....

 

These cars burn oil. How much oil r u burning? Typically ESP ap1 will blow smoke under wot VTEC but it's mostly fuel

 

Yeah it's a ap1 I burned like half a court in 340 miles and I thought I was burning black smoke but it's blue so that's def oil not fuel. Plus I deleted the pcv running catch can and when I changed plugs cycl 3 had some oil on the plug and tip

 

I just got the car and have been beating on it for the 340 miles Im running syn/blend but gonna drain and go back to regular see if it helps and add my oil cooler also cause the extra oil volume should help

 

Still did not answer how much ur burning "alot" is a relative word. What brand oil? Oil cooler won't do anything to help ur issue esp on a dd. R u running a gauge to c oil temps? R u going to get rid of the stock oilcooler set up?

 

I'm running shell rotella t5 Honda filter. No oil temp or pressure gauges I'm going to keep the stock cooler setup and just add my thermostatic one to it. Since my oil change 340 miles ago I have burned half a quart of oil

 

Half a quart is "alot" ur right. Ur oil cooler will be pointless if ur keepin stock the stock gets cooled/heated by the engine coolant so it won't really go below that unless u get rid of it.

 

do a compression test and leak down test...boom, you'll know your answer

 

Ok well I wanted to know which sleeve would I get to just use stock rings and piston? Part #:BC8007 would these work?

 

Darton Sleeves. My friend blew #3 in his F22C and we put in their sleeves for stock application. They also have a MID sleeve if you're serious but you said you were looking for stock. If you send your block to Darton the machining for the sleeves will probably be cheaper than a machine shop doing it for you...problem is, Darton is backed up and it took three months to get the block back. We just got it back though and it looks amazing. Too bad we still needed to get it to a machine shop to hone it. Only $80 for the hone.

 

a proper hone is a very big deal with frm sleeves. u might as well read up on the 2.4 stroker builds that use all of the shelf honda parts. only thing is the k24 crank needs to be machined(for the flywheel to bolt up; i think dont quote me on the flywheel part)

pm dagle he put together atleast one f20/22 b4

 

You don't need to do anything to your sleeves if you don't have any scarring/ scratches/ out of round/ or excessive wear. There is NO need to have your block sleeved or honed unless any of these conditions are present. Is there a reason you are running a catch can without a turbo charged car? If you are doing it for "looks" there is absolutely no point to this and you're not helping your potentially worn out rings. The PCV system is there for a reason, don't delete it unless you are running boost. Also, why in the heck are you running an oil designed for diesel engines? I would recommend switching to a normal proper weight oil.

As far as your "rebuild" is concerned, I can tell you that everything you will need (if ordered through Majestic) will run you about $6-700. That includes all bearings/ rings/ seals/ ect ect

 

Forgot to add.....don't buy ANY parts (ring/ piston-wise) until you have the block torn down and measured for everything you will need. You won't be able to read all of your bearing stamps until the crank is fully out anyways.

 

i had a catch can laying around from when i had my big turbo 1.8t and threw it on to see if this helped my car smoking problem and it did not. as for the shell rotella oil its a good dino oil and for the price it cannot be beat plus its only 40 weight and alot of guys on here run amsoil with the same weight.
did a compression test today and had 245-245-245-240 across the board

 

Ok, now the leakdown test. Hopefully your rings are ok.

 

Ditto im gonna keep my fingers crossed

 

not true at all.. these blocks are ALWAYS way out of round and have a ton of taper with miles on them. If you rebuild you will have to go oversize.

I have torn down perfectly good running motors that were too worn out to be put back together with std size pistons.

Also, any machine shop can hone these blocks, they just need to contact the manufacturer of their honing machine to obtain the proper tooling for Honda FRM blocks. Many shops mistake FRM for nikisil.. those are totally different materials and need different tooling.

 

Funny that you say they're always out of round because mine wasnt, and there was 0 taper. Regardless of how many F20's you have rebuilt I would not recommend anyone that is rebuilding any engine to order parts without first doing a teardown and inspection. But, anyone can pick and choose which advice they'd like to take.

 

Did you use a deckplate when you measured the bores? These motors distort quite a bit with the head and mains bolted on.

 

The entire assembly was sent out to my local machine shop for an inspection after my tear down

 

Also, when I got my new rings each gap measured out perfectly. Granted my engine only had about 30k on it. This is also why I noted the things that OP should look for and said it WOULD need to be bored if they were present.

 

But did they use a deckplate? And what tolerances did they use?

 

Yes, and factory tolerances. What else would they use?

On a side note, you're up in Raleigh? I was at Ft. Bragg for about 4.5 years