VTEC SHUTS DOWN
Just to update ....Finish up on my second tank of super unleaded, car is running purrrrfect. Have rolled up about 500 miles since I did my oil change. Had to add 1/4 quart of oil, which should be excellent considering for the most part I ran it pretty hard. Im reading up to a quart per 1000 miles is normal. Even running it with a heavy foot I got 21 mpg. Only problem now is my 5 min. drive to work now takes 15 - 20 min. lol Gotta take the long way home so I can enjoy the long straight aways...then the multi "S" curved roads before landing in my driveway.
And as far as boots..LOL...well boots doesn't bother me. this isn't the first of his posts Ive read....verrry argumentative but seems to know his cars. And if no one ever argued about a subject, nothing would ever be learned.
And as far as boots..LOL...well boots doesn't bother me. this isn't the first of his posts Ive read....verrry argumentative but seems to know his cars. And if no one ever argued about a subject, nothing would ever be learned.
Last edited by backstrap1; Mar 16, 2010 at 06:30 PM. Reason: add info
It was not at full operating temp. but I do sit for at least 2 minutes before driving. I go by the owners manual, it says it is not necessary to sit until it is fully warm. Now when I do take off when not at full temp, I run 1st to about 3000, 2nd to 4000, 3rd to 4500 to 5000. the time I sit , plus starting out this way by fifth gear its at full operating temp. If Im doing something wrong please let me know...I go by the book and what I read on here, as I dont know squat about this car...but im trien to learn. I dont wanna do any damage
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
LOL at not warming the car up. I knew that was the issue after reading like the first line.
OP: glad you figured out the issue. The car doesn't really need any extra special care if anyone else told you that. Just regular maintenance. You really shouldn't beat on ANY car before you warm it up fully. The S2000 just has a fail safe. Besides, that it's surprisingly maintenance free. Infact, it probably requires less maintenance than like...an automatic Accord or something even.
Drive and enjoy it. If you do decide to mod it, make sure you take it somewhere that knows what they're doing. The car does have some anomyllies that change it for the worse if you mod it incorrectly. Mainly...it's made well enough stock that you do have to spend some time and money to mod it for the better rather than for the worse.
OP: glad you figured out the issue. The car doesn't really need any extra special care if anyone else told you that. Just regular maintenance. You really shouldn't beat on ANY car before you warm it up fully. The S2000 just has a fail safe. Besides, that it's surprisingly maintenance free. Infact, it probably requires less maintenance than like...an automatic Accord or something even.
Drive and enjoy it. If you do decide to mod it, make sure you take it somewhere that knows what they're doing. The car does have some anomyllies that change it for the worse if you mod it incorrectly. Mainly...it's made well enough stock that you do have to spend some time and money to mod it for the better rather than for the worse.
Last edited by B serious; Mar 16, 2010 at 09:22 PM.
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From: Tulsa, Oklahoma, United States of America
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
He's burning 0.25 quarts every 1000 miles of "hard" driving. Even if he's using Grape Jelly, he should keep doing it. That's not much burn off. It doesn't really get too much better than that.
I've heard of Mobil1 burning off in Hondas...but if he's only losing 0.25 quarts every 1k miles...it works fine.
That's about what my car burns on any brand of oil. It does burn a little more if I track it. Mine doesn't care what I use. It consumes about the same. Mobil1, Royal Purple, Valvoline, Castrol...whatever.
I've heard of Mobil1 burning off in Hondas...but if he's only losing 0.25 quarts every 1k miles...it works fine.
That's about what my car burns on any brand of oil. It does burn a little more if I track it. Mine doesn't care what I use. It consumes about the same. Mobil1, Royal Purple, Valvoline, Castrol...whatever.
Using Castrol Synthetic 5W-30 and also went with the K & N oil filter, also K & N air filter. Still need to change oil in the rear end. Oh yeah also put syncro in the transmission. Havew not done rear end because I need to make my way to the honda motorcycle shop.....Mechanic said it would be cheaper there, VS going to honda car dealership..Guess its true, but for as little as it takes dont see that big of a deal. Problem is most dealerships close the parts counters on sat.
Using Castrol Synthetic 5W-30 and also went with the K & N oil filter, also K & N air filter. Still need to change oil in the rear end. Oh yeah also put syncro in the transmission. Havew not done rear end because I need to make my way to the honda motorcycle shop.....Mechanic said it would be cheaper there, VS going to honda car dealership..Guess its true, but for as little as it takes dont see that big of a deal. Problem is most dealerships close the parts counters on sat.
book calls for 90W....dats all im putting. I do what they call for.
Boots your pissen on my leg an trien to tell me its raining.......As I said ....not your first post i have read. You are the main one on here talken about USE WHAT THE BOOK CALLS FOR! I could go back and look up the exact post on FLUIDS you posted on....But I already wasted this much time on you already....
Jus for the record..I think BOOTS DOES KNOW HIS ****.....but sometimes he is just full of it......HAVE A NICE DAY!!
Boots your pissen on my leg an trien to tell me its raining.......As I said ....not your first post i have read. You are the main one on here talken about USE WHAT THE BOOK CALLS FOR! I could go back and look up the exact post on FLUIDS you posted on....But I already wasted this much time on you already....
Jus for the record..I think BOOTS DOES KNOW HIS ****.....but sometimes he is just full of it......HAVE A NICE DAY!!
book calls for 90W....dats all im putting. I do what they call for.
Boots your pissen on my leg an trien to tell me its raining.......As I said ....not your first post i have read. You are the main one on here talken about USE WHAT THE BOOK CALLS FOR! I could go back and look up the exact post on FLUIDS you posted on....But I already wasted this much time on you already....
Jus for the record..I think BOOTS DOES KNOW HIS ****.....but sometimes he is just full of it......HAVE A NICE DAY!!
Boots your pissen on my leg an trien to tell me its raining.......As I said ....not your first post i have read. You are the main one on here talken about USE WHAT THE BOOK CALLS FOR! I could go back and look up the exact post on FLUIDS you posted on....But I already wasted this much time on you already....
Jus for the record..I think BOOTS DOES KNOW HIS ****.....but sometimes he is just full of it......HAVE A NICE DAY!!
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
The "book" doesn't call for syncromesh in the trans, though.
Using Castrol Synthetic 5W-30 and also went with the K & N oil filter, also K & N air filter. Still need to change oil in the rear end. Oh yeah also put syncro in the transmission. Havew not done rear end because I need to make my way to the honda motorcycle shop.....Mechanic said it would be cheaper there, VS going to honda car dealership..Guess its true, but for as little as it takes dont see that big of a deal. Problem is most dealerships close the parts counters on sat.
3 of my friends worked at Honda as techncians (2 different dealerships). When I asked about the diff oil, he brought me a quart of "carquest" 80W-90 and said I'd probably just be better off buying it from carquest myself....without the dealer mark up.
I used AMSoil 80W-90 or 75W-90...can't remember.
Just buy a 80W-90 or 75W-90 or 90W GL5 oil. Make sure it's GL5 and not GL4. GL5 is a hypoid oil...which you need for the rear end. Don't buy anything with any LSD additive...this will be detremental to a Torsen diff.
Take a BIG WHIFF before you put it in the differential, BTW. MmMmMmMmM...
And actually it was 5w-40 I put in the motor.
Diff calls for SAE 90 GL5 or GL6. The mechanic recommended honda motorcycle shop because they would have it on the shelf. Dealership prob. would not.
As far as the syncro, a lot of people on here say how good it is and the mechanic also recommended it. With the diff. Im just not to sure yet so i will stick with the SAE 90 for now......
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
lol...so you stray away from the 10w-30 recommendation on the engine (~$2000 for a used long block)...but you HAVE to have 90W in the diff? (around $500 or so for a used AP1 diff)
Meh...not my car. Do what you gotta do.
5W-40 is a weird weight. But I'm sure it won't do much/any harm.
Meh...not my car. Do what you gotta do.
5W-40 is a weird weight. But I'm sure it won't do much/any harm.
Just have to fire up boots...lol
And actually it was 5w-40 I put in the motor.
Diff calls for SAE 90 GL5 or GL6. The mechanic recommended honda motorcycle shop because they would have it on the shelf. Dealership prob. would not.
As far as the syncro, a lot of people on here say how good it is and the mechanic also recommended it. With the diff. Im just not to sure yet so i will stick with the SAE 90 for now......
And actually it was 5w-40 I put in the motor.
Diff calls for SAE 90 GL5 or GL6. The mechanic recommended honda motorcycle shop because they would have it on the shelf. Dealership prob. would not.
As far as the syncro, a lot of people on here say how good it is and the mechanic also recommended it. With the diff. Im just not to sure yet so i will stick with the SAE 90 for now......
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