Capabilities of the c5
Wut up, i was jus wonderin, keepin it all motor, what would the performance capabilities be for a b18c5 in a 5th gen hatch. Would it be wise to switch anything such as the head or intake mani for any reason? And after, when i have enough dinero to make it blown and sprayin, what are the possibilities in reference to times and hp?? I'm really tryin to soak up all this info so any would be a great help, thanx alot!
First of all, my suggestion would just be to lurk and read for a while rather than posting such a broad topic right out of the box. The more specific your questions, the more specific and helpful the answers tend to be.
Anyway, If you're thinking about a turbo, I wouldn't waste the money on a B18C5. I'd get a B16 or a B18B. You'll make just as much power. The money you save will pay for the turbo kit... but not everything you'll need to make it run right (safe).
Anyway, If you're thinking about a turbo, I wouldn't waste the money on a B18C5. I'd get a B16 or a B18B. You'll make just as much power. The money you save will pay for the turbo kit... but not everything you'll need to make it run right (safe).
thanx for the reply. I was wondering, why would a turbo on the c5 be a waste. I don't understand why this wouldn't be a wise choice if the c5 makes more power than a b16. Please explain to me so i don't make the wrong choice, i'm jus tryin to go fer the best performance, blown er not. so what would be the best for me?
This should be a long response, but I'll give you the cliff notes.
1) A B18C5 swap will run you 5k plus (often over 6k)
2) A B16 or B18 will be several thousand less
3) The B18C5 is a high compression engine (makes it hard to turbo)
4) Let's say your target wheel HP is 250. All 3 of these engines can make that power. Realistically, anything over that isn't very usable on the street, and especially on street tires.
5) If you want to get crazy and go for 300+ HP, then you'll probably need to do quite a bit of work rebuilding the bottom-end to hold the power. In that case, it doesn't matter which engine you buy as you can choose your specs during the rebuild.
Obviously, the B18c5 is a better engine in stock form. It also has a better tranny, with a LSD in it. But, as the "best" honda/acura B series engine, it's priced at a premium. As I stated before, you could get a B16 and a turbo kit for what a B18C5 costs. I all depends on what you're after though.
The best advice I can give you is to be patient and do your research. Read all the information you can get your hands on until you can start to differentiate the real facts from the "messageboard myths". Finally, figure out what your budget is and plan to spend 25% less than that. There will be a ton of unexpected expenses that come up along the way. If you've spent all your cash on an engine, your car will be sitting in the driveway useless.
later
1) A B18C5 swap will run you 5k plus (often over 6k)
2) A B16 or B18 will be several thousand less
3) The B18C5 is a high compression engine (makes it hard to turbo)
4) Let's say your target wheel HP is 250. All 3 of these engines can make that power. Realistically, anything over that isn't very usable on the street, and especially on street tires.
5) If you want to get crazy and go for 300+ HP, then you'll probably need to do quite a bit of work rebuilding the bottom-end to hold the power. In that case, it doesn't matter which engine you buy as you can choose your specs during the rebuild.
Obviously, the B18c5 is a better engine in stock form. It also has a better tranny, with a LSD in it. But, as the "best" honda/acura B series engine, it's priced at a premium. As I stated before, you could get a B16 and a turbo kit for what a B18C5 costs. I all depends on what you're after though.
The best advice I can give you is to be patient and do your research. Read all the information you can get your hands on until you can start to differentiate the real facts from the "messageboard myths". Finally, figure out what your budget is and plan to spend 25% less than that. There will be a ton of unexpected expenses that come up along the way. If you've spent all your cash on an engine, your car will be sitting in the driveway useless.
later
exactly Jeff.. The bottom-line is that if you are going to be doing any engine work at all, the c5 is a waste of money.. Due to the ported head, extra-strength valvetrain and bottom-end (and a little more), since all of this is going to be changed (recommended for any moderate setup), then as JeffS said, go with the cheaper blocks..
I'm using a GSR block to get me to 11s "safely" in an EK hatchback.. So far with an absolutely stock top- and bottom-end with a turbo at .4 bar (6.1psi) I was looking at low(er) 12s.. Good luck, but imo (and I'm sure everyone else will agree) that the b18c5 is not a good choice for a planned turbo setup..
[Modified by HKxBlur, 1:46 PM 4/30/2002]
I'm using a GSR block to get me to 11s "safely" in an EK hatchback.. So far with an absolutely stock top- and bottom-end with a turbo at .4 bar (6.1psi) I was looking at low(er) 12s.. Good luck, but imo (and I'm sure everyone else will agree) that the b18c5 is not a good choice for a planned turbo setup..
[Modified by HKxBlur, 1:46 PM 4/30/2002]
Ok. So the b16 or b18b is best for turbo? What's a b18b tho, that's not a gsr is it? if not is the gsr as good with a turbo as any other of the engines? and anything about the ctr engine? thanx
[Modified by STilLsAvIn4C5, 3:24 AM 5/2/2002]
[Modified by STilLsAvIn4C5, 3:24 AM 5/2/2002]
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