Jason kiDD

Well still not getting vtec for some reason, however I got no CEL codes at the moment. I do know that as soon as you put the key in the on position like 30 seconds later the coolant fan turns on and doesn't ever turn off after that.. I have already changed the Coolant sensor by the thermostat and the thermostat itself and the same thing happens...
Would this cause me to go into some sort of same mode?? I know there is another coolant temp sensor by the distributor, should I change that one as well??

Any help is greatly appreciated..
Did search, and everything else is in working order..
Rev limit currently at 6.5k RPMs

poison

I don't believe there is another coolant sensor...that is the sending unit to tell you on your gauge cluster how hot your coolant is. So replacing that expensive lil thing won't do much unless it says you are always hot or cold on your gauge cluster.

Coolant sending units usually cost around $25 for that little pos thing, and they never usually go out on you anyway since they are spring loaded in there to send to you what the coolant temp is.

Going into safe mode, there must be a code

Have you tried to see if there is an problem from the wiring from the ECU to the CEL?

I have tried finding everywhere and can't remember the ECU pin-out for the check engine light grr.

Once I find it, put a test light to it and see if it lights up.

I believe it's D22, since that is the wire that goes to the service connector.


[Modified by poison, 10:49 AM 11/27/2002]

LB CRX

i dont know if this is the same for your car but there should be a sensor in the back of the block by the knock sensor i believe. its like coned shaped. if its unplugged, or the neg and the pos wires are touching, the fan will constantly stay on without giving off any ecu codes. i used this method to keep the engine a little cooler. that really has nothing to do with your vtec not working. did you try to check the vtec when the car was cold, running with hardly any gas, havent had an oil change in a while? those little things can keep it from engaging. good luck

Jason kiDD

If you look closely on all lude engines there are two coolant sesnsors. One is located by the thermostat (15) the other on the head (16) which is next to the temperature sending unit for the guages..

And trust me there is no code. I had plenty before but took care of them one by one so I know that the CEL is working. Checked the solenoid and its giving me continuity.. (Gonna recheck the ground tonight but I figure if it wasnt grounded properly I should still get CEL)

The only reason I know I am in safe mode is because of the fuel cut-of @6.5k. Oil level is good, car is properly warmed, coolant level is good. VSS is operational..

Last night after punching it I did get a CEL code but it read (21) and I was like what the hell is that.. Might have misread it for (12) EGR but it disappeared soon as the car was turned off...

Walbro fuel pump with FPR set at 35psi.. Will probably bring it back up to 38psi since I only got that code after I lowered fuel pressure..

Any ideas?? hehe

poison

well damn...there is 2. lol

and code 21 is vtec solenoid valve.

punch it again lol

Jason kiDD

Oh **** word... I just glanced quickly in my Accord manual this morning and saw that there was no 21 listed but silly me its not a vtec car being its a 4th gen manual.. So damn at least now I am getting somewhere.. I will definately check the ground wire and see if its grounded properly. I may or may not have good news later on tonight..

As for the plug wire on the back. The only I know that is near the rear of the block is the knock sensor & Oil sensor.. Which one are you referring to?

poison

#16 is the coolant temp sending unit. that's what i was referring to.

your vtec is definitely not wired right

poison

and fan being on all the time, what radiator are you using? are you using a dual core radiator?

Jason kiDD

Dual radiator with slim fan. Why what does that matter??

Jason kiDD

Well I replaced 15 already and I will replace 16 this weekend.. I will again recheck the ground wire for the solenoid and see what is up from there.. hehe Excitement is back again..

poison

just wondering to see if the radiator is cooling off the coolant fast enough with a bigger motor

Jason kiDD

Yeah please with that fast as slim fan my motor takes like 15 minutes to warm up and when warm its still about a little below half. That radiator cools down the engine fine without any problems. Which radiator are you using??

And what is vtec solenoid hooked up again on the ECU side, D6 or A4? For some reason my two diagrams have different oppinions.

Jason kiDD

And I guess its A4 if I am reading my manual right?

AND HERE IS THE MISLEADING DIAGRAM..




[Modified by Jason kiDD, 7:06 PM 11/27/2002]

poison

Solenoid A4

Oil pressure D6

poison

yep that is right...

and I am using a C&R racing aluminum dual core radiator...

takes FOREVER for it to warm up

zero probs with coolant

tinkerbell

OK, there are 3 coolant sensing bits:

1. the ECT sensor - for the ECU to know the coolant temp. (no. 16 on diagram)
2. the gauge sensor - for the the driver to know the coolant temp (no.14 on diagram)
3. the radiator fan switch - which is a temprature switch that closes the radiator fan circut when it gets to a certain temprature, switching it on (no. 15 on diagram)

it is no. 15 on the diagram that is keeping your fan on all the time. make sure it has not been bypassed...

on earlier models this sensor was on the back of the block.

(on really earlier models(83-87) it was part of the radiator)

anyways.

i hope you got the VTEC wires sorted...

t..

poison

very nice input t

Jason kiDD

Thanks and that is what I was told also. I was always getting a (14) CEL code and when I replaced the sensor @ location 15 then it went away however the fan still stayed on all the time.. So I thought that was weird. I still have the sensor for location 16 so I figure I will still change it because if its messed up then the ECU will get screwy temperature readings and think that maybe the car is still cold when it is in fact warm. Also probably disabling Vtec..

And yeah my wiring was wrong. Switched those two wires however still nothing. So I am going to change that sensor once it gets a little warmer outside and see what is up from there.. Might as well.. (Fricken 25 degrees outside today)

satan_srv

Do you have a V-AFC? Just wondering...we had some funky stuff with no codes but a short redline and it turned out to be V-AFC wiring..


And whoa whoa whoa....what ECU are you running????


[Modified by satan_srv, 3:54 PM 11/28/2002]

Jason kiDD

Nah no VAFC. I am going to take apart the vtec wiring again and see if there is anything amiss. Since it was cold today I didnt do anything though, hopefully tomorrow will be a little better. I will also change out the other sensor and see if that does anything..

Also how is your gas mileage. As for now my tank seems to be going really really fast. I am only gettig like 130 miles to the tank on the civic. I know that the walbro pump adds pressure but I lowered static psi to around 35psi to compensate for that..

satan_srv

What ecu are you running? I think some of your pinouts are not right.

Jason kiDD

p13 ECU. Yeah I messed up do to an improper diagram. I will redo the vtec wires today and let you all know what is up from there.

poison

damn, even with spoon chip, i am getting like 30-32 mpg and well over 300 mi to the tank. that's if i drive it nice, if i race alot, etc., i get about 25-26....still no where close to 130.

but then again, i want the fuel pump badly.

Jason kiDD

Well this is the first couple of time that I am driving around the car as you know so its all still kinda new to me in the eg body. I will adjust the airflow to max and see if that takes away from some of the gas guzzling effect. And remember I have a CX so my tank is only but 9-10 gal I believe..

satan_srv

Here are the P13 pinouts...

I see a reference to A4 above...that's injector #4!!!

Contact Color Desc.
A1 brn Injector #1
A2 yel Injector #4
A3 red1 Injector #2
A4 grn/yel VTEC Solenoid Valve
A5 blu Injector #3
A6 or/wht HO2S heater coil
A7 grn/blk1 PGM-FI Main Relay coil
A8 grn/blk2 Shorted to A7
A9 blk/blu IAC Valve
A10 -
A11 red2 EGR Control Solenoid
A12 blu/red Condenser Fan Relay
A13 blu/wht MIL
A14 -
A15 red/blu A/C Clutch Relay
A16 wht/grn Alternator
A17 pink IAB Solenoid Valve
A18 -
A19 wht Intake Control Solenoid Valve
A20 red/grn EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A21 yel/grn1 ICM
A22 yel/grn2 Shorted to A21
A23 blk1 GND
A24 blk2 GND
A25 yel/blk PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
A26 blk/red VTEC Pressure Switch (GND)

B1 yel/blk PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
B2 brn/blk GND
B3 -
B4 -
B5 blu/blk To A/C Switch
B6 -
B7 -
B8 red/grn PSP Switch
B9 blu/red Starter Cut Relay
B10 orn2 VSS
B11 orn3 CYP
B12 wht CYP
B13 orn/blu TDC
B14 wht/blu TDC
B15 blu/grn CKP
B16 blu/yel CKP

D1 wht/yel Battery
D2 grn/wht1 Brake Switch
D3 red/blu KS
D4 brn/wht SCS
D5 -
D6 lt blu or lt grn VTEC Pressure Switch
D7 lt grn/red Data Link Connector
D8 -
D9 wht/red ALT
D10 grn/blk ELD
D11 red/blk TP Sensor
D12 wht/blk EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D13 yel/blu ECT Sensor
D14 wht HO2S Sense
D15 red/yel IAT Sensor
D16 -
D17 wht/blu MAP Sensor
D18 -
D19 red/wht EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D20 yel/wht TP Sensor
D21 blu/wht MAP Sensor
D22 grn/wht2 TP Sensor