Car not starting..electrical issue
11-02-2007, 11:58 AM
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Car not starting..electrical issue
sup guys, i have a obd1 gsr swap in my 94eg hatch and the car does not want to start. My timing is right on, im getting fuel, and i've been testing the spark and its not constant. the best way to explain is sometimes it sparks and sometimes it doesnt.. 
i've been testing the spark for every cylinder. Dizzy is brand spanking new out the box. when the key is on III position to start, the brake light in the cluster goes on. its not brake fluid or the sensor. IT seems like a ground or electrical issue. I've checked my thermostat ground, tranny to chassis ground, and valve cover ground. Nothing. Somebody please help me.
after trying to start the car i get a humming noise coming from the iac. sounds electrical to me.
Modified by 3ghandles at 4:18 PM 11/2/2007
i've been testing the spark for every cylinder. Dizzy is brand spanking new out the box. when the key is on III position to start, the brake light in the cluster goes on. its not brake fluid or the sensor. IT seems like a ground or electrical issue. I've checked my thermostat ground, tranny to chassis ground, and valve cover ground. Nothing. Somebody please help me.after trying to start the car i get a humming noise coming from the iac. sounds electrical to me.
Modified by 3ghandles at 4:18 PM 11/2/2007
11-02-2007, 12:27 PM
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well to start with the valve cover ground is in the wrong place.
other than that... check the coil and ignitor. Try different plugs and plug wires if you have the ability to do so. (a new distributor doesn't mean it's good, I've pulled several bad ones from the box)
other than that... check the coil and ignitor. Try different plugs and plug wires if you have the ability to do so. (a new distributor doesn't mean it's good, I've pulled several bad ones from the box)
11-02-2007, 12:37 PM
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moved valve cover ground..nothing. I've seen people who dont even have a valve cover ground and its definetely not the problem. Tried new plugs and oem wires, nothing.
11-02-2007, 12:56 PM
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sorry about the valve cover ground... sort of an inside joke, H-T bandwagon style. 
(I need more sleep or caffeine)
spark: ECU-ignitor-coil-rotor-cap-wires-plugs-ground
follow the path and you will find the issue.
double check the wires in the distributor, I've seen them bent a little and rubbing on the case, which caused random cutting out.
did the car run perfectly before the swap?
(I need more sleep or caffeine)spark: ECU-ignitor-coil-rotor-cap-wires-plugs-ground
follow the path and you will find the issue.
double check the wires in the distributor, I've seen them bent a little and rubbing on the case, which caused random cutting out.
did the car run perfectly before the swap?
11-02-2007, 01:24 PM
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actually i had another gsr setup in there obd2 and was running perfect till it got stolen, they took the head and a couple random parts. (they cut the engine wiring harness) stole the ecu etc. i bought a obd1 head, dizzy,obd1 gsr ecu, and obd1 gsr engine harness. havent got to run since rebuild. Actually the first time i ever tried to crank it it started in low idle for about a second and and a half and then died. I tried to start it again and i was getting a loud backfire from the intake. when to started again another backfire (loud popping sound) coming from intake i can see the flame color thru the filter. after that it hasnt shown any signs of wanting to start again. it doesnt even have popping while cranking. just pure starter is all you hear.
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11-02-2007, 01:57 PM
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and starting at the timing belt
the only other way the engine could backfire that bad is if the timing belt is way off, or there is a spark in the intake manifold.
you don't have your EVAP purge and IAT plugs switched do you?
12
and starting at the timing belt
the only other way the engine could backfire that bad is if the timing belt is way off, or there is a spark in the intake manifold.
you don't have your EVAP purge and IAT plugs switched do you?
11-02-2007, 02:06 PM
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nope, everything is plugged in correctly. i've done my timing about....26 times (just to make sure). I have that damn brake light in the instrument that goes on in pattern with the ignition switch on III (to start) and humming noise coming from the intake manifold the middle lower back.not the normal humming noise from when you first open the switch, a continuios humming sound that wont go off untill switch is closed or passenger side engine harness unpugged. i know this is causing my car not to start and i cant find the problem. its like a short or bad ground or something. what do you think? i had a problem with a bad tranny ground before and my car woudnt start. but im tired of checking/swapping ground cables and nothing. once the key is on III position the light comes on. wich isnt normal and it means something's going on.
11-02-2007, 02:22 PM
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the only way that the brake light in the cluster will light up is if the green/red wire is switched to ground, either by the emergency brake of the brake fliud level sensor.
and it's an isolated system, I don't see how it would stop the car from starting.
unplug the IACV and see if the humming stops. There is a good chance that's the noise. Which after trying to start the car like you have been, the ECU is trying to raise the idle...
and it's an isolated system, I don't see how it would stop the car from starting.
unplug the IACV and see if the humming stops. There is a good chance that's the noise. Which after trying to start the car like you have been, the ECU is trying to raise the idle...
11-02-2007, 02:28 PM
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gotcha, for me to get the humming sound i have to crank the car for the first time (after that humming noise kicks in and stays on) i leave the switch open if you close it stops till next time you crank and so on. (gotta leave the switch open to hear continous humming) with switch open and humming going on i unplug the iacv and it stops. connect it back on and you got humming...lol
11-03-2007, 12:09 PM
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somebody please help, its been $2,000 that i havent enjoyed. i have fuel, double checked spark and its good, timing is on. obd1 gsr harness, obd1,ecu. its all plug and play somebody help please.
11-04-2007, 06:57 AM
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reading the plugs and a compression test.
Try starting it, then check the plugs, if the plugs are dry, you're not actaully getting fuel.
If they are wet then it's not fuel.
Try starting it, then check the plugs, if the plugs are dry, you're not actaully getting fuel.
If they are wet then it's not fuel.
11-04-2007, 11:05 PM
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Re: (Relic1)
My buddy is having this same problem ATM, he has a newly built engine, he got it to start but it threw out a lot of smoke, 2nd time, it would only rev to 2K but they had the wrong dizzy, they needed an obd1 dizzy, so they converted the harness, and now it doesn't want to start! We have spark, fuel pressure is reading 20, so I guess only thing now is to check the compression, and he upped to high compression pistons. It is really annoying spending all the time and money on it, and not getting it to start up!
