Where can i get cable to hydro conversion for a 89 CRX at the cheapest price? And how much do they usually retail? Thanks.

 

I don't think you can....

 

why would u want that

 

There is not a company that makes it yet. but talk to the member mackymcg

Here is a little write up he wrote for it:

I wrote a little rough guide on converting the 88-91 civic to use a hydraulic transmission. I've been emailing it to people but I think I should post it now and ask if anyone sees any problems with it. Below the guide are some images I took of my tranny mount, it is a modified HCP mount, and I used HCP for the rest of the mounts. Enjoy.
Installing a B-series hydraulic transmission into a 88-91 Honda Civic/CRX

Author: Thomas McGovern
tom@tommcgphoto.com
mackymcg@hotmail.com
on honda-tech.com - mackymcg

I'm writing this because I am tired of many people on the internet saying a hydraulic transmission can't work in an ED/EF chassis or that it won't even fit. It fits, it can be done(with a little work), and I did it.

Issues, Precautions, Warnings, Etc.


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|IF YOU SCREW UP, IT IS YOUR OWN FAULT, NOT ME OR THE GUIDE, DO THIS ONLY IF YOU STAND THE TIME IT TAKES TO COMPLETE|
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- The first part of this guide should be done engine out, because the drilling of the hole through the firewall is at an angle where you want to be standing in the engine bay to enlarge it, plus the area where the hole has to be drilled is reinforced, so you have to be there for a while.

- This was done with all new parts from Honda/Acura, so I don't know what junkyard parts you get. All clutch items were from 1994+ Integra

- The engine mounts I used were HCP, because you have to weld on one of the mounts, I'll recommend HCP over Hasport, steel versus aluminium, unless you like welding onto aluminium

- Take the dash out and keep it out until you are positive the transmission works. Test drive the car with no dash I mean, this will probably the most technical part of the swap and you do not want to rip everything else out because you have a defective clutch pedal (even buying brand new I got two defective pedals in a row)

First, my car was a 1991 Civic HB STD and I installed a 2001 B18C5w/ITR tranny, I used 2001 ITR Axles, installed a ITR radiator, ITR fuse boxes, etc. I converted the entire car to OBDII so I don't know what ECU or distributor you can use, what wires need to be hooked together, what radiator hoses, but the good people at https://honda-tech.com can help you if you need assistance with those things.

My parts list:
-Clutch reservoir,
-Clutch pedal assm incl. cylinder( from 94+ Integra)
-CLutch lines, 2 different sizes
-step down for the clutch line (see https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=161021 in fuse box pic on top for this)
-Custom passenger side tranny mount (I modified a HCP mount for a cable tranny, involved cutting the 2 bosses of the underside of the mount [they are already on the transmission] and welding on a new piece of metal to reach the third mounting bolt position)

Chassis work :
I don't know why some people say that the tranny won't fit in the engine bay, I had no trouble getting it in.

- I first removed the dash and took out the entire pedal assm.(On 91 civic, gas/brake and clutch are all one piece)
- Cut the clutch pedal off the assm and remove the cable from the car
- FIgured out to mount new clutch assm. to top of firewall, drill holes, test fit pedal for ergonomics(without cylinder on, it gets in the way for now), remember later on to bolt top of bolts(at opening for wiper assm.), or pedal will flex alot.
- This next step could have gone two ways
1. My way, removed venting for driver's side vent, this is one compromise I had to live with. Drilled hole through firewall and reinforcing on firewall so the end of the cylinder would be in the engine bay, and the clutch reservior would be in the engine bay as well, also drilling a hole through the lip on the firewall in the engine bay so the line going to the reservior would not be stressed by the position that the cylinder was coming out of the firewall.
2. Almost the same as above, but move clutch pedal forward a little and don't drill through firewall, keep reservoir under-dash, and only run clutch line through firewall. A little easier (drilling through the firewall took forever) but I don't like the idea of not being able to see the reservior, so the #1 option was for me.
- Using a pipe bender, route the line first to the step down ( should be behind the intake manifold mounted to the firewall) then to the transmission
- Fill the system, check for leaks(especially in the cylinder on the clutch pedal, it will leak onto the driver's carpet), bleed air out of the system, refill to proper level in reservoir, double-check all the pipe fittings, and fill the hole if you made one with silicon or something to keep the road noise out.
- I tested mine in my driveway by attempting to start up in every gear ( I know this wears the clutch a little, but better than finding yourself stuck in gear or with no gears at all) and then recheck the fluids.

I believe that's it, if there is anything else, feel free to email
Tom McGovern

Modified HCP mount -
http://www.tommcgphoto.com/hondatech/mount1.jpg
http://www.tommcgphoto.com/hondatech/mount2.jpg
http://www.tommcgphoto.com/hondatech/mount3.jpg
http://www.tommcgphoto.com/hondatech/mount4.jpg

 

I would be actually interested in one as well. I'm looking into getting a ITR engine for my crx. It would save some hassle and probably some money if I could just slap the type R tranny with LSD into the car.

 

you can get the same gearing cheaper just get a jdm S1 tranny

 

I want an LSD.....

 

why not just buy a good lsd like Quaife or somthing and put it in the S1 tranny

still may safe money

u pay 1200-1400bucks for a ITR tranny

get a S1 for 300-350 and LSD for 800bucks brand new $1100-1150 for a better tranny

 

Yeah, I've been hearing the ITR trannys cost that much lately, too. You might have a point. One less thing to worry about!