I'm trying to get the s2000 supported in MegaSquirt. Does anyone have access to the crank trigger data so I can request to get it coded?

 

there are 24 teeth on the crank, the cam triggers are different for the intake and exhaust and different per year.

they are easily enough modable to make them one tooth.

 

Does anyone know what the pattern is? 24 - 1 tooth? At what degree? etc. 24 is a good start, but I can't determine TDC with just a 24 tooth evenly spaced wheel.

 

on the pre dbw cars the intake and exhaust cam triggers have 3 teeth, on the dbw cars there is only one trigger with 4 teeth. they are all different sizes

your best bet is to grind off the teeth so you have one left on the cam. You can figure out tdc from that.

 

I'm actually not concerned about cam as of yet. I'll run the first one wasted spark. Then after I have crank sync solid, I'll add cam sync, and set up sequential injection and ignition.

 

The crank has 24 equal teeth

 

OK, I guess a trigger wheel, it is. Thanks for making my life difficult, Honda! It's a shame these cars are so amazing. Zetecs and 420as are so much easier...

 

honda timing patterns are about the easiest there are

if your ecu cant do a 24 and 1 timing pattern then you need a new one IMHO.

if you really need one missing on the crank just grind one off

 

MS does have support for this crank pattern. Not sure if it supports the cam pattern though.
So is the MS going to be full sequential injection with direct fire ignition? Dual tables for high and low cam operation?


I agree!
Just about every other JDM vechicle use the same timing pattern. It' s the most popular pattern actually.

 

I do mostly domestics, so Hondas are foreign to me. (No pun intended)

The problem is that the majority of MS users are using crank triggers only, and if there are more than 1 cam wheel, it's a chore and a memory hog to have them all programmed and tested. Not that it's that big of a deal, but I just don't have any hondas to test on, and the guy that wants my shop to work on his car isn't going to be a happy guy about testing a crank decoder and possibly not having his car run well for 3 months while the bugs are worked out.

The plan is to run it batch fire, wasted spark as of yet, although if we need cam trigger to get TDC, not just phase, then we may as well do 4 injector and spark outs. The idea of using MS is to keep it cheap though, and by the time you do all that, you may as well do peak and hold injector drivers instead of just support for saturated injectors, and then cost starts spiraling up. I did a quote for a guy last week for a setup with all the toys, and it came to almost $700 (Not including install or tuning). For that, you can start looking at other options as well, and MS loses it's price/performance advantage.

That's why a trigger wheel seems to be a good option. I can just bolt it on, and go.

The one thing that concerns me is the cam solenoids. I'm assuming it's not hard to lock the cam one way or the other, but I'm also confident that stuck on "big", it will idle pretty radically, and stuck on "small", peak power will be less than desirable. So the answer is to go ahead and use it, but then I have to decide if we're going to use table switching and in fact, use a circuit from the stock signal to the VTec to flip it. How is VTec wired? If I were engineering it, it would be a solenoid that's only hot during operation of the hotter cam profile. Is that how it's set up? (I hope so. It wouldn't be that hard to do a relay off of that to flip tables back and forth if so.)

 

vtec is simple. use a 12v switched output to turn it on.. thats it. One wire going to the solenoid.

I still think you are wasting your time trying to batch fire this thing first. I dont know much about MS, but I attempted to play around with the software and it does not look like you can easily use any timing pattern other that what they have all ready specified, and even then it dosnt show you exactly what is going on.. junk imho

why not find a used aem ems... you can use basically any honda ems (the 30-1000 is not ideal, it does not have 4 coil drivers but all the others do) since you are wiring it up yourself. those can be had used for under 700 bux and do way more than MS and you dont have to modify anything on the engine.

 

Jdogg, you haven't seen it run with any reasonable firmware. You have to actually load up an ini file from a full on firmware before you'll see anything interesting. The original B&G code is about as basic as an SAFC, and about as useless.

Crank decoders are added into the firmware, and have to be coded. It's not nearly as simple as typing in a couple values into a table to make it work.

The ECU programmers are decent, but they are NOT more capable. I have my own running boost control, launch control, flat shift, fan control, tach control, and 38psi of boost in a neon. The beauty of MS is that you can do whatever you want with it if you can solder a couple wires. It's pretty comparable to the AEM as far as capability, but certainly not as plug and play. That's the problem with it though. Most people that start looking at it don't know how to dig deeper into it at first glance, and at first glance it looks like junk.

 

A stock honda ecu can do all of those things as well.. but that dosnt make it the best solution.

just out of curiosity, what kind of car is the motor going into?

Have you thought about using the oem wiring harness and stock ecu? That would be pretty simple to do.

 

It's an s2k. It's going to be pretty well boosted. If you have any other suggestions for solid engine management less than $600, I'm all ears though.

 

if the customer cant afford something proper then they surely dont need to be boosting the car.

the cheapest option worth a damn is a use aem ems. a 1050, 1052 or 1012 will work good, you can get a 1010 to work but it takes a little more work than a 1050.

 

I'd like to stay away from AEM if I can. The MS gives me everything the AEM does for less. It looks like with a cam input, I'll be able to use the standard wheel decoder in MS, as long as I know what the cam input would look like. Anyone have the data for what an 03 cam wheel looks like? I'm assuming TDC would be on the rising edge of one of the 24 crank teeth, correct?