fast2camciv

What trailing arms are you using? wagovan/civic hybrids? and what hub/bearing are you using? I plan on going 5 lug with my ej2 project (so wheels will swap between crv and civic) and my ej2 has drums in the rear so i've been trying to figure out which trailing arm/hub/bearing setup will be the best choice for the awd/5lug conversion.

and let me get this straight your using accord pass. side, auto axle...and it has the same inner as a CRV, but the outer joint will come off and be replaced by Integra? (arent the joints themselves interchangable? Like when people do h-swaps in civics and make custom axles...) you said something about machining integra splines on the accord outer, but arent the outer joints the same on accords/integra/civic?

also, was thinking about your hydro bearing in the TCD unit...I was looking over my TCD unit this weekend, and it dawned on me...with hydro activation, that means the clutch pack will be slipping a certain percentage, no matter what the driveshaft speeds, right? Wouldnt that cause exessive wear on the clutch pack because they will be engaged and slipping 100% of the time?

I like the design of the stock system, because under normal driving conditions the clutch's are disengaged.....and engage in low traction situations. but by getting rid of the pumps, it gets rid of the ability to engage only in low traction situations...and means the clutchs will be slipping 100% of the time.

Unless you have a provision for this?

oh and I measured how much the "pressure plate" moves (aprox.) from dis-engaged, to fully engaged...it seems to be about 2mm. I'm thinking a shim between the "guide plate" and the 1st floater plate might be the key to getting the stock system to apply more tq to teh rear wheels.

.005" shim between these two guys...


that basically pushes or preloads the discs all the time, so that under activation, they are still pushed the 2mm by the pressure plate, but are pushed together "harder" via the .005" shim, in theory, causing the percentage of slip to be less, and more tq to be transfered to the rear wheels.

"pressure plate"...






Sorry for dumping a bunch of pics in here that arent related to your build just trying to toss around some ideas lol...If you dont want them here, let me know and i'll edit them...

BTW, I uploaded some 40+ pics of the TCD unit last night...feel free to use them or reference them if you want.
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...en/TCD%20Unit/

88ED8

I am using 88-91 AWD Wago arms (the ones Jaker built) Right now I am experimenting to see if I can simply mount the RTA more foward rather than shortening the trailing arm. If that doesn't work or I don't like it then I'll cut and weld the trailing arms to shorten it and use the OEM RTA mounting points.

I am using CRV bearing assemblies with integra hubs bolted to wago hub/ trailing arm brackets.

I am going to use 94-97 Accord Driver side auto axle.
The inner joint of that ^ is identical to the inner on of the CRV passenger side axle.
Ordinary FWD Bseries axles are just a bit too short for the circlip to lock in on my rear diff.
The Auto Accords do not have a halfshaft thus the axle is super long, enough length to simply cut and respline for the integra outer to be put on.
So what I'll end up with is an Accord axle cut to lenght and resplined with an integra outer. That is the cheapest solution for rear axles.
Accords have the 36mm axle nut outer btw, so It has to be swapped out for the integra outer in my app.. However, your going 5 lug so you may need the larger outers.

Why would the clutch pack slip 100% of the time??
My plans is to remove the two pumps in the rear and fit a Hydro TO bearing in there, Tilton makes the perfect bearing for this...
With 0 pressure in the line the clutch pack will be disengaged or FWD, as pressure is increased the CP will start to engage untill xxpsi = full lock
That is my theory anyways.
The idea is to be able to launch the car with the rear clutch pack slipping to avoid the Tcase from breaking, (lets call it FWD with Rear assist) once the car is moving and the initial shock to the drivetrain from the launch and 1-2 shift is gone then I can fully lock the clutch pack and go beast mode down the track (Drag Racing) or around the courses (Road Racing) again this is all theory but don't see why it wouldn't work!

It's a wet clutch in the rear so I don't think it'll wear as fast as many people seem to think although much faster than it would in a OEM app.!
I have also thought about isolating the two sections in the rear and running a gear oil for the ring & pinion and a more ideal fluid for the clutch pack, maybe a oil cooler as well! I plan on running this car pretty hard and a car that'll hold up for a 24 hours sebring race would be nice!

Rear clutch packs can be bought used with the rear ends wich go for 300-400 and would only take about 15-20 mins or less to change out in my car, so them wearing out is not a big deal and can even be swapped out in the pits if need be!

Shimming is a good idea for your CRV app, it's a quick and easy mod. I'd like for you to do it and get back out there asap and lmk how it works out!
However another advantage of hydro bearing is that you can use a soleniod to activate the master cyl thus having one of the ECU's programable output to actively switch from slip to lock while going around a course. I plan on experimenting with the ECU and soleniods later, gunna keep it simple for now via lever in the car.

and feel free to post and discuss ideas and pics on here, half the reason for the lack of info on the RTAWD system is that no one talks about it..

88ED8

not yet..
nohomo??

thanks.

fast2camciv

I feel ya on the lack of rt4wd info...i've spent HOURS digging through google and random websites picking up bits here and there lol

I was basing my 100% engaged theory on just setting the pressure and forgetting about it. I figured you were going to use a lever of sorts (CNC Staging brake would work well here) But it just seemed like a pain to set/adjust pressure since you would need to let the pressure go when driving normal (or not, not exactly sure how these would react since they are a wet clutch...and they HARDLY wear in stock configuration, as im sure you've seen on the one you took apart.) Not knocking your idea's at all, just bouncing info around.....I like the idea of using a PWM solenoid to have the ecu set line pressure to the bearing....perfect way to set up "traction control" via the rear end (ABS sensors could prove handy here too!)

we have some shim stock here at work (I am a machinist by trade lol ) I just have to dig around for an un-used piece to cut some circles out of. might have to order a sheet. I'll try and have my TCD shimmed by the weekend for some results to mow over....

Thanks for the axle info btw....I thought those looked like Jakers trailing arms haha

MoreCowbell

Next time warn me. 56k took three hours to load first page. I dont have all day to surf the net dude!

88ED8

I plan on modifying a Ebrake lever as they have the clicking mechanism, it'll stay where I set it and easily be able to be released. I'm going to T the line from the master cyl. output to the -3AN line that runs to the bearing and put a pressure sensor at the Tee and have a bar graph to show FWD......Assist......AWD with a numerical value to show PSI in the system all this is going to be displayed on my RD1 screen so I can see whats the pressure looks like in the system at all times.

fast2camciv

I like your approach to it!

SiR_Chris

Any chance of a custom H2B oil pan along the way

Loving the work so far dude

88ED8

Most likely not.. I'm trying to talk to Reid @ KAIZENSPEED to maybe get one but he doesn't seem to be paying me much attention!

kp

A .005" shim is only reducing the plates travel distance by .13 mm. Is this really going to make a substantial difference? Did you mean .05"? .05" would equal 1.3 mm.

no-sol94

clean *** crx man...good build.

88ED8

Not much new but some parts did show up and I took a walk on the "test track" gunna be fun!!







Test fitting..

88ED8

Media blasted the rear diff housing, cleaned, base coat/ clear coat and installed the studs for the diff cover.
All thats left before the rear is complete:
-Blast, clean, and zinc coat the diff/ reassemble with ring gear then balance it.
-Finish the base plate that the hydro TO bearing is going to mount to & assemble the finished product.

fast2camciv

So fresh and so clean!! Nice work!

2fast4u831

very nice man!

hisnibs

Great to see someone else doing an H2B with a CRV tranny.
How close is it going to be getting a decent size DP between the transfer case and oil pan?

88ED8

I do not know how close the down pipe will be to the transfer case yet. The car is not even close to that stage.. I do know that I'm not even worried about that.

It's been bugging me for the longest if it's possible to get a LSD in the CRV trans, last time I tried to fit one in there it didn't work but then again that was back in 2005 when I didn't know anything about "making things work when they don't" :p

Anyways, the other night I took apart a F22 trans and compared it's guts with the CRV internals, long story short my CRV transmission is almost perfect inside (mint condition) and it's gunna be EASY to put a LSD in there!

1st

2nd

3rd

4th

5th & Rev.






Teaser, your looking at a stock F22 diff in a CRV trans..

fast2camciv

I've heard that crv trannies basically have f22/h22 gears in them...Im super stoked to see where you take this!!!

2fast4u831

NICE!!

shenrie

Fack! Wish i would have known that was an option when I had my gsr wagon. Nice work figuring that out though. Excited to see end result on this build.

88ED8

It's not a sure thing yet, I still have to do some measurements and figure out a small problem before it's certain that it'll work.

88ED8

edit...

Smokinsax

followed your first thread...now im in to watch ver 2.0

2fastGSR

I had no idea this is what you had planned!

Crazy ****!

88ED8

Thanks.