Deetz

I did some searching around and really haven't found out much info on this combination. I already have a complete B17A crank rods and pistons with on 66,000 mile on them. Now it's my understanding that if you use the crank, or all the parts in a B20 block it becomes a 1.9L with a much improved rod ratio.

Any other info would help me out bid time, Thanks!

Deetz

HXMan

Yes. Im not sure what rods you need, I believe custom ones will need to be made.

HybriDNA

Well i have only heard this... but i think you can use the stock gsr rods and can use the pistons from the HONDA ODDESSEY... Not sure tho.

Dr.Pepehn

sorry to be that guy that digs threads up from the dead, but does anyone have any more information on this?

king06

iTrader: (1)

Custom rods will be needed.

EG6 Master

Eagle and Crower make off the shelf rods for this application.

Jaker

There was one of these built by a guy (I want to say his name was Joel, can't remember his screen name). It was quite a while back, but it worked really well. It had an awesomely flat torque curve, and could rev to the moon. It didn't make earth shattering power (I think it was right around 210 whp, and 150ft/lbs) but that was also a long time ago. Now there are better parts to make more power for a build like this. He did use custom rods from Crower.

I think it's time to revisit this one. Who's going to step up to the plate?

deucedeuceEK

Why would you want to waste your time with this? I think ls/b20vtec's have proven to be reliable motors if built correctly.

EG6 Master

the guy you are reffering to is Mike K. back in '03 it made 212HP and 143TQ with 12.5CR and Jun II cams with a mild tune. i foresee this combo making 230HP and 150TQ with todays parts. he used Eagle off the shelf rods that cost $330.

if LS/CR VTECs were ssooo reliable there wouldnt be a thread on "how to build a RELIABLE LS VTEC....." with 328,827 views and 1169 posts that is still going strong after 12 years (i think) of this hybrid being around.

this is NOT a waste of time. basically its a BIG B16A!!!! 143-150TQ is LS/CR VTEC territory!!! you still get to maintain (with reduced compression height pistons) the optimal 1.74 rod ratio or better depending how low you go on the compression height. with stock compression height pistons of 30mm you get a 1.72 rod ratio. this alternative to the Type R/GSR and LS/CR VTEC is ultra reliabe and can rev to the moon and make power that high with the right intake manifold, head, cams and header without a hitch!!!! all this with 1847cc (BIGGER than an LS VTEC) or MORE!!!! AND RELIABILTY!!!

I WILL BE STEPPING UP TO THE PLATE.....WHEN I GET BACK TO THE STATES.

ej6slammed

yes, it would give you more tourqe, but i think is too much work for a b17, why not just grab a b20 than. less prob's

EG6 Master

at 1847 or 1869(85.5mm) or 1891(86mm) its bigger than an LS VTEC with OEM reliability. so its NOT a B17!!

if you already have a B17A1 all you need is a B20 block the Eagle or Crower rods and pistons. if you dont have a B17A1 you can find a used crank or someone selling a B17A1 block with internals. B17A1s are pretty hard to come by but because no one wants to have ANYTHING to do with a B16 or B17 at all these days there are people getting rid of them so that they can build their STROKED MONSTERS, as i like to refer to them.

found this one TODAY in the Marketplace****STILL FOR SALE!!!****
""B17A crank, no damage, very good condition---> $190!!!""
http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show...&highlight=b17

SOMEBODY JUMP ON THIS!!! $190 for the RAREST CRANK HONDA EVER MADE!!!

Jaker

You are right about everything except for the rods. I distinctly recall him waiting a while for custom rods from Crower for this build.

EG6 Master

OK. he used custom Crower rods.
heres the link.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ight=b17+crank

****here are the off the shelf rods****

Crower Rods:

http://www.raceeng.com/p-7168-crwr-r...220mm-pin.aspx
!!!!Crower makes a Maxi-Lite version of this same rod also!!!!

Eagle Rods:

http://www.raceeng.com/p-1729-eagle-...along-rod.aspx

there is a 0.48mm difference in center to center length between the two.

Jaker

Neither of hose "off the shelf" rods (5.512" and 5.531") are the correct length for the build that Mike K did. He specifically states that he used rods that are 6.9mm longer than the stock B17A rods (132.28mm), so his rods are/were 139.18mm or 5.480".

EG6 Master

i know. that was THEN this is NOW.

211.50-30-40.7-140.48=.32mm deck clearance

it doesnt matter what rods he used back then. TODAY this build DOESN'T require custom rods. thats all i was trying to say. you can get the cheap $335 Eagle rods or opt for the Crower Maxi-Lite if you wanted to.

those "correct length" rods you are referring to leave 1.62mm of deck clearance EVEN with a 211.50 deck height. thats too much.

EG6 Master

WOW!! cant believe that nobody's interested in 212/143 from a non Type R/GSR/LS VTEC 1.8L that revs to 10,000 RPM!!

maybe i'm the crazy one??!! oh well, so be it....

jakefalcons

to each their own sounds like a fun build to me, and really reliable.

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

I'd give it a try if I had the money. I ended up using an ITR in my 84.5mm B20 build. She revs to 9500 without a hitch.

EG6 Master

thats kool... i just wanted an alternative that would maintain the B16A rod ratio.
the only other way you can do this is to use the 226mm Dart block and either an LS/CR V/Type R/GSR crank or to add a deck plate to a stock B18 or B20 block.
this build maintains the B16A rod ratio without paying $2000 extra just for a block, all while allowing you to increase capacity in the most important area of them all, the bore, along with an increase in the stroke also. you get the best of both aspects of engine displacement, 4mm bigger (with 85mm pistons) bore and 4mm more stroke.
i just cant see why tuners dont grasp this concept thats all.

EG6 Master

yep, i agree with you, to each their own. thats why i said "so be it". reliabilty is what its all about.

skippygsr

intersting i got a b20 block just chillen im gunna give this a try. what pistons are recomended and what head should be used

kulo

/\ rs or ycp

EG6 Master

i'd say 85mm Supertech 12:1 so you can run stock piston to sleeve clearances.
a B16A head only because Honda used it for the Type R engines and B16/17 engines for some reason or another. the GSR head will only raise the compression ratio by .3 of a point.
if you use a thin head gasket you can get that same .3 increase of the GSR head but without the quench of course.

mikesrex

You can build a reliable 89 stroke B20 motor that will make more power and yield an overall faster car. The power levels you guys are wanting....well I make that much torque with my 1.8L motor (GSR stroke, not LS stroke) on a stock ITR rods/pistons and a cast iron ITR header.

I just hate to see someone spend a lot of time/money/energy into a setup that will get mediocre results. Good luck if you try it.

SANTANA5STAR

it better to destroke with a b16 crank and get custom length rods... . with a b20 block this will yeild a 1.7 liter with a 1.84 rod stroke.... it will also be close to a zero deck hieght so make sure you clay your motor... but also know this b16 are close to zero deck anyway...... ... rod\stroke... with a 1.84 rod stroke you piston speed will be very good around 1713 fps at 8,000 rpm....at 12,000 rpm your mean piston speed will 2570fps and that pretty safe... replacment for displament isincrease effective comp rratio...aka boost or nos....