brizjuan

ok before anyone tells me to search i already have and i get more and more confused because people say different things... I have a B20b in my 95 del sol... Motor has basic bolt on I,H,E... I wanna throw on a GSR head... I will probably go with a P72 ECU... thing is i dont wanna do sleeves cause it is very costly... Therefore I will be runnin a stock bottom end... how can I do this setup so I wont blow my motor.. I plan to rev it up to a comfortable 8000... does anyone recommend VAFC... so far this is what i plan to buy

-GSR head
-P72
-ARP head studs
- oil line conversion kit
-VAFC for tunning
-anything else

UnKnownUser

Yah,actaully alot more,for one get aftermarket valvetrain,you can throw an gsr head on but its not thats simple period.

eg_type_r93

i do not recomend reving the stock b20b bottom end to 8000
you can throw on a vtec head but id keep the stock crv redline 6800
you will also need a vtec oil and water pump as well as a vtec timing belt

brizjuan

how would i go about tuning my car so it will keep the 6800 redline

Propulsion

umm, I dont know what these guys are talking about...

put on a gsr head, get some itr cams, rev to 8000, be happy

brizjuan

thats what i wanna hear :-)

B20KING

That may be what you want to hear, but when you pistons, rods and stock sleeves are laying on the street you'll wish you had done some work down there. There is only one way to safely build a B20VTEC and its "Get the block sleeved" I know its very costly but it will cost you even more to have it built twice or more when it blows up. You can keep the stock rods but have ARP hardware for the whole bottom end. I dont reccommend stock VTEC pistons either cause depending on machine work (getting head decked or block shaved) piston to valve clearance becomes an issue. Grab a set of SRP byJE pistons there fairly cheap and very reliable. But if you choose to keep it stock at least get the ARP bolts on the rods and head. And for god sake keep the revs under 7000. JMO

brizjuan

your opinion is appreciated... thanks bro

UnKnownUser

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20KING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That may be what you want to hear, but when you pistons, rods and stock sleeves are laying on the street you'll wish you had done some work down there. There is only one way to safely build a B20VTEC and its "Get the block sleeved" I know its very costly but it will cost you even more to have it built twice or more when it blows up. You can keep the stock rods but have ARP hardware for the whole bottom end. I dont reccommend stock VTEC pistons either cause depending on machine work (getting head decked or block shaved) piston to valve clearance becomes an issue. Grab a set of SRP byJE pistons there fairly cheap and very reliable. But if you choose to keep it stock at least get the ARP bolts on the rods and head. And for god sake keep the revs under 7000. JMO</TD></TR></TABLE>

djickabod

Man i have a stock b20z2 bottom with 99 CTR cams and b16a2 head. Ive been rev'in to 8000 for over a year. Ive had No Problems.

WHITFIELD-TUNED

we build alot of stock bottom end b20 vtecs, they are absolutely fine to 8k. by the way a b20 oil pump and gsr oil pump are the same they are both p72 part #s so no need to change, you can simply put the gsr head on using the b20 timing belt and h20 pump everything lines up perfect. here is an example for you .... 1994 civic hb (customers) b20 block (stock) ported gsr head, 01 itr cams , SK2 intake manifold,ITR t-body , jun p28 ecu, apexi V-AFC itr header, spoon exhaust 194.2hp 141 torque , car runs consistant 12.9-13.1@103mph on 22/8/13 slicks. this motor was built by us over 2 years ago and drives daily from riverside to fullerton. still tunning strong , no smoke, nothing wrong.

brizjuan

to a nicely built motor

eg_type_r93

better safe then sorry in my books