sublimeluder

Hey guys I've been collecting parts for awhile and I'm about to start buid in May. Parts list
nippon type s pistons. Hopefully they'll fit type b bore.
skunk 2 pro1 cams
supertech springs and titanium retainers
KS balance shaft delete
vms cam gears
All new honda and felpro gaskets
I rebuilt head and bottom end a couple years ago so bearings and valve seat should be good. I'm gonna gut stock Intake manifold and bore to match 68 or 70 mm throttle body. What throttlebody would yall recommend to keep sensors?
pnp head by me nothing crazy
I'm still on the look out for a cheap h23a crankshaft
but anyway what injectors would yall recommend. I'm looking at bosch ev14 6 hole 550cc and Bosch In 600cc 5 hole with dual cone spray pattern. The first is from performance fuel injection and the second is injector nation.

TimiK

Its not really wise to buy pistons before your block is honed because you dont know the size beforehand

Na H22 doesn't really benefit much from big tb I tried to upgrade it from stock to skunk alpha 66mm (it uses stock sensors) with skunk IM but didn't really notice the difference so dont overkill it specially with stock IM (you should port it or get there spacer)

If you using normal gas you dont need that big injectors. I have Acura RDX 410ccs

sublimeluder

Cylinder walls are fine perfect compression this isn't my first build and as I said I reringed it 2 years ago. With pro1s it'll need the air and I'm hoping 410cc will be to small. I dont wanna max out injectors or pay for aftermarket fuel rail. Thanks for your post

sublimeluder

I plan on doing the same porting as Nah2b did. Euro r is getting hard to find

TimiK

Unless you go e85 RDXs will be just fine

sublimeluder

I'd love to get rdx since their Oem but it'd cost over $400 after I bought fuEl rail from rosko. Fuel injectors isnt something I want to cheap out on however I think there's cheaper alternatives. I'm trying to find some bosch 440 or 450 but the 550s are cheaper. I know rc and precision makes good injectors and is more in my price range. I was told it's old technology and bosch disc type injectors are better. What would u recommend besides rdx. I've never used top hats and have read about some fitment issues

motoxxxman

1) get rid of the titanium retainers. they WILL fail if this is a street car, and you'll destroy the head
2) if you max out 410's with the described setup, you must have some serious magic up your sleeve
3) don't bother with an aftermarket fuel rail. they do absolutely nothing except look good. Unless you're over 400hp
4) as mentioned, you really should not buy pistons until you have the cylinders inspected and measured. I don't care how many motors you've built/rebuilt; if you don't know the exact size to the nearest 0.0005" of each individual cylinder before buying pistons, you shouldn't be building engines.
5) if you don't want to cheap out on injectors, go straight for ID1050's. You can't get any better than that. And they will idle as smooth as stock, or better. They use tophats, but they are top notch and won't give you any issues
6) add a walbro 255 fuel pump to your list, you'll need it.
7) stock fpr is also fine, in case you were wondering

TimiK

not really - I had same kind of setup with stock fuel pump and it ran just fine with it

motoxxxman

that very well may be. But the age of these cars now, you never know what condition the stock pump is in. and if it isn't starting to fail already, it will degrade a bit faster with a build. And when a pump fails, there's no failsafe to prevent the motor from leaning out and destroying itself when it does happen. So a new pump should always be on the list with a build.

sublimeluder

I plan on running stock fuel rail but i was told rdx injectors with top hats dont fit stock rail without injector boss or rosko rail. I previously rebuilt this engine and cylinder walls looked great. However I didn't write down exact bore. So I'm not sure if a 87mm will fit and I'm impatient so I also just bought some type b pistons lol. Do u need the injector dead times when tuning? I can get bosch ev14 with flow sheets for $230 or I can get Grams for $310 and all injector specs flow sheet, dead time, etc

850Fabrication

I can get you some Fuel Injector Development EV14 525cc for $225 shipped! Badass injectors. I've used them with all my projects

sublimeluder

Thanks for the reply but I just ordered some Bosch 550cc from clean injection. I'll will definitely keep them I mind for my next project though. I'm still undecided on throttle body size. I was set on 70mm but some have said it's to big. Should I go 66 or 68mm? I've still got to source a chpiped ecu. I was thinking phearable unless there's cheaper options. I'm having to drive 2 hours to get dyno tune so I need something reliable.

motoxxxman

I'd offer my services for selling you an ecu, but I just sold the last one I had in stock. Need to get more soon. I warranty all my ecu products, and anyone who knows my work knows it's top notch. And I've never had a single warranty claim in over 15 years of doing it.
So next I'd suggest Phearable or Xenocron.
And by the way, a basemap is a basemap no matter who makes it. A basemap is NOT meant to be driven on at all, let alone long distances. No two engines run identical, even if setup is identical, and even the smallest difference in required programming can and usually will damage the motor. Hence why a full tune is always required. I strongly suggest trailering the car to the tuner when the time comes.

sublimeluder

OK thanks I probably won't start the build until May I'm still hoping to find h23a crank. If u source ecu before then I'd definitely be interested. I was hoping to borrow a friends afr gauge after I installed ecu to make sure it's safe to drive to tune. I'll probably take your advice and trailer it just to be safe.

TimiK

gauge itself doesnt ease the situation if you dont have hondata to do a street tune

sublimeluder

I got my injectors from clean injection. They are genuine bosch ev14 550cc. However they was listed as having a single 30° spray pattern and they actually have a dual spray cone/pattern. From what I've read you've got to clock them 30-45°. It's the same injectors used in the gt500. I saw some grams 550cc 6 hole disc and spray pattern. I'm curious how these will perform in a h22 and if anyone else has used them. There bosch 0280158279

sublimeluder

I forgot to mention I also ordered a 70mm alpha throttle body. I realize this may be a little big for this build but will see. So all I'm lacking is chpiped p28, valve keepers and maybe steel retainers. There's so many mixed reviews with titanium. I would be ok with replacing them every couple years. I'm just worried about being on a road trip and they fail so idk. I've never degreed cams what kit would yall recommend or are they all about the same?

TimiK

puhh Ive had mine several years and nothing wrong with them, also one guy here has used his many years without problems

every part of your engine can fail anytime if you start thinking about it...

sublimeluder

thanks that's what I wanted to hear I debated for months before I ordered them. Yes it's gonna be on my daily but I never take over 7.5k. I think it's mainly b series guys that have them fail. High rpm and not using quality oil on big cams =fail idk will see thanks

motoxxxman

the reason you'll find mixed reviews on titanium retainers is because everybody runs their car differently.
The fact is titanium retainers wear, and titanium is not as strong as most people think.
I'm sure you're familiar with valves dropping. That happens from two things: the stem breaking, and the retainer failing and valve slides through. In the 20+ years I've been doing this, of all the dropped valves I've seen, about 2/3 of them are from the stem breaking, and 1/3 from the retainer failing. And of all the ones I've seen where the retainer failed, all of them were using titanium retainers and were street cars driven frequently.
You can use whichever you want, I'm just advising against titanium for a street car. A lot of people don't ever see failures. But personally, I wouldn't use them if it were my car, not worth the risk. Besides, titanium retainers really only have one benefit: weight, which allows you to rev higher without valve float. But steel retainers are totally fine to 9k. Titanium is really only necessary for over 9k.
However you want to use this information is up to you. I just want you to have the info before making the final decision.

motoxxxman

for degreeing cams, all you need is adjustable cam gears of your choice, and a degree wheel. Pretty much any degree wheel will work, as long as it comes with hubs that fit the crank bolt properly. You can measure your crank bolt diameter to make sure. It simply centers the degree wheel on the bolt so the wheel doesn't get installed crooked.
For cam gears, The only ones I trust are AEM and skunk2. Other brands will either have some slop, or will not actually be at zero when set at zero.

sublimeluder

Thanks I really appreciate your input. I would feel alot safer running steel retainers. I cheaped out and got vms cam gears but I saw some used skunk2 on craigslist. What do u think about making the the valve reliefs bigger for added clearance? I read h22Jones does this on his builds

motoxxxman

It can be done, but it's no easy task. It's best to do with a milling bit, and very very careful hand work with a dremel. I don't think it really serves any benefit though unless you're running a lot of overlap, like a LOT of overlap. If your cams are set up correctly, clearance shouldn't be an issue. If it is, either the pistons aren't perfect, or the cams aren't perfect, or the cams aren't degreed perfect. Best bet is to clay the clearance to see just how much clearance there is, and go from there before modifying anything. If you don't need to, don't do it