Fuster_Cluck

I tried all day to wire my secondaries up in my Eg/GSR.

The car would not start because the 15amp ECU fuse was blown. Still can't get the secondaries to work.

<FONT SIZE="4">WHAT I TRIED SO FAR:</FONT>

1) Black IAB wire to B1 at obd1 p72 ECU - blew the 15amp ECU fuse
2) Black wire to junction power harness - blew the same fuse again ***This was splicing in really close to the shock tower. I spliced in right near the IAB harness under the IM and ran it back to the junction power harness and the fuse did NOT blow.

93 Civic Cx
98 GSR motor (usdm)
OBD1 p72ECU


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 7:02 PM 6/23/2003


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 9:00 AM 6/25/2003

poison

You hear the fuel pump turn on?

The CEL go off after 2 seconds or stay on?

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You hear the fuel pump turn on?

The CEL go off after 2 seconds or stay on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ended up being the ECU fuse that was blown because I had the ground tapped in at B1 on my ECU.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ended up being the ECU fuse that was blown because I had the ground tapped in at B1 on my ECU.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew it

Tap into the A25 or power junction harness.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I knew it

Tap into the A25 or power junction harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tapped into the power junction harness as you can see in the pic. Now the car won't start.

Here's a pic:




Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 6:35 PM 6/23/2003


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 6:35 PM 6/23/2003

poison

You removed the cap, and you need that cap in. Otherwise there is no completed circuit to the other sensors.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You removed the cap, and you need that cap in. Otherwise there is no completed circuit to the other sensors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whoops! I wired it in with the cap on and about to go and fire her up

Be right back!

BACK: Blew 2 fuses again This f**kin' sucks

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whoops! I wired it in with the cap on and about to go and fire her up

Be right back!

BACK: Blew 2 fuses again This f**kin' sucks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, something is shorting out. Using an OBD2 motor, with an OBD1 ecu, the OBD1 ecu requirs a 12v source and the A17 pinout.

Try completely disconnecting the IAB and see what happens. You have a short somewhere.

Try also grounding it. This is where IAB **** gets confusing. But we'll get it

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok, something is shorting out. Using an OBD2 motor, with an OBD1 ecu, the OBD1 ecu requirs a 12v source and the A17 pinout.

Try completely disconnecting the IAB and see what happens. You have a short somewhere.

Try also grounding it. This is where IAB **** gets confusing. But we'll get it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it possible that there is another wire spliced in under the loom / electrical tape to this wire which I believe is a ground? I spliced in close to the shock tower and maybe need to splice in where the wire comes out the IAB. I've already made 3 cuts in wires that turned out to do nothing right at this point

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is it possible that there is another wire spliced in under the loom / electrical tape to this wire which I believe is a ground? I spliced in close to the shock tower and maybe need to splice in where the wire comes out the IAB. I've already made 3 cuts in wires that turned out to do nothing right at this point </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's possible, also could be just a simple mistake made, or even 1 wire just brushing up on another wire or even the chassis that is shorting out causing the ECU fuse to blow.

From what I've hooked up though, you hook up the black wire to the Yel/Blk wire and the other wire to the A17 pinout with an OBD2 GSR into an OBD1 P72.

You definitely have a short somewhere.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's possible, also could be just a simple mistake made, or even 1 wire just brushing up on another wire or even the chassis that is shorting out causing the ECU fuse to blow.

From what I've hooked up though, you hook up the black wire to the Yel/Blk wire and the other wire to the A17 pinout with an OBD2 GSR into an OBD1 P72.

You definitely have a short somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to splice in to the black wire right at the IAB and see what happens.
Probably do this in the morning. I don't feel like messing with the car anymore tonight. Already missed the gym.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm going to splice in to the black wire right at the IAB and see what happens.
Probably do this in the morning. I don't feel like messing with the car anymore tonight. Already missed the gym. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will also check Helms and see what the configuration is to confirm as well.

Fuster_Cluck

I spliced the black IAB wire right near the harness under the IM and ran it to the junction power harness on the drivers side tower. Car started right up with NO blown ECU fuse. Hopefully this is it. Haven't driven her yet. I'll take her out in a few.....

BACK (with good news):

I took her out to the highway and couldn't tell / hear the secondaries opening. Drove back home and had my bro rev the motor to 6k+. While he did this I used my Coolpic3100 and got video. Secondaries did open so I guess everything is

on me for all the much appreciated help!


I'll upload the vid to the web as soon as I find out how I do so


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 9:43 AM 6/25/2003


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 9:43 AM 6/25/2003

DaiJekBok

All you have to do to test the IAB is to watch the diaphragm while someone starts the car. The little arm will be in the "down" position until the car is started, at which time it will move up. If it works here, the line is getting vacuum which means the IAB solenoid is wired right which means it will open at 5800 RPM. You will hear it happen much better if you drive in a higher gear.. in 1st you whip right past that RPM and won't be able to hear it.

Jonathan_ED3

Glad that you got it figured out.

Word of advice to everyone though when doing any type of wiring work like this.

Always pull both ECU fuses before you start ANY wiring work.

If for whatever reason you have the wrong fuse size in (on accident maybe) and let's say it's of too high an amperage (maybe on accident again), and you screw something up, guess what? It goes right through the fuse and straight to your ecu. Not fun!

Always take out the fuses before starting any work