great project for a non daily driver. It allows you to do some more radical modifications such as the H2B
I know this first hand having a track *****/garage princess.
I know this first hand having a track *****/garage princess.
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03-30-2006, 12:56 PM
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think its a great project for a non daily driver. It allows you to do some more radical modifications such as the H2B
I know this first hand having a track *****/garage princess.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed and a b-series crx --- boring ----
ps skunked what kind of pulley did you use?
I know this first hand having a track *****/garage princess.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed and a b-series crx --- boring ----
ps skunked what kind of pulley did you use?
03-30-2006, 02:57 PM
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Re: (kidkanedtx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
agreed and a b-series crx --- boring ----
ps skunked what kind of pulley did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock pulley and I had it turned down to a single belt pulley.
agreed and a b-series crx --- boring ----
ps skunked what kind of pulley did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock pulley and I had it turned down to a single belt pulley.
03-30-2006, 04:50 PM
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Re: (skunked)
i was going to do the same. the only machine shop i found that would do it, turned out to not be the brightest of the bunch. I ended up notching the frame rail.
03-30-2006, 08:31 PM
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i have a few questions i plan on doing this to a da
1.will the stock h22 alternator fit or will i have to do just like the crx and get an adapter?
2.why does it require an aftermarket flywheel?
3.can powersteering be retained at least if so is there a hybrid setup i have to use?
thanks,
Jason
Modified by TheCheeseWedge at 9:50 PM 3/30/2006
1.will the stock h22 alternator fit or will i have to do just like the crx and get an adapter?
2.why does it require an aftermarket flywheel?
3.can powersteering be retained at least if so is there a hybrid setup i have to use?
thanks,
Jason
Modified by TheCheeseWedge at 9:50 PM 3/30/2006
03-31-2006, 07:32 AM
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Re: H22 crx thread H2B specific (Ape)
I would guess for an EG it would be more or less the same procedure with less clearance issues......well now that I think about it I wonder about the passenger side mount??
well back to H22 CRX's H2B specific....thanks for the input guys keep it coming
more questions
1) what's the clearence look like for the oil pan - street
2) I know you need to use spacers for the hood what's the best way to do this while still enabling the hood to latch closed.
3) most importantly one of my friends had an H22 hatch and it ended up ripping the mounts right outta the chasis......I would guess the crx is more fragile than an EK so will this be an issue
4)any suspension suggestions
well back to H22 CRX's H2B specific....thanks for the input guys keep it coming
more questions
1) what's the clearence look like for the oil pan - street
2) I know you need to use spacers for the hood what's the best way to do this while still enabling the hood to latch closed.
3) most importantly one of my friends had an H22 hatch and it ended up ripping the mounts right outta the chasis......I would guess the crx is more fragile than an EK so will this be an issue
4)any suspension suggestions
03-31-2006, 08:39 AM
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Re: (TheCheeseWedge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a few questions i plan on doing this to a da
1.will the stock h22 alternator fit or will i have to do just like the crx and get an adapter? Just like the CRX, you will need to move it down
2.why does it require an aftermarket flywheel? They recommend the use of a Aluminum flywheel becasue there is a aluminum flywheel spacer and the heat expansion properties would be the same for both pieces together.
3.can powersteering be retained at least if so is there a hybrid setup i have to use?
thanks, Power steering is *possible*
Jason
Modified by TheCheeseWedge at 9:50 PM 3/30/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would guess for an EG it would be more or less the same procedure with less clearance issues......well now that I think about it I wonder about the passenger side mount??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tranny sits in the factory location so just use a stock mount and you are good to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
more questions
1) what's the clearence look like for the oil pan - street
</TD></TR></TABLE>
for the EG/DC its just like the OE B series swap clearance. For the rex and DA I would think it would be very similar. Anybody with a B series in their da/crx could verify this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) I know you need to use spacers for the hood what's the best way to do this while still enabling the hood to latch closed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
spacers like you said for the EG/DC H2B guys. For the CRX and DA's you need more spacers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) most importantly one of my friends had an H22 hatch and it ended up ripping the mounts right outta the chasis......I would guess the crx is more fragile than an EK so will this be an issue
</TD></TR></TABLE>
homemade mounts? This is not something I would be concerned about unless you had some serious whp.
1.will the stock h22 alternator fit or will i have to do just like the crx and get an adapter? Just like the CRX, you will need to move it down
2.why does it require an aftermarket flywheel? They recommend the use of a Aluminum flywheel becasue there is a aluminum flywheel spacer and the heat expansion properties would be the same for both pieces together.
3.can powersteering be retained at least if so is there a hybrid setup i have to use?
thanks, Power steering is *possible*
Jason
Modified by TheCheeseWedge at 9:50 PM 3/30/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would guess for an EG it would be more or less the same procedure with less clearance issues......well now that I think about it I wonder about the passenger side mount??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tranny sits in the factory location so just use a stock mount and you are good to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
more questions
1) what's the clearence look like for the oil pan - street
</TD></TR></TABLE>
for the EG/DC its just like the OE B series swap clearance. For the rex and DA I would think it would be very similar. Anybody with a B series in their da/crx could verify this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) I know you need to use spacers for the hood what's the best way to do this while still enabling the hood to latch closed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
spacers like you said for the EG/DC H2B guys. For the CRX and DA's you need more spacers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) most importantly one of my friends had an H22 hatch and it ended up ripping the mounts right outta the chasis......I would guess the crx is more fragile than an EK so will this be an issue
</TD></TR></TABLE>
homemade mounts? This is not something I would be concerned about unless you had some serious whp.
03-31-2006, 09:33 AM
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
homemade mounts? This is not something I would be concerned about unless you had some serious whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No they were Hasports first the actual mount bracket for the passenger side broke,
hasport replaced it and a couple of months later the mount ripped a protion of the mounting location off the EK
and it wasn't a signifigant amount of power less than 200 whp
homemade mounts? This is not something I would be concerned about unless you had some serious whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No they were Hasports first the actual mount bracket for the passenger side broke,
hasport replaced it and a couple of months later the mount ripped a protion of the mounting location off the EK
and it wasn't a signifigant amount of power less than 200 whp
03-31-2006, 10:12 AM
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Re: (kidkanedtx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidkanedtx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No they were Hasports first the actual mount bracket for the passenger side broke,
hasport replaced it and a couple of months later the mount ripped a protion of the mounting location off the EK
and it wasn't a signifigant amount of power less than 200 whp</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard of that to be honest. Sounds like he may have some bad luck.....
I know the EK's have a tendancy of ripping the DS stock mount and thats why Hasport and others make the reinforced mounts now to fix that.
No they were Hasports first the actual mount bracket for the passenger side broke,
hasport replaced it and a couple of months later the mount ripped a protion of the mounting location off the EK
and it wasn't a signifigant amount of power less than 200 whp</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard of that to be honest. Sounds like he may have some bad luck.....
I know the EK's have a tendancy of ripping the DS stock mount and thats why Hasport and others make the reinforced mounts now to fix that.
03-31-2006, 10:22 AM
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have never heard of that to be honest. Sounds like he may have some bad luck.....
I know the EK's have a tendancy of ripping the DS stock mount and thats why Hasport and others make the reinforced mounts now to fix that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have over 700 lb/tq with my h22 and no problems with mounts... 
I know the EK's have a tendancy of ripping the DS stock mount and thats why Hasport and others make the reinforced mounts now to fix that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have over 700 lb/tq with my h22 and no problems with mounts...
03-31-2006, 12:54 PM
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have never heard of that to be honest. Sounds like he may have some bad luck.....
I know the EK's have a tendancy of ripping the DS stock mount and thats why Hasport and others make the reinforced mounts now to fix that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know the second time It was the stock mount....but I believe he got a replacement from hasport that was supposed to be better than the orig.....and It ripped the stock mount....I don't know If you want more info pm H22EKHATCH
I have never heard of that to be honest. Sounds like he may have some bad luck.....
I know the EK's have a tendancy of ripping the DS stock mount and thats why Hasport and others make the reinforced mounts now to fix that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know the second time It was the stock mount....but I believe he got a replacement from hasport that was supposed to be better than the orig.....and It ripped the stock mount....I don't know If you want more info pm H22EKHATCH
04-04-2006, 04:22 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The crank pulley wont fit unless you get a custom pulley or notch the frame rail
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you say turn the crank pully down on a lathe so it is just 1 pulley im guessing you will loose the powersteering? has anyone actully notched the frame yet that has a photo? or is everyone turning down their pulleys on lathes?
how would you go about nothing the frame? just hammer the frame inwards to create clearance for the belts+pulleys? or cut out and weld in a new section?. also where can you source a new alternatour mount for an EG delsol which will let you use the oem pulleys?
the rest of the install looks very easy, probably even easyer for me as my car is rhd so all by brake components are on the alternite side of the engine bay :D
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you say turn the crank pully down on a lathe so it is just 1 pulley im guessing you will loose the powersteering? has anyone actully notched the frame yet that has a photo? or is everyone turning down their pulleys on lathes?
how would you go about nothing the frame? just hammer the frame inwards to create clearance for the belts+pulleys? or cut out and weld in a new section?. also where can you source a new alternatour mount for an EG delsol which will let you use the oem pulleys?
the rest of the install looks very easy, probably even easyer for me as my car is rhd so all by brake components are on the alternite side of the engine bay :D
04-04-2006, 07:41 AM
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Re: (redsolturbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsolturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you say turn the crank pully down on a lathe so it is just 1 pulley im guessing you will loose the powersteering? has anyone actully notched the frame yet that has a photo? or is everyone turning down their pulleys on lathes?
how would you go about nothing the frame? just hammer the frame inwards to create clearance for the belts+pulleys? or cut out and weld in a new section?. also where can you source a new alternatour mount for an EG delsol which will let you use the oem pulleys?
the rest of the install looks very easy, probably even easyer for me as my car is rhd so all by brake components are on the alternite side of the engine bay :D </TD></TR></TABLE>
I turned my oem pulley down to a single belt pulley. There are a few different ways you can obtain the clearance needed. Personally I would cut out the subframe and weld in bracing.
http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net sells the SOHC alternator brackets for the H22.
if you say turn the crank pully down on a lathe so it is just 1 pulley im guessing you will loose the powersteering? has anyone actully notched the frame yet that has a photo? or is everyone turning down their pulleys on lathes?
how would you go about nothing the frame? just hammer the frame inwards to create clearance for the belts+pulleys? or cut out and weld in a new section?. also where can you source a new alternatour mount for an EG delsol which will let you use the oem pulleys?
the rest of the install looks very easy, probably even easyer for me as my car is rhd so all by brake components are on the alternite side of the engine bay :D </TD></TR></TABLE>
I turned my oem pulley down to a single belt pulley. There are a few different ways you can obtain the clearance needed. Personally I would cut out the subframe and weld in bracing.
http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net sells the SOHC alternator brackets for the H22.
04-05-2006, 12:31 PM
#23
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Re: (lightcrx)
light crx....tell us a story about the hood?? people have clearance issue questions
Its sure not the prettiest way to get the hood closed but it works
info please
Its sure not the prettiest way to get the hood closed but it works
info please
04-05-2006, 12:46 PM
#24
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the problem with the hood is probley worse for me because i made my own mounts(strightest axel postion i can get), i belive thats why the engine is so high...... what i did was cut a hole in the hood, then i covered the engine with card board and tape. i made just enough clearance so the engine wouldnt hit. i layed some fiberglass mat over and went to town. i was just going to riviot it on but it looked more shitty so i fiberglassed it to the hood. next hood i make is going to be out of metal.... that was just for cmi.
i have a question tho, when hasport makes there mounts do they make a jig on a lowered car or stock hight? i know they dont try to get the strightest axel possible but more like a combanation of both fitting it under the hood and axels... ya know?
-joseph
i have a question tho, when hasport makes there mounts do they make a jig on a lowered car or stock hight? i know they dont try to get the strightest axel possible but more like a combanation of both fitting it under the hood and axels... ya know?
-joseph
clears!!
