would you do this
I know this topic has been covered a million and one time s but i have a chance at getting a h23 crank and some crower h23 rods and i was thinking of having my shop put them in with my type s pistons and getting it all balanced. Would the motor be reliable at all even if it was all tuned with my hondata and balanced properly i know i could pick up some huge power with this and that s what i m looking for. I dont want to sleeve the block right now and i was going to get this done. I m just looking for a little knowledge and guidance for this situation with my current setup will i see any large gains over my setup right now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builtprelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this topic has been covered a million and one time s but i have a chance at getting a h23 crank and some crower h23 rods and i was thinking of having my shop put them in with my type s pistons and getting it all balanced. Would the motor be reliable at all even if it was all tuned with my hondata and balanced properly i know i could pick up some huge power with this and that s what i m looking for. I dont want to sleeve the block right now and i was going to get this done. I m just looking for a little knowledge and guidance for this situation with my current setup will i see any large gains over my setup right now</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't think the h23 crower rods were made
to accept floating wrist pins.
correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't think the h23 crower rods were made
to accept floating wrist pins.
They can "bush" the rods to fit the pistons, but the rods will be overkill IMO. If you are going to put rods in, you might as well get a FRM compatible aftermarket piston, that way there is fewer weak links. As far as the H23 crank and rods... DO IT! My advise is to clearance the mains a little on the loose side of the specs. I would also grind the crank sligtly to keep the oil squirters.
DO IT! If you get it all balanced professionally. You would make some kiler power! Just like said before though Iwould get rid of the type s pistons and get some that will work easier
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i was at 200/160 before the smsp header i haven t dynoed yet with it but if it s around 12:5:1 comp that s a little more than i want. I m going to get it re dynoed in the next month whenever i can get a day off i just got it back from getting a manual timing belt conversion so maybe in the next week but id rather have the crank and rods in before i go dyno it again
Detonation is the worst enemy of the factory cast pistons. Bumping your compression up to 12/1 or more will only increase the chances of detonation. An aftemarket piston, would be much stronger than the type S. The ring lands on the factory cast pistons are relatively weak, so it is your choice as to what piston to use. Many people have done it with success, but if you are leaving the pistons stock, why upgrade the rods? the pistons then the weakest point of your engine. Just use stock parts and save yourself some money, or build it completely and sleep easier knowing you adressed the weak points.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builtprelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would u get rid of the type s pistons would it be to high compression i was looking for around 12 1 comp and that s about what i ll get right</TD></TR></TABLE>
with the jun foged pistons and an h23 crank and rods wouldn t the comp be off the chart s i m not looking at spending that much money for some pistons either i d rather just sleeve the block and go forged
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