I have been looking for a solution to my problem for about a week. I can't seem to pin point my issue. Maybe, hopefully someone has seen this happen and tell me it's something super simple that I'm just overlooking. Now I have a 2000 civic ex. I had a d16y7 and rewired for the 3 wire iacv. The single had an oil leak I didn't bother to look into fixing and finally decided to go to 2 cams ^.^ ...

I bought a b20b from JDMEngineDepot.com. it came to my house fairly quickly. I think it took about 3 or 4 days. NJ to MA. I switches to a used LS manifold and I used the B20 injectors with the ls grommets or something like that. I have no fuel leaks. I also used the B20 fitv because the ls one was so old the 8mm bolts snapped and that plastic donut screw wouldn't budge. I cleaned the iacv (yes I did re wire back to 2 wire iacv.) I used the b20b dizzy and cut my harness and color matched the wires.

Now I uploaded a video of the car started. She idles rough. Not fluctuating crazy up and down but high. And when I hit the throttle slow it climbs alright and on the rpm fall there is a popping in my exhaust.... or open header. When I hit the throttle faster it's pops on the upand down. On the 1st occasion i tried to drive, she died as soon as i tried to reverse and would not start. On the 2nd occasion, I went down my street turned around then had no power and couldn't make it back up my slight hill on my street. Next day I put single cam spark wires and drove up the hill in 1st then in 2nd she started spitting and losing power. I drove down. The street after replacing a radiator someone sold me claiming to be brand new but had a leak. I love how people are pos. And I got less than a quarter mile from my house and she lost power and stalled herself and refused to start up. My boy "towed" me with his EP3 and a seat belt lol. Fitv was cleaned after the second attempt, seems that it made no different. The car will almost always start cold but never warm . Today I I covered the hole leading to the iacv and it probably dropped rpm approx 200, very slight, based on sound. But did nothing to rectify the back fire I'm hearing.

Now I'm running a s300 v3 with the stock b20 calibration only thing I did was invert the purge I think because it said most obd2 needs it. That made no difference. Only codes are vtec obv and speed sensor? ... I think . Also I only have a secondary o2 plugged in because there is no bung for the primary ... I think I've covered everything. Here is the link. Someone please help me out.

https://youtu.be/gsn1PjdwI_M

 

...what is the issue?

You tell us what car you have, and what engine you are putting in, but you mention no problems or issues...

 

Anyone?

 

Bump

 

Also my hondata app says I'm at 36 degrees ign timing

 

Take a picture of the inlet side of the fuel rail where the fuel feed line is attached. My fear is you are fuel starving the engine by using a '96-00 fuel feed line with an LS fuel rail.

 

Anything guys? I just had my ecu checked out. Brought it back to the guy who sold it to me and he ran it in his CRV for me

 

I am indeed using my stock fuel line on the ls rail. So I should go and get a fuel feed from an integra? What is the difference between the 2?

 

The '92-95 Civic/'94-01 Integra fuel feed line has a larger diameter opening on the front side of the banjo fitting at the fuel rail end to allow fuel to flow out into the pulse dampener and then into the fuel rail at the END of the threaded male post. Also, you will see that the washer that goes on the outside of the banjo fitting at the rail end is larger in diameter and has 4 raised points (like squared off teeth) equally spaced around the center of it, allowing the washer to be centered on the fuel rail feed post and creating 4 equal gaps around the perimeter to match the drilled openings in the fuel pulse dampener.

The '96-00 fuel feed line has the same size openings front to back and uses two identical washers... and the threaded male post on the end of the fuel rail has HOLES drilled through the middle of it to allow fuel to come into the rail without entering from the very end... and that is why there is a 17mm square-headed nut at the end.

Also be sure and check for a small washer smashed into the inside of the fuel pulse dampener if you were in fact using the wrong fuel feed line... sometimes they end up wedged inside and cover up the openings (small holes) for fuel to pass, and then you still have a problem.

 

So YES... go and get an Integra (or '92-95 Civic) fuel feed line. Don't forget the washers and the fuel pulse dampener as well. Watch the order in which you remove everything so that it can be put back in the proper order.

 

Thank you JR on the fuel line tip. It definitely sounds a lot better but it still idles high and only starts cold. It started it up. Pulled the fuel fuse. Switched the feed lines. Started it up again. There was spits at first then it cleaned up and sounded smooth. Revs up and down pretty smooth. Then when I blocked the hole to the iacv it went to a lower smooth idle for about 2 or 3 seconds then sputters and stall.

 

Pretty sure line was installed correctly. Crush washer against the rail, banjo, washer with the openings then the damper.