I'm installing a crvtec in a couple of months, but I'm having trouble deciding what parts to put on when I first get the engine installed. Out of these 2 set-ups which would you choose?

1) Crvtec w/ AEM cai, skunk2 intake manifold, JDM 4-1 headers, and a Z10 girdle.

2) Crvtec w/ AEM cai, toda b spec cams, toda forged pistons, and a Z10 girdle.

Which do you think would be the fastest and the best for street driving? Thanks in advance.



[Modified by battyx, 10:07 PM 3/17/2002]

 

1 and 2 are totally different...if you go with 1 then what kind of cams will you use? If you go with 2 what intake manifold and header will you use? Also toda doesn't make pistons for a crv vtec. The highest bore they make is 82mm.

 

If I don't list it, then it's going to stay stock. I only have enough money to afford those parts. So if I get an intake, intake manifold, and headers, I'm going to have stock cams (b16) and pistons. I basically want to make as fast a crvtec as possible within my budget.

I just realized that Toda didn't make pistons in the right size a little while ago, but thanks anyway.

 

Ok, give us your budget and we'll go from there..If I were you, I'd go with some JE pistons, Eagle Rods, CTR cams, and a nice header. but you may not be able to afford that..Give us your budget.

 

CRV block - JE pistons 12:1 compression, eagle rods, GSR girdle
SI head - ITR cams, cam gears, aem intake, jdm 4-1 header, n1 exhaust

ez! but not cheap
200whp if your lucky like some others.

 

Ok, I've decided to work a little more and save up, so this is what I'm planning. I was up until 3 last night figuring out this list.

Costs:
-$**** for Crvtec engine including install
-$980 for JUN Stage 3 cams
-$700 for JUN valve springs and retainers
-$500 for JDM Type R 4-1 header
-$200 for Skunk2 adjustable cam gears
-$265 for Skunk2 Intake manifold
-$290 for Z10 girdle
-$180 for Iceman Cold Air intake

Total:
-$3115 + cost of engine & misc. charges (girdle hardware, etc...)

Hopefully I'll have the money by mid-summer. Then I'm going to save up for next summer and put in forged pistons/rods, p&p the head, upgrade the fuel system, and maybe do gears or a lightened flywheel. It's a lot of money, but I'm going to stick with the plan and get it in my gsr by late June.

 

so lemme get this right.. you're planning on running jun3's on stock crv pistons??

why are you in such a hurry to build this thing anyways? why not take your time and build it right??

and if you're really into saving money, go with a modded gsr girdle instead of the z10.. that'll save a bit of cash..


[Modified by bojangs, 9:59 PM 3/18/2002]

 

you should build your bottom end first...buy the pistons and rods etc... then later, buy the jun stuff. w/ the money you are spending on the jun stuff, you can build your bottom end. like what bojang's says, take your time and build it right.

 

So what bottom end products should I put in there to make it strong and reliable? What are the best performance pistons and rods for a crvtec? I want the car to be in the mid to low 13's and reliable. I don't want to spend more then $4500 on the motor. So doing all the bottom end work and then doing all the other bolt-ons I plan will cost a shitload, and most likely put me into the 12's. Anyway, if you had the same budget what would you do?

 

the thing is you're forgetting all the little stuff which DOES add up.. things like a timing belt, alternator and other accessory belts (if you're runnin em), water pump, oil pump, head bolts, intake/exhaust/tb/head gaskets, bearings, etc.. not to mention machine and assembly if you're not doing it yourself..

personally i'd concentrate on the bottom end first.. then work my way up.. look into je or wiseco for pistons.. as far as rods, eagle makes a nice set that should hold up fine in your case but they're not the "best" by far.. do you really need "the best" or just what will work best for you in your price range??

if all you want is 13's you could easily have it if you just spent a lil time and money on your current setup.. ****, turbo + slicks and you got it right there with money still left in your pocket.. or is your heart set on an na crvtec?

 

bojangs...what are some other rods to get besides eagle? I am building up a b20 myself and I plan to run JE pistons and Probe rods. What do you think? Also is there anywhere on the internet that lists every single thing I need to build a b20/vtec?

 

try probe pistons and rods. i heard they are good products and also pretty cheap. crower makes rods also, but they are expensive. check out http://www.crvtec.com for more info on parts.

 

Well, I already have an exact price for a basic crvtec engine + installation, so I know how much that's going to be.

What are good bottom end products that I should look at, and what hp/tq gains would they give compared to the bolt-ons I listed a few posts above?

The engine I have now had over 100k miles on it, and I'd like to start with another one. I like N/A over boosted or blown, and it's also original. Another thing that I like is if I decide to go further, the b20 set up has a lot more potential then a 94' b18 engine. Btw, thanks for these replys, it really is helping me out.

 

definetly do the block first PISTONS RODS GIRDLE.
i bet you'll run 13's just bolting it to the stock head.

then its your choice. Also JUN3's usually make power @8500+
i'd look into another cam if you don't intend to go there.

JUN2's will make the same power up until 8500, but the 3's will destroy above it
it will have more midrange too. Same with TodaB which have proven itself on honda-tech.
http://www.importreview.com - look at more dynos on what works.

 

i've never used probe rods so i can't speak about them from any experience.. i can say i've only heard good things tho!

as far as sites on the build, the process is identical to an lsvtec so any lsvtec site should give you the idea..

here's a few to get you started..
www.geocities.com/thelsvtec
www.angelfire.com/dc/lsvtec/2019.html
www.ee.ucla.edu/~davekim/lsvtec


[Modified by bojangs, 6:23 PM 3/19/2002]


[Modified by bojangs, 6:24 PM 3/19/2002]

 

^^

 

Well, I've looked at all the dyno charts on importreview.com and most of the engines are running JUN 3 cams. If I have a built bottom end I'll be able to shift much higher and that should make the JUN 3's more useful. I definately need to do more research though. Should I be going with hi-compression pistons? Any sites that show the exact part list of a well built crvtec?

 

Well I guess I can only throw in my two cents since I'm building one right now also. This is a very pricey build but since you already have the gsr (right?) then you have the tranny, t/body, motor mounts, shift linkage, and minor other things that cost more money. I'm assuming you're using those. Sell the block, and the head for more $$ and use the b16a head. Now like said before if you want 13's then all you "really" need are pistons (like 11.1 compression) and a stock b16a head and you'll prob hit it. But that will not be to wise so, for a good mid price start with the block. Eagle rods, & Endyn spec (Wiseco) pistons. Endyn offers mid and high compression applications. Mid compression is 11.2-11.9 to 1 while high is 12.5-14.1 If this is a daily driver then Mid's will be the better choice. Endyn might still have their $899 piston and eagle rods shipped sale. Probe is also a good choice from what I hear and cost effective. Check out http://www.importbuilders.com for more on that. Now you cand stop there, or go with GSR/ITR girdle(bridge) and modify your 3rd main cap, or go z10 motorsports. Since you have the gsr motor and you dont sell your block then you have your main cap bolts, windage tray, oil pick up and oil pan. With the gridle and rods and pistons, I'd say you'd have a solid block. Machine work for boring and honing (crank balance and inspect) shouldn't cost to much more. Still more money for bearings. Next the head, port work would increase hp with better flow but then more $$$. Hx Guy is running low 13's and hit a 12.9 with no head work to my knowledge, so that is up to you. ITR and CTR cams would be a good upgrade and cost effective. Stock b16a internals will work fine with them. Now with more aggressive cams, skunk2, Jun, Toda, which give better mid and high rpm hp gains, head internals and even lost motion assembly would be a factor to upgrade with higher rpms, lift, duration, $$$, also worring about piston valve clearances, (clay your motor to be sure) ARP head bolts would be a good idea. Up the fuel is needed with a 255lph fuel pump and 310cc Rc injectors and fuel regulator. ITR manifold or Skunk but bore the t/body to 64mm. An Ecu upgrade like hondata would be key $$$ or maybe a reprogramed to mugen specs would work. And as far as cam gears go, just try to get the best deal as possible since all serve the same purpose, skunks are nice. And if you really want a jdm itr header thats kinda price try a DC jdm header, and save some $$$. All other bolt ons look for the best deals, lighten flywheel,intake exhaust etc. Good luck and sorry for the long post, I just decided to post this long so other folks that might be interested in this build could get an idea for it. If I for some reason made a type-o or have a different opinion please share and not flame


[Modified by Gonzo, 12:21 AM 3/21/2002]

 

I am building a b20/vtec from scratch and I had a few questions to ask. What type of ARP products do I need to order? Can someone list exactly which bolts and from what car I need? Will I need to upgrade to a new fuel rail like a benen one or will a type r one work fine? For my build up my top end is pretty much going to be from a integra type r besides the cams, retainers, and valve springs. My bottom end will consist of a b20 block/b20 crank, resleeved block, bored out to a certain bore but I have decided yet, probe rods, JE pistons, and z10 girdle. For the Water pump and oil pumps are Type R and GSR's different? If so then I will buy the Type R one but if not I can save some mone with the GSR. Damn this build up is taking my money and time but it will be well worth it in about a month or so.

 

Thanks for the advice.

I have someone who might be buying my entire GSR engine for $1400. I've talked to a mechanic and he will be installing a basic cr-vtec setup (b20block/b16head) and nothing else for $1200. Anything else I want is added onto the $1200 price. So anyone who has suggestions for me I'm nothing but ears.

 

HIGH COMPRESSSION = MORE HP
PLZ USE HONDA BEARINGS WHEN U DO UR BOTTOM END....HOPEFULLY VTEC BEARINGS!!

http://www.crvtec.com/


[Modified by ALL_MOTOR_EK, 7:57 PM 3/20/2002]

 

For head bolts Maximus, go with ARP head bolts for a 94+ GSR. As far as what other type of ARP bolts would be rod bolts but if you get Eagle rods, they come with ARP rod bolts. Not sure about Probe. Not to sure how well a ITR fuel rail flows, haven't compared to gsr, b16a fuel rails, but a Benen, AEM, DC, etc. fuel rail is also needed for better fuel flow with the upped fuel pump and injector's.....I forgot to list that in my last post

 

Dude not to flame, but why don't you just rebuild the gsr motor since you seem like you don't have any idea of what you are getting into? You could do some 11:1 JE's, Eagle rods, new bearings and a timing belt for probably a little over 1K.

 

I just bought my probe rods today and they didn't come with anything but the rods. Are there any ARP bearings or should I just use ones off a vtec motor? I am going to get rc injectors but what fuel pump? Also I forgot to add that my head is going to be a b16 P&P by PYR. Do I still need to use the GSR headbolts? Does anyone here have a head done by PYR? What are your thoughts about PYR?

 

Honda bearings are the ONLY way to go......