Feedback on B18C1 swap.
Hello
So I have been doing some research and I think I have just about everything I need.
Motor is a B18C1, Trans is a S80
Going into a manual 96 Hatch with a d16 non v tech
I believe this should just be plug and play if I'm not mistaken?
I have a wiring harness from the donor car
I have a P72 obd 2 ECU
I have all the mounts that came on the engine/trans which should bolt into my chassis?
I think I may only need a throttle cable?
Also in the parts bin we received there is an Apexi V tec controller wired into a green ECU plugs which appears to be a jumper harness. I am going to guess this is installed inline with the ECU so we can control the Vtec?
I know this has been done a million times but some of the links are not working in the swap section. Its my sons car and will be his first project ever so I am trying to make this go as smooth as possible.
He is also doing research and we are sharing info with each other.
Thank you all..
So I have been doing some research and I think I have just about everything I need.
Motor is a B18C1, Trans is a S80
Going into a manual 96 Hatch with a d16 non v tech
I believe this should just be plug and play if I'm not mistaken?
I have a wiring harness from the donor car
I have a P72 obd 2 ECU
I have all the mounts that came on the engine/trans which should bolt into my chassis?
I think I may only need a throttle cable?
Also in the parts bin we received there is an Apexi V tec controller wired into a green ECU plugs which appears to be a jumper harness. I am going to guess this is installed inline with the ECU so we can control the Vtec?
I know this has been done a million times but some of the links are not working in the swap section. Its my sons car and will be his first project ever so I am trying to make this go as smooth as possible.
He is also doing research and we are sharing info with each other.
Thank you all..
You will need the rear t bracket which only comes from a 99-00 civic si.
You may need the drivers engine bracket from a 97-01 crv, depends on your current mount.
Throw away the vtec controller. Hopefully you have an obd2a p72.
It would be best to include pictures of what you have. Click the portrait next to the smiley to upload.
You may need the drivers engine bracket from a 97-01 crv, depends on your current mount.
Throw away the vtec controller. Hopefully you have an obd2a p72.
It would be best to include pictures of what you have. Click the portrait next to the smiley to upload.
I do have a P72 ECU

Came with a second one as well not sure what for? Maybe the guys other civic that was crashed.
I believe this motor was already swapped into a civic at one point. The background on the motor is that its supposed to be a piston rod motor (which I'm in the process of confirming) that a kid had in a civic had just built and then he crashed the civic. I do not know what year civic.
The head has been done.
Cam lobes have like no wear at all on them.
Also, In the one photo you can see they had the Intake advanced 1 tooth.
Was this done to bump the compression? I believe I read that is why this is done sometimes.
We do plan to boost it so should I put the timing back?
Was this done to bump the compression? I believe I read that is why this is done sometimes.
We do plan to boost it so should I put the timing back?
The p72 you have is likely obd2b which has an immobilizer. Unless you have the key and sensor ring that matches the ecu you will not be able to use it. The other ecu is useless as well. You need a 96-98 p72.
The mechanical timing is just wrong and hopefully there is no damage to the engine if it was run that way.
The mechanical timing is just wrong and hopefully there is no damage to the engine if it was run that way.
Per the Hondata website its an OBD2A as the far left plug is used as well as the 2 far right plugs. So good news there I guess.
Timing wise, I should just pop the head off and have it checked for bent valves and then start over new?
Timing wise, I should just pop the head off and have it checked for bent valves and then start over new?
Good news for the ecu. You could probably get away with setting the mechanical timing correctly and from there rotate the engine by hand. If it rotates smoothly for at least 2 crank revolutions you could install the trans and starter and compression test it.
Trending Topics
All set on the timing now. I used a bore scope and the pistons due have some carbon on them but I didn't see any contact points.
I also turned the lights off in the garage to see if the light from the bore scope was making it into any closed intake or exhaust valves
I know its not exact but an extra step.
QUOTE=Chrisfrom1986;52608219]Good news for the ecu. You could probably get away with setting the mechanical timing correctly and from there rotate the engine by hand. If it rotates smoothly for at least 2 crank revolutions you could install the trans and starter and compression test it.[/QUOTE]
I also turned the lights off in the garage to see if the light from the bore scope was making it into any closed intake or exhaust valves
I know its not exact but an extra step.
QUOTE=Chrisfrom1986;52608219]Good news for the ecu. You could probably get away with setting the mechanical timing correctly and from there rotate the engine by hand. If it rotates smoothly for at least 2 crank revolutions you could install the trans and starter and compression test it.[/QUOTE]
Wiesco pistons. Hbeam rods. Not sure of brand.
I was able to see the side skirt when I pulled the pan to check the rods.
couldn't tell from the bore scope. To much carbon.
We are pretty happy. This motor was free with the 96 hatch he bought for 4500.
hatch only has 92k but i did have to fix rust in the pass rocker..
Could probably use a pass qtr as well but its just bubbling for now..
P.s Thank you for the guidance.
I was able to see the side skirt when I pulled the pan to check the rods.
couldn't tell from the bore scope. To much carbon.
We are pretty happy. This motor was free with the 96 hatch he bought for 4500.
hatch only has 92k but i did have to fix rust in the pass rocker..
Could probably use a pass qtr as well but its just bubbling for now..
P.s Thank you for the guidance.
1 more question here for now LOL
The CFP sensor or CFK.
The harness I have does not have a plug in for it that I can see. I can find a ton of articles on how to bypass it if the motor dont have one but This motor does hell we bought a new one as the wires were torn.
Im struggling to find where this plugs into on the harness if at all?
Thank you
The CFP sensor or CFK.
The harness I have does not have a plug in for it that I can see. I can find a ton of articles on how to bypass it if the motor dont have one but This motor does hell we bought a new one as the wires were torn.
Im struggling to find where this plugs into on the harness if at all?
Thank you
Thank you..
The guy before us must have removed them.. I did find where they did the jumper wires so I think we are good.
QUOTE=Chrisfrom1986;52610300]The oil pump has the sensor mounted on it, the wires go up inside the timing cover to just above the alternator where the harness plugs into it.[/QUOTE]
The guy before us must have removed them.. I did find where they did the jumper wires so I think we are good.
QUOTE=Chrisfrom1986;52610300]The oil pump has the sensor mounted on it, the wires go up inside the timing cover to just above the alternator where the harness plugs into it.[/QUOTE]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
619ej8
Engine Management and Tuning
1
Jan 18, 2013 08:41 PM
cramers coupe
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
May 29, 2005 05:50 PM



