LilLowEK

Today my buddy and I got most of the work done on my LS swap. Some info on the car / motor is below.

94 LS B18B
96 Honda Civic CX Hatchback

I've done a lot of reading and research on this. However I ran into a few things that I'm not sure on. They are listed below.

1. What do people do with upper and lower radiator hoses? The integra ones are too large for the Civic's radiator. The Civic ones are too small for the Integra's goose necks. Do people just take the civic clamp on the integra hoses and make them work?

2. When looking at the motor from the front of the car there is a sensor in the right of the intake manifold. It's round and I want to say two prong connector. I do not recall my civic having this. What is it? Does my stock harness have this or do I need to splice one on from the integra? If so which do I splice to?

3. The integra has 2 thin vacuum lines running from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister. The civic canister has two larger hoses. I believe both have one going to the fuel system. Do I use the complete integra vacuum canister in place of my civic one?

Tese few things and some light wiring and belts is all I have to do. The motor, tranny, axles, etc is all in and done.

Thanks in advance.
Jeremy

bladesz42

1. im pretty sure you just use integra hoses. thats what i used on my ls swap in my del slo but i could be wrong

2.the round two prong connector is your intake air temp sensor or IAT on the stock ek harness it is a square plug that connects to a sensor in the intake tubing. all you do is get a obd1 IAT sensor socket and solder that in place of the obd2a IAT socket.

3. im not sure on that one my 96 dx has it plugged. im pretty sure its not 100% needed.

good luck

BIGef

1. Yes you can use integra hoses but gonna have to clamp them down tight. But if you wanna the legit one. You can buy one specifically 99-00 Civic Si upper and lower hoses.

HondaPartsHero

For the radiator I've seen a few options. Some people either clamp the radiator hoses real tight with no issues or you can use the Civic Si radiator with the larger connections.

For the IAT you can also put your stock IAT into whatever intake arm you will be using with a grommet from a valve cover PVC like so:



As for the EVAP purge what ECU will you be using? I know the purge for the 94 LS uses 3 lines off the canister (1 to fuel take 2 way valve, one off throttle body, one from purge solenoid). I'm assuming you could use the LS canister and do it like OEM or just eliminate the line from the TB and just use the Civics evap lines like the photos below.

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

Can someone post a pic of how they have their evap setup on their b18b?

LilLowEK

thanks guys. I am using the stock ls obd1 ecu. I'll swap the canister as I have the complete donor car. I'll clamp the hoses if that's what people do. the stock radiator is going to cool the motor alright?


also. what belt for people use for the ac? I'm using the ls motor and the CRV ac mount.

nealnanoHX

1. I just used the B18 hoses on my D series rad it works fine you just need new hose clamps to tighten them down on the smaller rad necks. Or you can get a Del Sol Vtec or 99-00 Si rad that has the larger rad necks for the B series.
2. That is the B18 AIT sensor. You can either extend your AIT sensor wires and swap the plug with the B18 counterpart or go the easy way like I did and just use the D series AIT sensor in the intake tube (its in the air box on your Y7).
3. You will use the D series Evap purge equipment just change out whatever lines you need to to make it fit ie longer lines/larger lines. Yes you need it for emissions since you are in a 96 Civic.

HondaPartsHero

For the obd1 ecu you can skip the canister altogether. The radiator will cool fine.

LilLowEK

Thanks again guys. I'm going to try to get this all back together this weekend. I'll probably just use the Integra vacuum canister. It seems to be easy to take off and I can keep everything stock that way.

Someone told me a good trick on the radiator/hose problem I had. Take the d series hose and cut a section long enough to fit over the necks on the radiator. Then slide the B series hoses over the D hose that's on the neck. It's supposed to be a snug fit and then the B clamps work fine. It seems a lot safer than just hoping a clamp holds it tight enough. Just wanted to pass that on incase it may help someone!

As of that sensor I didn't thnink of that. I planned on hooking the D series one up to my short ram. I'll probably just cut the plug off of the B harness and run the wire down below. Just to give the illusion that it's hooked up and doing something. Hopefully will look cleaner than not having a sensor plugged in.

LilLowEK

Just to add to this.

I finally got the car done. As of the topics in this thread I ended up using the stock vacuum canister off of the LS. I had to swap the bottom plug with the civic one to make it work. Also had to wire up the other sensor.

I ended up just using the stock civic radiator and the LS hoses. I skipped the factory clamps and double upd other hose clamps on both necks. The car has ran about 30 minutes. 15 at idle and about 15 going out the road. No issues yet. No check engine light.

My oil let did come on at one point. I checked the oil pressure sensor plug. It wasn't very tight. I put it back on and it didn't come on for a bit but then started to flicker. I really pushed on that damn thing and it hasn't come back on yet. Perhaps the Civic oil pressure switch plug doesn't make good contact with the integra sensor? It all looks the same to me though.

Is this anything to worry about? The flashing of the oil light. Does that sound just like a bad connection?

Thanks to everyone for their help!!!

HondaPartsHero

Yeah the sensors are the same between models. If you're really worried you can check the oil pressure or swap the sensors over from the civic. Come to think of it for the radiator, the last radiator I bought off ebay came with rubber hose sections to use on the inlet and outlets so the radiator would be compatible with both b and d series hoses so it should be fine.

LilLowEK

Just FYI no oil light since I really pushed it on there. The car has been running strong!

JuggerNaut-CTR

^Good job buddy

LilLowEK

To keep this updated my oil light came on again. This time only at RPMs under 2800. The car's oil level was down a little. Maybe 1/4 of a quart. I checked the switch again and still can't seem to make a good contact. I finally did a bit of digging on the Honda parts site. Turns out Honda makes two oil switches for the D and B. I noticed the one on my B didn't appear to be threaded all the way into the block. It was also leaking oil around it. I removed it and compared it to my other. They are in fact two different sensors. Two different size sockets and the black housing on the front of the sensor is bigger than what my D's was. I'm uncertain if the plugs are the same or not. The last different was on the sensor side that reads the oil. The opening is bigger on the one in the B compared to my D. I installed the one for the D. It threaded all the way in. The plug snapped in place easily. It's much more tighter than it was. Drove it 30 miles and no oil light.

Perhaps this will help someone in the future!

nealnanoHX

Glad it all went well for you.

LilLowEK

Thanks. I like to keep threads updated with findings in case it can ever help someone reading over the threads at a later date.

Osckeano

They make hoses specifically for the swap