Ok thanks for the help. So would I need CRV bearings?

 

Well, my GSR engine has over 100k miles on it and I want something with more torque. I also want something with the potential to haul some serious ***. Another bonus is that I have some guy who wants to buy my GSR engine for more then I'm going to pay for my b20. Good deal if you ask me.

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to go with some high compression pistons and forged rods, get in a Z10 girdle, an AEM or Iceman cai, and maybe a skunk2 intake manifold. Later I'll do the fuel system, cams, and headers. That should be a low 13 second engine right there.

 

[QUOTE]I'm pretty sure that I'm going to go with some high compression pistons and forged rods, get in a Z10 girdle, an AEM or Iceman cai, and maybe a skunk2 intake manifold. Later I'll do the fuel system, cams, and headers. QUOTE]

Man you really need to do a LOT more research before you buy anything. You're planning on running high compression, but you want to wait to upgrade your fuel system? That's not being very logical if you ask me.

 

i agree completely.. you can sacrifice that motor if you take that route.. either build your gsr (which is a plenty capable motor) or REALLY research the b20 before you buy anything.. don't be so quick to "need" something.. take your time.. make sure this motor will last.. sure you talk about doing the swap and getting a bigger and "better" motor, but what if you do and that motor blows 2 months after you have it because you didn't take proper precautions or purchase the parts that the motor needs.. then what will you do?? will you be upset that you didn't build it right?? i know i would be..

i just don't get it.. everyone seems to think that b20's are the only worthwhile motors to build now.. don't forget how potent a nicely built 1.8L can be.. there's plenty of them runnin around that cross the line with a 12.xxx...

 

Well, this is all preliminary research. And, if you ask me, it's working pretty well. I'm getting good advice from people, and even the criticizing comments help to make me more cautious. Until I talk to my mechanic this is all just theory. If someone with practical experience says, "Upgrade your fuel system w/ hi-compression pistons," then I'm going to do it.

 

I'm building an LSVtec, do you guys think its worth the extra money for the C5 head, or should I just use a B16 head?

 

That's cool. I guess I'm just jealous that I don't even have a 1.8L like you do Dang b16!

 

Save up and try and get one I'm selling mine, but I doubt you're willing to pay what some moron near me is. I think I'm about to get offered $3k for a 100k+ GSR motor

 

Take it and run!! And don't point the poor sucker..er...buyer to this website any time soon either

 

stock b20z bottomend
stock b16a head w/ cam gears

I/H/E & a chipped p28

95 civic hb w/ full interior & gsr tranny

street tires on the 13" steelies

13.9 all day long w/ a dip into the 13.8's at 97-100 mph

Any ?'s & it was just a basic setup

Pete

 

What tranny would be better for a b20/vtec? GSR or Integra Type R? I would think that the Type R would be better since it has LSD but if a GSR tranny has LSD would it make it a better choice?

 

Hey pesty, any traction problems with that setup? Which model of hb is it? and what's your redline?

 

I never had any traction problems... but I never floored it either. I always launched at a1500-2000 rpms.

I had a 95 cx. 2380 lbs w/ me in it.

I shifted the engine at 7000 rpms while I was daily driving it. When I was at the dragstrip... 7800 rpms. That is where my curves fall off & it's a waste of engine & time to shift any higher. When I was road racing the engine, I would take it all the way up to 8200 which was my rev limiter.

Any more ?'s

Pete

 

is anyone running the Web springs and retainers? I was planning on running the Toda Spec B's, but according to Jeff at http://www.importbuilders.com, the Webs cannot handle anything over 12mm of lift. Is the Skunk2 a good choice for the Web valvetrain?

 

How did it sit with all the extra weight up front (or did you lower it anyway)?

How was the handling and braking (stock brakes?)?

Did you ever get it dyno'd?

You never floored it? You mean when you launched it, you would ease into it without dropping the clutch hard?

thanks,

d

 

I lowered it. I didnt do it the crappy way, either. I got GC & kyb agx. The GC had 220 & 180 springs, but I switched them out in favor 400 F & 450 R spring rates. Much better, but the rear agx didnt last but 6 mths w/ the higher spring rate in the rear. The fronts are fine. I lowered the front about 2.1 in & the rear 1.7 in for good rake.

Stock brakes were on for daily driving & drag racing at first. I only drag raced w/ the stock brakes cuz I could fit the 13" steelies up there. I went on to road racing it & got the fastbrakes kit & some 15" tires. MUCH better & needed for the road course. Needed to upgrade the booster & cylinder since the pedal was too mushy w/ the bigger teg calipers. Too much fluid to push w/ the lil cylinder & schtuff.

Dynos... let me get that link:
http://community.webshots.com/album/27984954HJzWSvsdsx

Pete 1 was my car untuned
Pete 2 was my car after tuning.

When I took off from a 2000 rpm launch, I slowly let the clutch out & when I knew it wasnt going to slip or spin my tires all to hell... I floored the **** out of it & it was on!!! That's what I meant by not flooring it. I just slipped my clutch w/ moderate throttle until I knew I could control it. 2.13 60 ft's on street tires arent all that bad... eh?

Any more ?'s

Pete

 

use a b16a head instead

 

why is everybody stuck on the block girdle - not necessary for NA apps! b16a head ala Portflow will really give you good perf. for the money, use the Type R intake valves for superior flow and use a del sol dohc vtec mani if you can....

very good cam for the buck is the mentioned ITR ....

fuel pump , etc. already mentioned with piston choice prob best for the street @ 11.5:1 even thougheverybody clowns and tries to say 12.5 and 13, etc...

 

pete, did you upgrade the fuel supply too?

 

Does anyone know the cost of Probe pistons and Proble connecting rods? I'm planning on using them, but I can't find anything. Anyone know what compression they will raise my engine to?

 

I got my probe rods for $385 local pick up at http://www.importbuilders.com . When I asked about the probe pistons they said it wasn't available yet.

 

I had the stock Cx pump in & it couldnt handle it. I upgraded to a low pres Walboro & FPR. Everything went fine after that.

Pete

 

Is there anywhere I can purhase or read about the walboro fuel pump online?

 

http://www.vfaq.com/pump-Walbros.html

Bookmark it!!!

Pete

 

your gonna spend $3000+ to run 13's??? and thats $3000 after the CRVTEC swap??? thats one expensive 13 second car.

I'd get a H22 and run slicks. you'd hit mid 13's easily on the stock motor.