Whats up. Im having some problems with a steady idle. Ive tried everything. Completly flushed my coolant system refilled and got the bubbles out, cleaned my IAC valve and everything. I put my finger over the hole in the throttle body (FITV) and it seamed to idle fine. Is this my problem and if it is could someone tell me how to get this off to replace it or if there is a way to fix or clean it. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks Guys.


Modified by CustomTeggy44 at 11:19 PM 2/23/2004

 

um
it would help if you told us what the problem was.

 

Im having problems KEEPING a steady idle like say 750 while not moving. It jumps from about 1000-3000 while im sitting at stop lights or not moving.

 

I apprietiate those who looked or those who didnt know what i wanted them to help me with for looking. I figured out the problem. I need to replace my Fast Idle Thermo Valve. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CustomTeggy44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I apprietiate those who looked or those who didnt know what i wanted them to help me with for looking. I figured out the problem. I need to replace my Fast Idle Thermo Valve. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think you needed to replace it. Take it apart and screw down the white washer like deal and it will fix your problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think you needed to replace it. Take it apart and screw down the white washer like deal and it will fix your problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where is it located? COuld it be also the IACV?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emissionsux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where is it located? COuld it be also the IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. The idle air control valve and the FITV are two different things. The FITV is typically below the throttle body. You will see the backing plate on it, it has two 8mm bolts on it. Remove the bolts to expose the plunger. Thread it back in, reassemble. Try that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No. The idle air control valve and the FITV are two different things. The FITV is typically below the throttle body. You will see the backing plate on it, it has two 8mm bolts on it. Remove the bolts to expose the plunger. Thread it back in, reassemble. Try that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't the FITV primarily for warmup? I know it can be bypassed because no all throttle bodies have it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emissionsux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Isn't the FITV primarily for warmup? I know it can be bypassed because no all throttle bodies have it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is correct. However, it creates a vacuum leak, just like the IACV.. Thats how it raises the idle. If the plunger backs out over time (and it will), then you will have a constant vacuum leak, even AFTER warm up, thus causing a surging or "hunting" idle.

 

So couldn't he just bypass the the FITV to see if it really is bad? All he actually needs is a union connector for the hoses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emissionsux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So couldn't he just bypass the the FITV to see if it really is bad? All he actually needs is a union connector for the hoses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you wanted to, yes.

 

any pictures on this??

 

If your talking about using a union to bypass the coolant going to the FITV, well that in and of itself will create the problem. HOT coolant is what expands the wax element to push the plunger up and seal off the air passage. Obviously, no coolant + not screwing the plunger up = hunting idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your talking about using a union to bypass the coolant going to the FITV, well that in and of itself will create the problem. HOT coolant is what expands the wax element to push the plunger up and seal off the air passage. Obviously, no coolant + not screwing the plunger up = hunting idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>


On an ITR throttle body, where is the FITV? I didn't see one on there. So if my throttle body doesn't have one, then in a sense I am running my coolant lines as a union already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your talking about using a union to bypass the coolant going to the FITV, well that in and of itself will create the problem. HOT coolant is what expands the wax element to push the plunger up and seal off the air passage. Obviously, no coolant + not screwing the plunger up = hunting idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I forgot about that. You are correct. You cannot bypass it. Not like you described at least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emissionsux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


On an ITR throttle body, where is the FITV? I didn't see one on there. So if my throttle body doesn't have one, then in a sense I am running my coolant lines as a union already.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ITR won't have it, its OBD-2. The OBD-2 cars compensated by changing the program in the ECU.. The IACV then acted as the FITV and hence it was removed. Its alright to "run the coolant lines as a union" so long as you remove the FITV. You need to eliminate the vacuum leak or else it will just remain open if it never heats up. Get it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ITR won't have it, its OBD-2. The OBD-2 cars compensated by changing the program in the ECU.. The IACV then acted as the FITV and hence it was removed. Its alright to "run the coolant lines as a union" so long as you remove the FITV. You need to eliminate the vacuum leak or else it will just remain open if it never heats up. Get it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...47969 My bad, do need to make a block off plate.

 

my apoligies guys. I really appretiate all the feed back and im glad that so many people are interested in this topic however i have already purchased a new FITV and that was the problem and yes i did look inside of the valve and noticed that the white screw style plunger was way too far out which was causing my problem but i also notice that everything was pretty rotten inside. I replaced it, flushed and replaced the thermostat for my radiator and replaced a couple hoses as well. It runs so much smoother now and im off on the quest to find answers to other problems now. So again thank you so much to everyone that posted in ways to help.

Looking for help with leak probs, electrical probs, and basic questions and comments. pm me if i can accept or im me at FrqNasTAnarchist or CustomTeggy44. Thanks.

 

does your motor have a knock sensor??? if so mine does this because my knock sensor isn't hooked up