BrayzieEF9

Since I'm not getting any answers in the F20B FAQS, I thought I should make a new thread.

Alright I have some questions. I'm doing a F2B swap(JDM F20B Manual Version) into a 97 Civic HX and Will be using the stock PCB ECU. So I'm staying OBD-2!

#1-What all needs to be wired (extended?)? will be doing the CKF bypass, since in the future I will be switching to a USDM OBD-2 ECU for Emissions. I know the alternator wires will need to be extended.

#2-Will I need any special vacuum hoses or fuel hoses? Answered!

#3-What radiator hoses are a direct fit? I found the answer somewhere, but couldn't find it again.

#4-What gaskets can I use for the head and block? I figured them out!

#5-What fuel rail is compatible with the F20B studs? or will my stock fuel line reach?

#6-Is there a steel oil pan I can use? Because the aluminum one sucks ***! F20B's come with aluminum pans, hence why it's sealed with Hondabond from the factory. Answered!

#7-Can I use a OBD2 H22 dizzy and plug it right up? or can I pass OBD-2 Emissions with the F20B Dizzy? Answered! H22 Dizzy fits.

#8-Also is anyone running the Innovative A/C kit with the ESP D series Alt Tensioner? Any Issues?

Sorry, if these have already been answered. But all the info is scattered instead of consolidated!

BrayzieEF9

bump

Paul_H22

Most ppl will tell u to line ur questions in order cuz its harder to read them and too much to read.. name them Q #1, #2, etc or something like that so u can get an answer to the question asked..

Paul_H22

Ur best bet is to get a usdm h22 I/M which will solve half ur problems unless ur a DIY guy and like saving money and doing stuff urself (like me)... Just curious on y u got an aluminium oil pan? I got a f20b too in my si, well f2b but mine is steel oem... And y r u looking for obd2 h22 distributor? Is urs missing or broken cuz that f20 one will work?...

Sound to me like either u got it by parts or ur trying to rebuild it.. why u need the head gasket and all? There is tons of info on what parts interchange with h22 parts..

BrayzieEF9

I'm trying to keep it OBD-2, so it can pass Emissions. I don't need the head gasket, all the other seals though. I always replace the gaskets and seals. When I take a part apart.

Paul_H22

Oh well yeah that's what ur supposed to do but don't take the head off cuz f20b gaskets r too expansive, not worth changing unless ur building the block. And no complaints about them leaking yet so ull be fine... Unless Ofcourse ur motor got over 100k then thats a different question..

Paul_H22

Oh and ill trade u oil pans if u want.. send me a pic, mine is just black oem no dents, just couple light scratches from moving the motor from the pallet to the garage floor and from there to an engine stand..

BrayzieEF9

Lol, I don't plan on taking off the head, I'm just changing all the small seals from the parts I took off to clean.Well, I already ordered all the seals and gaskets I need
Mine is dented a little, you don't want the aluminum one. It will tear, if it gets hit hard. That's why, I want the steel one. Oh yeah, did you have any oil pickup issues on your swap?

BrayzieEF9

What's wrong with the F20B IM? I'm using the stock PCB ECU, which supports the 3 wire IACV?

Paul_H22

Problem is not the 3 wires, its ur harness that has only 2 wires. Can't wire in the 3 wires into 2... Most ppl swap to usdm I/M cuz of the 2 wire iacv, lhd fuel rail and matching injectors with studs.. I'm running my f20b I/M too but I just took out the whole egr system and made an egr block from aluminium scrap and dremeled out the inside of the I/m for more free air and low end torque, supposed to add 8 whp (dyno proven) and either low-mid range torque and better throttle response or top end with better throttle response depending on which route u take to dremel ur runners.. I also got an h22 throttle body cuz the map sensor don't mount to it, better hood clearance and I port matched it... Shud breath great now, oh and polished it on the inside as best I could with the tools at work I had..

I still want the aluminium pan for couple of reasons as long as its not cracked..

What do u mean problem with my pick up? I heard something bout it but not sure y... Mine isn't daily driven yet cuz I'm paying off my tickets I got from 6 years ago to get my license.. ill be done tjis year so by summer it'll be on the road.. but it starts fine and drives fine so far.. Y? What's supposed to be the probldm? Maybe I over looked it or something..

BrayzieEF9

I remember reading somewhere to wire up the 3 wire IACV and what size is the TB on the H22? My pan isn't cracked, just dented a little. Also what ECU are you running? I guess the oil pickup is on the deep side of the pan since its tilted.

SteelcityLude

Cast aluminum pans don't dent they crack. If yours is dented its steel

SteelcityLude

Always match your pickup with your pan. Stock jdm h22 tb is 60mm so you will be down grading if you have f20b manual version tb

BrayzieEF9

It's lightly dented, cast aluminum pans use Hondabond and the steel ones use gaskets.
Yeah, my TB is 65mm.

Paul_H22

Rosko sells adaptor kits relocate kits for 2 wire iacv for a reason.. much less head ache cuz u have to cut out the Orange wire and relocate the black with on the ecu pin out or something like that, dint quote me on that cuz I heard that but never did it or saw with my eye it being done and working cuz I just made an adaptor pc from scrap aluminum and screwed my h22 iacv in that place, super simple and harness uncut/untouched... I'm running a prelude ecu for now until I get it figured out cuz that's basically the only problem I got... Mine never came with an ecu.. my h22 tb is 62mm and I ported the edges of it and port matched it to my intake manifold for better flow so I don't call that down gradeing... Main reason was hood clearance... Didn't wanna mess with axles angleing or cutting my web off of my perfect oem si blue hood... Incase ill swap it out for something else I won't punch myself for ruining a good part... Plus it looks super clean, I hate the cut webbing look.. is sacrifice 3mm anytime for looks and perfection cuz I probably won't notice the difference anyways.. now if it was a weekend drag or auto x then that's a different story..

SteelcityLude

No my h23a blue top oil pan used hondabond instead of a gasket and it is steel, more than likely the same pan, same as f23, cast aluminum does not dent or bend at all it cracks

BrayzieEF9

The rosko kit does not work with the F20B IM, it only works with the Euro-R IM. I'm doing a F2B Swap!
I'm pretty sure mines aluminum, otherwise it wouldn't be such a pita to get the pan off. Because it bends, when you try to pry it off. A steel pan just pops off.

Paul_H22

Euro-r is accord same as f20b, iacv sensors are exactly the same and so are h23a cuz they r accord too... If it works for euro r and h23a I'm willing to bet it will work on f20b.. I was too cheap and had time on my hands so I made one.. all accord iacv's are the same, and all h22s are the same, type s or not, JDM or not same...

BrayzieEF9

They're not the same, Euro-R has a single runner IM with the IACV on the back. The F20B IM has the IACV on the front.

SteelcityLude

Dude it's a pain to get off cuz of the Hondabond there is no gasket for it to just pop off cast aluminum DOES NOT BEND the f23 uses the same setup steel pan with Honda bond just like my h23 if u don't believe go on majestic and look up the f23 oil pan and see if it has a gasket. If your pan is black it's steel. And the rosko adapter does work on the f20b manifold

BrayzieEF9

It must not be very strong steel, because it bends so easily.Show me a picture of the Rosko IACV adapter installed on a F20B IM.

Edit: Never mind, the IACV adapter should work. I checked my manifold. But regardless, no one is answering any of my OP questions.

SteelcityLude

Everything is the same as an h22 swap, you will have to extend your fuel line, being that the f20b style injectors are slightly shorter I'm not sure if you can use an h22 rail without a little rigging.

As long as your Iab vac lines are still attached you shouldn't need and extra vac lines ran.

Only way I know of to stay obd2 is what I told you with the h23, which everything is the same, I've heard rewiring the f20b dizzy is a pain and I'm pretty sure those guys went obd1. The info is out there just might not be f20b specific

BrayzieEF9

That's why I asked about the OBD-2 H22 Dizzy?

SteelcityLude

The h22 dizzy fits

BrayzieEF9

Okay, got that answered. I should have all the info I need for staying OBD-2. Now need some answers for the other questions.