need alittle help with my S ..ok so its building pressure and gettng hot ..it dont show to be hot on the gauge..the top hose is hot but the bottom hose is cold also my heater does not get hot..not even warm ...i just replaced the thermostat.. and still the same thing ..could the waterpump be bad ? its not leaking and theres no noise coming from the pump

 

sounds like you have a restriction somewhere

 

time for a koyo radi and some samco hoses.


problem solved.

 

yea thats what i done i put a Mishimoto on it and its been getting hot every sence..im pretty sure i have air in the system but i cant seem to bleed it out

 

its bc u need pressure on the system. sitting there waiting for the bubble to come isnt gonna do ****..

this is what u need.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...-15-30_217.jpg


it lets u build the pressure needed and "over fill" the system. u put this on your radi. full the funnel up about half way and as it warms up. cycle the heat give it a lil gas and it will suck the bubble out. takes about 30 mins. i had todo it to my 2010 pathfinder bc the heat wouldnt work at idle.

pm me with any questions.

 

How long did you run it for? The top hose is the return and the bottom is the feed correct? It's normal for the feed to be much cooler than the return as the radiator has cooled the coolant by the time it reaches the bottom hose. What is "hot"? I mean, an engine normally runs at 180-220 degrees, so ofcourse it's "hot". As far as heat goes, you need to properly bleed the system and get coolant into the heater core, which sounds like its your problem...not sold on the cap with the funnel on it....somehow I've done 20 cars without ever having one of those...

 

obviously, you can burp a system with out this method. its just an idea. he obviously has a bubble in the system and as u said needs to get coolant in the heater core.

another thing he could try is to manualy open the heater control valve near the fire wall. and see if its stuck closed. ive seen that b4 too.

 

yup, i have the 50 dollar snap-on one....i hate the snap-on man

 

park your car on a steep hill (nose pointing uphill of course), pull the cap off but be careful if you just turned the car off and it hasn't cooled, fill to the top and close the cap. start the car and let it idle until the fans come on or hold it at 3k until the fans come on. Afterwards, with a rag or something (folded 4-5 times over so it's 1" thick) turn the pressurized cap off a quarter turn. you'll hear air hiss out and coolant will be trying to flow out. Turn it back and you'll have 90% of the air out of the system. Let the car cool down so the coolant can contract, top it off and you should be good.

Reason it isn't overheating is probably because there's enough coolant in there for the fans to pick up the slack. good luck

 

great thread, you can also release the bleeder valves right? i forget where there located but i know its for removing air bubbles..

anther thing, my top hose is red hot, litterly bakes the engine.. is this normal? should i take a temp reading.. just feels way too hot

 

do u have the part number for that. mine is home made, but it works.

and i love my snap on man, my wife doesn't tho lol.

 

nah it shouldn't be that hot.

 

Red hot? Bakes the engine? You need to be more specific....as I stated, your engine normally runs at 180-220 degrees....which is HOT...like throw a steak on type of hot. It shouldnt be "red hot" but I doubt anything on your engine is glowing red...and if it is, I take my all my remarks and you've got real issues.

On a side note, I'd like to see pictures of it being red hot....I mean, I've seen racing engines with red hot headers and rotors that are red hot, but nothing on a street car.

 

yup u need a giant yellow thing to fix ur problem lmfao