teggy1205

Hey guys I'm really looking forward to purchasing this 01 s2k but I wanna ask you guys a few things to make sure it's worth it.


This is a dealer maintained completely stock black w/ red interior s2k just at 92k miles. The dealer told me the ignition coils were replaced along with vacuum hoses to clear the CEL. Should I be concerned that this will lead to more serious future replacements? I can afford repairs but im not trying to buy an s2k and have to deal with more work than fun.

Also I would like to know if there will be any future problems with the car that's common with ap1's I'm looking for this car to be my daily for atleast 4 years and I only drive about 7k miles a year.

Any help is much appreciated thanks. Can't wait to join the s2k family

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Depends on what the CEL was on for. If it was on for a misfire...it could be a bunch of things. One of them being low compression from an over rev or other abuse. The other could just be plugs or coil packs.

How much are they asking?

teggy1205

The car has 28 service records and a very good and clean car fax so I'm hoping it was an old guy or a girl driving it. Are ignition coils and vacuum lines a common fix with ap1's because that's all there was throwing the CEL according to the dealer. And asking 11 grand car has 91k miles in my personal color of choice black.

Also it is completely stock. Obviously I'm gonna test drive it and it it doesn't meet my expectations I won't buy it. Just want to know if the repairs done to the car were serious or a common fix

B serious

iTrader: (1)

No way to know over the internet. I'd compression test it at the very least. Idk if they'll let you, though.

teggy1205

Hmm good idea they might lol I may not need to I know how it should feel when driving it if it can't handle a couple launches I don't want it. I've been doing some reading and apparently the vacuum lines are a very common problem with the ap1. I'm gonna try and see if they will give me some type of warranty lol doubt it though

Wahski

FYI, the valve retainers are another common problem on the AP1. Not sure if it'll throw a code though. More than likely the dealer is selling the car as-is and the only way to properly diagnose the CEL is troubleshoot it after you buy it and pray it's a simple fix.

j13

iTrader: (2)

When I doubt look for anther one. When I was shopping for my 98-01 dc2 I test drove ALOT I kicked tired and looked up and down, I made buyers pissed but they weren't the ones dropping 4-5k down cash. When I had a feeling about something I walked. I found the right one and 5k miles later it runs new. Btw 2000 black gsr.

If you have to think hard about it. Don't look at it anymore.

Tight-R

^ Do you even proofread, bro?

Why is thinking about it a bad thing? If you're in doubt, why can't you do things to clear up the things you're doubting?

teggy1205

^^ yeah exactly I'm only doubting it because I haven't driven the car yet. I have an appointment Tuesday and this dealership isn't a used car dealer on the side of the road, it's corporate so they do have standards on all the vehicles they sell.

Memo6453

buying a 13 yr old car you gonna expect some work to be done, spark plugs, fluids, alignment, etc. if you don't have that kind of money on the side to do this and a little extra for the 'just in case' failures id look for a car a little newer and possibly from an enthusiast who would have taken care of the vehicle. just my opinion.

Fliptard

AP1's have a weaker trans and rear end. Not saying it's GOING to break, cause issues. but if beat on enough it will.

teggy1205

Dealership handled all the basic maintence... Plugs, alignment, and fluids. I personally think it has the potential to be a great buy but things can go either way. I was really just curious if anyone has experiences with older ap1's and how well they do after 100k miles and up. I've seen many many s2ks with 150k miles so this eases my doubts. And I've got two jobs I'm gonna reward my self with somethin nice haha

teggy1205

Also I don't plan on beating it to death MAYBE a few times at the track after suspension and a new clutch/flywheel

I figured I got my gsr at 100k miles completely stock and the car is still absolutely perfect that this s2k at 92k miles stock should have the honda reliability I'm looking for

Tight-R

Beat the **** out of it, it's not going to just break. IDK where the hell these people are coming up with this ****. Two things to have a happy diff.

1. Don't launch it.
2. Don't bang gears, it's slow, shifting lightly won't make it any slower than it already is.

Other than that enjoy it up to 200,000miles and beyond. Track the **** out of it. It will be a great car for years and years.

teggy1205

^^^^ thank you someone who has tips about the car itself no just basic things. You mind telling me where you get this opinion from, I'm sure all of us want to know you seem to know what you're talking about.

Arsenal

Search the s2ki forums. More info than you"ll need. Have 150k. Needs a clutch, have replaced the master cylinder and a couple o rings, other than that, golden!

teggy1205

I replaced those on my gsr and it made daily driving a pleasure. Thanks for the tips will definitely surf those forums

Memo6453

unless i saw the dealership change these things with my own eyes, id change them myself just to feel better about it. My S2K only has 19,800 miles and I'm still replacing everything i just referred to. Mileage doesn't always tell the story. Ive seen cars 100k plus and perfect condition and I've seen less than 50k cars that are disasters. Personally i don't trust dealerships as they don't know anything about anything, they are just salesmen and women. Drive the car and do the normal checks, s2ki.com has a great write up on what to look and check for as well as year by year what to change or be aware of. Just read and re-read all the posts about purchasing a used s2k and your decision will be easier. The forum has a cars for sale section and id feel better about buying from a member than a random dealership that the car could have had 3+ owners. once again just my $0.02. Just do your research and when you buy the car enjoy it! its fun as hell...

teggy1205

I went on the forum and they have VERY CLEAN s2ks for sale with half as many miles for just 5 grand more.

It's amazing how much the market changes on these cars with just a few grand.

I think what I'm going to do is check out the car test drive it Saturday and get a feel for the car first. I already told the dealership I'll buy it Tuesday after I check it out Saturday so if I fall in love with it and feel like it's worth it I'll buy it. If not I'll save my money and get a much much newer looking s2k.

Being patient has never steered me wrong

B serious

iTrader: (1)

AP1's have a vacuum line problem? Never got that memo after 8 years of ownership.

You can't break a S2000. Unless you're a collossal dumbass. Or a total genius.

8 years of track use and general awesomeness later, mine is still great.

Notes:
-I did a 45sec burnout that Tight-R filmed because f$&k those tires and f#&k that road.

-the diff started clunking a year or 2 later because the spiders had welded themselves together from overheating. I was launching at 8k RPMs at at autocross on 265/40/17 starspecs and a Exedy Hyper Single clutch because I was like "whatever, it's already broken". It never actually broke. I swapped it out because the "welded" diff was making the car slow enough that it was only a touch faster than a EVO 10 at the track.

-I over revved it at the beginning of a 3 day track weekend and cracked a retainer. I thought to myself, "I'm not going home. I'd rather blow it up". It drove fine for 3 whole track days back to back. Got the retainer replaced.

-replaced the head a year later because I bent those valves and the problem didn't show up for a year. I drove the car to CA and SC and I was on the way home from the dragon when the misfire CEL popped up. That would explain why the car felt as slow as my ITR.

-the stock brake pads are awful. I over heated them at like 130mph at road america passing some fool in a S4. *Almost* had an incident. But that was 8 days after taking it home. Dealer brakes. Dealer tires.

No other problems. Besides the busted spindles from hitting track curbing. :/

Also....crashed the car at Autobahn CC. :/

I should rethink my strategy....

teggy1205

^^^ well damn you guys are really making me wanna go test drive the car right now lol

Question for the s2k owners: when I do a rolling launch how good is it going to feel? (Stock s2k)

Wahski

Except that guy who's selling his because he found metal shavings in his oil pan

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Don't launch it. That was the lesson this whole time. Unless you mean just flooring it from a roll?

They're fast-ish. About as fast as a EVO8/9 GSR or STi from a roll. High 13's from a stop. All of that is valid if you know how to drive a Honda.

Don't buy it to drag race it though.

Buy a EVO or STi if you want something that's just easily fast all the time.

teggy1205

I'm pretty sure I stated a rolling lauch... Lol

Yeah definitely don't plan on dragging it just a reliable fun daily for a few years that's it.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Rolling launch means revving it with the clutch in and dumping the clutch...while moving. Diffs can be expensive.