Is anyone else experiencing knocking when they startup their S2K? Kinda scary, since this usually means oil in the cylinder.

 

Checked the plugs, some signs of detonation, typical crappy 91 Cali octane, probably more around 88.

Anyways, there was no oil on the combustion chamber, but 1 and 4 had lotsa oil on the threads.

Any thoughts? Is the valve cover just not torqued enough?

 

I THINK YOU CAN EXPERIENCE KNOCKING WHEN THE TIMEING IS OFF. NOT TO SURE THOUGH.


[Modified by Wmiller563, 5:10 PM 5/18/2002]

 

Take that car to the dealer ASAP!!!

 

If it knocks for just a second at cold startup it may just be the oil pressure getting to the valve train. If it knocks for a little longer like for 10-30 seconds it could be piston slap, or worse yet piston skirt damage from oil starvation. These little guys can use up to a quart of oil every 1000 miles and if not checked can eat up piston skirts. Either way it needs to see a Honda Technician. For future reference, low octane fuel will only cause knock under load and or under extreme engine temps. (that is if the fuel system is working correctly). Hope this helped.

 

What every S2K owner needs in their car at all times
After my last post about my car knocking @ startup I decided to just change the plugs altogether.

I changed them over the to the Denso Iridiums in the heat range of 8 (I don't think Heat range really matters unless you're turbo or lotsa NA BMEP). The car idles better, revs smoother, sounds more like it should.

But because of crappy 91 octane my car was always pinging (detonating), I couldn't even relax and listen to the radio because I was afraid that I would grenade the motor.

Picked up some NOS octane boost and the car sounds and runs the way it should. This is a must have in the trunk. And good for 20 gallons, so 2 fill-ups for about 8 bucks. It sucks that we have to do this, but with 11:1 CR no real alternative is there.

 

I know this is 7 years after the last post on the subject but my 2.3 CL does the same thing (it has 252,000 on it but I replaced the oil pump while doing the timing belt & water pump figuring it might be the culprit). After doing this to no avail, and until I have time to pull the oil pan and plastic-gauge the bearings, I decided to try something to nurse it. I bought a non-chip key and I crank the engine until the oil light goes out (usually about 15-20 seconds). Then I put my chip key in and start it. No knocking at all now at cold startup. And I still run it to 5,000 rpm sometimes and it's relatively quiet. Shame no-one has come up with a definitive solution to the problem but I really believe it's a rod bearing. After a month or so of doing this I decided to change from regular synthetic to Shell Rotella synthetic 5 w 40 (yes it's diesel oil). Now I only have to crank it for 10 seconds in the morning or after it sits for a couple hours. Hope the non-chip key idea helps someone.

 

Sure it's not the common thrust washer problem?

 

Now that's what i was hoping for, someone to tell me what it could be. I didn't know there was a common thrust washer problem. I'll check it out first chance i get.
Thank you very much!

 

Worth a look, problem is if it's picked up there'll be a burr on the crank you'll have to get rid of before fitting a new pair.