Ok so i posted and got no response probably due to the title. Well im not new to H-T but i dont post much. Im also new to the H/F series so bare with me.

So i have a F23a1 and a H22 head, and obviously i plan on doing a G23 vtec.

So here is my question, i dont wanna use K20 pistons since they rotate CW in the motor, but in order to use the H22a pistons do i need to mill out the CC on the head?

I saw that on Pirates (not sure of his full user name and to lazy to look it up) but when he did the f22/f23 and h23 head he had to mill the head.

Also ive thought about using h23 pistons just to lower the compression a little more to make the motor a little more reliable.

if anyone knows or has any advice about this combo id appreciate it.

 

use the stock f-series pistons that come with the f23a1(try to find some forged aftermarket ones that have the std. comp ratio) when using the h22a head you will not have to mill the head and they will give you a low 8.8:1 CP ratio great for turbo *wink*.

 

I've given that thought consideration since, i have a small garrett sitting in my parents garage, but im not looking for that much power. More or less looking for a build with all oem parts, mild build...but we shall see. Haven't been working on it much lately, been trying to get my ducks in a row.

My thoughts were:
F23a1 bored to 87mm
Possibly Type S Cams
H23 pistons
Been looking into the k20 adapter Intake manifold adapter since i can get the manifold cheap, and for hood clearance.

Nothing outrageous but would be fun as hell with a hydro d-series si tranny..

looking for about 10.5-11:1

 

C'mon let see some facts...not what you would like to see done (no offense).

Main thing is i saw with the H23 head it needed to be milled with the H22 pistons in the F23,
will the H22 head need to be milled with the H22 pistons in the F23?

 

i have about 11.7:1 with the k20 87mm wiseco pistons i put in to my G-build it makes about 250+ to the wheels and its always a good idea to get your head milled when doing any build just so you know your starting fresh

 

Yea i was trying to be a cheap a$$ and not go forged lol...but i may end up doing that anyways and getting rods just for reassurance.

And when i said have the head milled i meant the CC for p2v clearance, my bad for not explaining better.

DA9racer: whats your experience with the rings in the F23's and boost. Like i said new to the F and H so instead of going forged right now i may just boost the motor on stock internals(5-10psi), just to get it running(tuned) and a little something out of it...As i save the money i will then tear it back down and rebuild it after i finish my ej8 coupe.

 

yeah thats fine and as long as you keep the boost low you shouldn't have a problem. but no more then 10psi or it could be a bad day ya know, if or going with this set-up for awhile then if i may... try and find out what your stock p2v clearance is and how much room you have to play with... then take that info with your stock cam shaft to delta cams in tacoma and for a really cheap price they can hook you up with a litter bit better of a cam that will help your engine breath easyer.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I have been watching a reading all these threads regarding the "G23". Mine is just about ready to be started.

 

sweet keep me posted

 

pretty sure the pin height is different on the h23 vs the f23... think it puts the piston higer in the bore.

 

Your probably right about the wrist pin height in the piston, I'm not trying to make huge horsepower just something fun to drive that wont explode on me. Im either gonna do as DA9racer said and get the forged rods and stock forged k-series pistons(will be built as 8.8:1 as a dd til i can get the money), or just build it the 8.8:1 on about 5-10 lbs of boost.

See its going in my 88 ED hatch, with a 96-97 JDM Del Sol Si tranny (S8g) with Bisi's F2D kit so because of the weight of the Chassis and torque it will still be fun as **** to drive with d-series gearing.

 

im planning the same build but its taking me a while to get some money in but i going a different route.
getting the h22 built with skunk2 internals and going forge if i can find some. but i want to be able to boost this motor as much as possible so i can try to keep up with my buddy DC who boost 24# all day as a DD.

 

You might want to rethink what your doing, from what i understand you don't want to run forged internals in your H22 unless its sleeved, because the pistons expand due to heat at a different rate then the FRM Cylinder walls of the H22.

And I'm using the ba$tard child of Honda the F23 not an H22 so there are different things to consider in my build. My block at a stock bore can handle more boost then a stock H22 because it has Iron Cylinder walls. The weak point in my motor is the rods, and i have only seen one company who sells F23 rods and they are 2-3 times the amount as any other motor(doesn't make sense IMO).

Also money is a problem for me, as well as probably a lot of us on here...but oh well gotta do what you love

 

Search, its been covered alot.. specially in the all motor forum, there's a readout and layout build thread.

 

Actually i have searched and the problem with that is most people on here don't know what there talking about like the guy who posted before me. I have found the information I have asked about so your a little late on the searching thing because that's all a lot people seem to assume is that no one searches. Ive read Pirates thread and a bunch of other threads on the G23, even the import tuner article and all it says is stock h22 or k20 pistons nothing at all technical. I have even read Borlis thread also EF9 something is his user name.

Like i said i don't have much experience with the H/F but i have done some research only to come up with something i am inconclusive about since i don't have all the parts i need to clay my motor with and money is an issue. I was looking for a Yes or No, but im gonna assume since you say search you don't know either and if you do, why not shed some light on the subject or point me in a better direction then the ones i have been searching.

Don't assume i haven't searched.

edit// I have also checked the All Motor forum and found nothing of use, if you know of a specific thread that would be great tho.

 

what i meant about the piston height is that it puts the piston like 20 thous out of the hole (block)... not good for keeping head gaskets alive as it puts undue stress on the gasket from the flame point, or so my engine builder has told me time and time again, so u end up havin to fly cut ir piston 20 to make it 0 deck then u just dumped a bunch of compression, i have not heard that u need to mill ur head, b careful thr as that will bring ur valves that much closer to ur pistons.....