im considerin droppin a type-r engine into a hatchback....i was also considering LS-Vtec...because i know those put out alot of power...but i also know that they make a big *** whole in my pocket...and im tryin to fully build these engines too...not just drop them in....whats your alls' opinion....ls-vtec....type-r....any input is helpful....

 

Build up a GSR LS/CRVTEC's are cool and cam make some really good power, but i will always stick with the straight GSR... To me the extra 1.8mm of strock isn't worth it.. For a weaker crank, a block without a girdle, and the need to run an external oil feed line.. You planning on all motor or boost???


[Modified by JDMspecEG6, 12:59 AM 11/28/2002]

 

ls/vtec would be meaner set up.

i'd look into ls/vtec, better bang for buck IMO

 

if it waas me i'd go with the b18c5 < gotta love it, but thats just me

 

i am planning on goin all motor...and what i really wanna know about is potential power...like if i were to fully build a gsr engine....would it have more power than an ls-vtec engine that is also fully built....or say a type-r? thanks

 

Get a GSR engine. Reliable, cheaper than the R, and can be built to hell and back with the price difference.

-Nick-

 

If you plan to build it you may as well get a b16. 1/3 of the price and you can bore or stroke it to a 1.8 or 2.0.

 

quick question...when someone gets an engine blue-printed...what exactly do they do...and any ideas on the price?

 

how much does boring a b16 to 2.0 cost on average? cuz that would be much cheaper than the other options if its not too expensive

 

Check into Golden Eagle.... http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm They'll probably charge you around $1000... Good Luck


[Modified by JDMspecEG6, 10:16 PM 12/3/2002]

 

does anyone know about the blueprinting? cost, specs, how long it takes, what they do...etc.???

 

How good would a all motor worked out B16 be? I'm gonna put it in my EF. Need some answers

 

I'm sure you could make the B16 pretty fast..... It will still never be as fast as a GSR or LSVTEC unless you put a deckplate on it or something... My friend (jdm88crx) had his STOCK B16A and ran a 13.52@101.... It did so with an intake, 2.5" exhaust, ACT clutch, and MT 20x6x14 slicks... It was full interior on 92 octane... NOT THAT BAD FOR A STOCK B16... unfortunately the B16's thrust washer fell out and destroyed the bottom end... (We won't be buying any more motors from HMO) So now we put a stock B18C1 block in it and with the same head and it ran a 13.20.... Those first gen cams suck... Oh well that shows you that you could build a easy 12 second B16 for your car... His new motor is a fully built B18C bored to 85mm with a Portflow head and some other goodies... Hopefully we can get it into 11's...

 

you may want to look into h22 swap. it's cheaper and put out more power from the base.

 

I hate the way h22 swaps fit in yeah, they got bigger displacement and torque but for the extra weight and that shitty rod ratio 1.44 I rather stick with the b18c1 bottom end. just my thought

 

**** yea Scott, thanks for agreeing with me... A lot of people seem to the like the H22 and I don't see why... You should put ur race motor in your car then they'll see what a little B series can do.. hehe Peace B18C for us

 

if i were to drop a 97-01 JDM gsr engine into a 92-95 civic hatchback...what are all the things i would need, like what mounts, wiring harness, ecu, **** like that...any help is appreciated

 

Well i've heard two different things about the JDM wiring harnesses, some people say they'll drop straight in and some say that they are wired backwards since the JDM cars have a different battery and ECU location... As for the mounts just keep all the DC ones cuz they'll bolt straight into your Si chassis.. If you get a new motor is will most likely come with an OBD2 ECU so there are a couple different choices you get... You could either chip a P28 or run an OBD1 (P72)... If you are looking a JDM GSR motor then in order to activate the secondary butterflies in the manifold you'll need the GSR computer... I would personally rather just go with a chipped P28 that keeps the runners open or just take them out all together... It's up to you... I know for a fact that the JDM Xsi wiring harness is all backwards cuz i had to rewire my friend's DX for his 88 CRX.... If the JDM wiring is the same as the USDM it's a very very easy swap... Basically just drop it and add wires into your interior wiring harness for VTS, VTM, and KS... Unless your car is a VX, Si, or a 92 in which case you'll only have to run the KS... If it's different either rewire your stock harness which isn't that hard just kinda time consuming or get a 94+ GSR wiring harness... Good Luck

 

alright cool, thanks alot man, you've been really helpful

 

Actually, it is always best to start off with the best motor you can afford. Not only is it easier. But it is also MUCH more cost effective. Yes, a B16A is cheaper than a B18C1 or B18C5. But by the time you stroke it, you will have paid MUCH more than you would have if you just started with a B18C. And even if you were to build the B18C, you would be better off NOT starting with a B16A. The reason? The B18C has a higher deck than the B16A. So you will not have the dangerously short rod ratio of a stroked B16A if you start with a B18C.

 

Damn man you really know what you are talking about huh... So now it takes 240chp to make a 95 EG Si run 13.7 full interior... If you guys wanna hear more about the wonderful information that StorminMatt gives out check him out here in B18C topic... Latez https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=349179&page=2


[Modified by JDMspecEG6, 1:25 AM 12/12/2002]

 

JDM harnesses are backwards because they are RHD.You can get a EDM harness for the same motor but it will be LHD,unless it comes from the UK.

 

YOU CAN USE THE JDM WIRING HARNESS THAT COMES WITH THE VEHICLE. Even though it was meant for a car that is RHD it will still reach to connect with the chassis wiring harness. I know because my car is setup like that.

 

How is that related to this post?