I just got my car back from the shop and was wondering what is the proper break in procedures? They replaced some retaners and valves.

 

I just got my type r back from acura with a whole new engine rebuild because it was burning too much oil.

First 1000kms iv kept it under 4krpms.....id recommand the same!

 

well i don't know if that's the best method for breaking in a block.
http://<a href="https://honda-tech.c...?id=878397</a>https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1467240<A HREF="http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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My question is the valves, valve guides, and retainers. I don't really see a reason to take it easy on them but im thinking a oil change could be a good idea. If some one could point me to a link or give me some advice it would be great, i don't want the s2 to be in the shop for another month.

 

anyone?

 

just don't vtec it and your fine ...wait about 600 miles or so...

 

Just curious but why? What would happen if i weren't to wait? Is changing the oil a good idea?

 

Here's my thought. I've been messing with all kinds of motors since I've gotten into mechanics, 2 and 4 strokes, from little R/C .12/.15 motors to go karts, pocket bikes, the Hondas, a few rotaries, some Nissans and Toyotas here and there.

For the high strung motors (2 strokes), I've always followed this method, and I have a few 6-8 year old 2 strokes to show for it.

1) Run the first tank through at idle with no load, tuning with EGT probe and A/F ratio. For the 2 strokes it was the high and low carb needles, whereas now it's ignition and fuel management. Coincidently this is along the lines of what Mr. Earl Laskey was talking about.
2)Once tuned, run a 2nd tank through it with an occasional blip of the throttle. No load.
3)3rd tank, take it out and run it aggressively through the gears. Aggressive, not retarded.
4) Tank #4, beat it like you hate it.

The whole process is pretty similar to whatever that guy with the Piston Museum was trying to explain. I've been around the two stroke community picking up pointers here and there, and finally got it down to the "tank method". It's an idiot proof (me-proof) way to make sure things go right. I don't know if all that bullshit helps with your topic.

Retainers don't need to be broken in, but ensure your head is prepped and all the valves seat properly. Broken retainer = loose valve, pieces in the head = damamge to sealing surfaces. Go over it with a microscope, or even better, a competent engine builder.

 

No such thing as break in. Go drive it like you would.

 

Thanks alot sideways and spoon.eg that's what I thought. According to Honda your supposed to baby it until at least 2000 miles. Which to me made no sense. Honda did all the head work so i hope its all good but already i had to take it back because an injector was leaking fuel so im not sure how competent there mechanics are. O and another question kinda off topic but when i got the car back i put the top down at the dealership still and some how it cracked my back window is that covered or am i SOL and should just get a hard top.Its an ap1 so its the plastic one. They quoted 1900 to fix the window.

 

I've never heard of 2000 miles. For a new Honda it's usually 600-1000 miles of break in.

Did they go through your car with a checklist before they took it into the shop? They're supposed to, to notice any prior body damage so they won't be liable for it. If they did not note that the window was cracked before they took it, then you might be entitled to a new one, because damaged was incurred while in their possession. Mention to the same service advisor that did the checklist , maybe he could help you out.

Injectors would leak due to improper installation, or old/re-used $4 O-rings.

 

Like I said, theres no such thing as a break in. People who believe in that theory are retarted. The way you break your car in when new is the way its going to run in the long shot. If you ***** it, its going to run like a *****. If you drive it like you stole it, its going to be a freak. Thats a fact. Just drive it.


As for the rear window. I would complain to the shop about that. Tell them you did a visual inspection of the car before you dropped it off and that there was nothing wrong with the back window. Trust me, if you bitch and bitch and bitch... something will be done about it. Ask to speak to the supervisor though. Talking to a tech is going to get you no where.