2nd gear doesnt work
so i just recently purchased an s2000 and the 2nd gear doesn't work i would have to shift from 1st to 3rd. I bought the car to get the tranny inspected and they said that the syncro shift link needs to be adjusted something like that and some say i have to get the whole tranny replaced. so my question is.. does the syncros need to be adjusted or do have replace the whole tranny?
they sell the whole gear with syncro as honda all together if i am not mistaken
but do take note that the labor on the job could easily be more than material cost
but do take note that the labor on the job could easily be more than material cost
basicly u got bs'ed. the syncro on ur second gear is [freak]ed you have two choices get the syncro replaced or get a used tranny. the cost of both wont be too far apart. unless u replace the syncro urself but judging from ur post i dont think you would be capable of doing that. goodluck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by awdtrash »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are ap1 trannys compatible with ap2 motors?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes they are interchangeable. If you are just swapping an AP2 trans into an AP1 driveline you have one requirement and two options.
The AP1 propeller shaft mounts to the AP1 transmission through the companion flange (PN 40441-PCY-010) at the back of the transmission. In the AP1, the 6 mounting bolts (hex key) are M8 x 60 mm front (PN 90812-S2A-000) and 65 mm (PN 90183-S2A-000) in the rear. In the AP2, they are M10 and both ends are 62 mm (PN 90182-S2A-A00). If your AP1 trans is trashed or junked, pull off the companion flange to reuse it on the AP2.

So, you need to pull the AP2 companion flange off of the rear of the trans and replace it with the AP1 companion flange part number above. A 27mm impact wrench and a wheel puller will do the job.
I suggest that you consider buying several of the M8 front bolts as back up. Unless you use a hex wrench with a pristine insertion head (absolutely clean end cut and hex flutes), and some sort of impact you will round out the hex key in the bolt head requiring you to cut off the head to remove the bolt.
Optional part #1 has to do with the clutch slave cylinder. The AP2 version has a delay valve. You may modify it to remove the delay. Otherwise, just use the AP1 slave cylinder.
Optional part #2 is for your speedo. A yellow box will be needed to re-calibrate the factory gauge. This is because the sensor is on the propeller shaft and not the drive shaft. W/O the yellow box your cluster will read a few MPH faster with the AP2 trans.
Be sure to get the proper spline clutch alignment tool before starting the job. You may wish to also get some Honda hi-temp grease to lube the spline, release bearing and bearing guide. Of course, it's also a good time to do clutch and flywheel maintenance or change.
You may also want to rent or buy a 30 to 36" inch drive extension so that you can reach the top bolts on the flywheel housing from the rear after you tilt the motor.
Modified by White Smoke at 10:23 AM 9/22/2008
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes they are interchangeable. If you are just swapping an AP2 trans into an AP1 driveline you have one requirement and two options.
The AP1 propeller shaft mounts to the AP1 transmission through the companion flange (PN 40441-PCY-010) at the back of the transmission. In the AP1, the 6 mounting bolts (hex key) are M8 x 60 mm front (PN 90812-S2A-000) and 65 mm (PN 90183-S2A-000) in the rear. In the AP2, they are M10 and both ends are 62 mm (PN 90182-S2A-A00). If your AP1 trans is trashed or junked, pull off the companion flange to reuse it on the AP2.

So, you need to pull the AP2 companion flange off of the rear of the trans and replace it with the AP1 companion flange part number above. A 27mm impact wrench and a wheel puller will do the job.
I suggest that you consider buying several of the M8 front bolts as back up. Unless you use a hex wrench with a pristine insertion head (absolutely clean end cut and hex flutes), and some sort of impact you will round out the hex key in the bolt head requiring you to cut off the head to remove the bolt.
Optional part #1 has to do with the clutch slave cylinder. The AP2 version has a delay valve. You may modify it to remove the delay. Otherwise, just use the AP1 slave cylinder.
Optional part #2 is for your speedo. A yellow box will be needed to re-calibrate the factory gauge. This is because the sensor is on the propeller shaft and not the drive shaft. W/O the yellow box your cluster will read a few MPH faster with the AP2 trans.
Be sure to get the proper spline clutch alignment tool before starting the job. You may wish to also get some Honda hi-temp grease to lube the spline, release bearing and bearing guide. Of course, it's also a good time to do clutch and flywheel maintenance or change.
You may also want to rent or buy a 30 to 36" inch drive extension so that you can reach the top bolts on the flywheel housing from the rear after you tilt the motor.
Modified by White Smoke at 10:23 AM 9/22/2008
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