tc

I'm thinking about diving into the world of hybridism. I'm going to purchase an entire ITR, so I hope all of the parts from the donor car are taken care of. I would like to keep the swap as simple as possible and still need creature comforts, such as ac and power steering as this will be my daily driver. With that in mind here are some guidelines.

What civic hatchback year/model would be best to purchase?
I'd like to spend under 5000, but if it's recommended then I'd be willing to spend more for an ek.

Will everything from the ITR transfer over easily?
Seats, Suspension, interior console, etc.

I know the hardest area seems to be the ecu/harness. What do you pros recommend?
I was told I need to purchase a OBD-II civic because of this.

Thanks in advance for all of your help!
This is only the beginning, and I know I'll have many more questions.
I can't wait til I come here telling you how great it was...

Lisa

Trey

For simplicity get the 96-98 EK if the ITR was a 97-98.

If the ITR was a 00-01 get the 99-00 EK.

For a fast car, get the 92 CX/VX. the motor will bolt in, the interior will bolt in, the suspension will work (for the most part). You will need to use your Civic engine harness and wire up the Vtec only if you get a 93-95, 92 had the Vtec wiring already. Then get the 92-95 ecu reprogrammed.

Good luck,

fowler!

Do something different. Get a 92-95 coupe. I think that would be rad. Or try to find a 96-98 sedan. That would be a nice sleeper...and the DXs are pretty light. Just do a 99-00 front end and put the ITR wheels on and you're butter.

vladd

buy a 96 or 97 hatch with high (150K+) mileage. you should be able to find one for around 5K. with some work the itr suspension will fit these hatches, along with the front seats. i heard that for the back seat you have to swap the seat skins. with some rewiring and modifying of mounting brackets the itr cluster will fit but you said you wanted simplicity so just get a ctr or si cluster. i think the dash will fit but a/c won't work and you'll have to change the door panels and modify them (in other words not worth it).

misledyouth

get a 96-98 hatch or 4 door. suspension is a direct swap swap in motor ac. don'tkonw what you have to do with powerstearing if you get a hatch cause it doesn't ahve it. and the seats you can swap in then your good to go. if i may ask could you email me with what your paying for the itr?
m1sledyouth@hotmail.com
or on aim msl3dyouth

jesse

hybrider

eg's own!

tc

Thanks for all of the replies. Why do you recommend the 99-00 ek?
Is not worth the trouble for an eg?
Things I'd like to swap would be the engine and interior. The suspension seems damaged, so I doubt I'll be able to swap that.

HXMan

99-00 EK if the ITR is 99 or newer. Wiring changed in the 99+ hondas.

B18C5-EH2

You do NOT have to use the Civic engine harness even if you get a 1992-1995 Civic.

KEEP the ITR engine harness and it WILL plug right into the Civic's underhood harness on the strut towers. I know because i have an ITR swap in my 1992 Civic.

From there just get a P28 ECU and reprogram it - this will save a LOT of headaches AND the program is BETTER than an craptastic OBDII P73 ITR ECU. I also ran a JDM P73 ECU before my P28, and the P28 is MUCH better.

The CX and VX EGs are the best IMO because they start out 200lbs. lighter than the EK, and they are VERY cheap. I see them go for $1,800-$2,000 all day. I just picked up a good-bodied clean titled 1992 CX for $500 after I sold the crap motor and misc. goods out of it.

Perhaps I am biased, but the truth is that the EG is lighter than the EK, AND the coupes are heavier than the CX and VX hatches, and IMO the coupes don't look as good to me. Opinion here, not facts though, because looks are subjective.

B18C5-EH2

Oh and the suspension from the ITR bolts onto the EG chassis with little or no probslems too. The booster and brake master cylinder can beused to if you'll just get a line bender and bend the Civic's brakelines to match the ITR mastercylinder.

I also have 1997 GS-R seats in my car, and they all bolt right in - only thing is a SLIGHT gap on each side of the rear seats because the Teg's rear seat is more narrow than the Civic's. Solution? Two narrow strips of carpet on each side of the seats and you'll never notice it

cinq

Trey...you are all over the board...clubsi..and here. I just wanted to thank you for doing what you're doing. It's good to have someone like you helping the newbies.

cinq

C5....any plan on upgrading your ride to FI? I'm trying to get more info on the people with C5 with FI...What do they have to do to have a safe ride...especially with a high compression like the C5.

B18C5-EH2

No plans for FI on the B18C5 - I'd just like to run HIGH 12's all motor on street tires.

tc

B18C5,
Thanks for all the information. I'm feeling better about the swap already. I'm working out the pricing on the ITR, and I'm still keeping my eyes open for an nice Civic EG. Let me know if you know of any. You seem to have a good eye for bargains . It sounds like the ITR has everything I need(engine, interior, suspension, brakes), don't know if I'll be able to use the suspension since it the right rear was damaged in the accident. All I need is the P28 ECU. Which ECU is that? Where can I get it reprogrammed? You can run 12's all motor? Can't wait to be like you!

B18C5-EH2

Hey man, you're looking for the MANUAL P28 ECU from any 1992-1995 Si hatchback or 1993-1995 EX coupe. They go for $150 allday at your local salvage yard - maybe even cheaper.

IM user named "kenji" here at H-t to re-chip the P28. He did mine and the program absolutely rocks. Cheap too.

Sell the P73 ECU for a pretty penny - like at least $300 or MORE - and make all of your money back on your P28 re-chipping deal.

And BTW: I'll be the only problem wqith the rear suspension is the ONE arm that attaches where you'll shim the rear end to correct the camber once you lower the car. You would prolly replace this arm anyways if you buy the "Fast Arms" from Specialty Products. those allow 3 degrees of camber adjustment too

Later bro.

jdm_latino

i have a p28 100.00 + shipping..

Trey

Thanks!! Just trying to help and pass along what I've learned. When I started this stuff in 95 there wasn't much info out there......

98DC2-ITR

Everything that EH2 said is correct. If you buy a 96+ civic you will need to change the seat brackets from the civic seats to the itr seats for a truly bolt in exact fit. This isn't that hard. We did it to my old boss' 96 hatch. Rear seats just need the mounting brackets modified in 92-95(can be done with pliers) and in 96+(if i remember right) you will have to weld in a small bracket out of the ITR to get the rear seat to fit exactly right. Been a while since i did the install.

If you decide that you do not want the suspension let me know. Even if it is not complete that is no big deal. I am trying to put together a 5lug changeover and this might just fit the bill. I can repair/replace parts on trailing arms etc. Let me know if you want to sell it and if you can send pics if you do decide to sell. Good luck.

92 CX B16B CTR w/ USDM ITR trans.....
97 Accord SE 2dr (H22 in the works)
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