good I have an 8 lb flywheel as well --- ACT like I said but sometimes when I engage the clutch I get a little wobble not much but a little bit --- I can feel it but the steering wheel does not move thinking it might be a throwout bearing or the flywheel itself is not balanced?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specialedition &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good I have an 8 lb flywheel as well --- ACT like I said but sometimes when I engage the clutch I get a little wobble not much but a little bit --- I can feel it but the steering wheel does not move thinking it might be a throwout bearing or the flywheel itself is not balanced?</TD></TR></TABLE>All of our flywheels are computer balanced within .25 oz in. What do you mean by wobble. Drop me an email to discuss it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take a 5 lbs weight , tie it to a rope and spin it around above your head. Next, take a 15 lbs weight, tie it to a rope, and spin it around above your head. Which weigh takes less work [eg, power] to spin?
The lighter one, right? Of course It's the same principle w/ the lighter flywheel; since the flywheel is essentially a weight hanging off the end of the crankshaft, when you reduce its mass, the engine can perform the same amount of "work" while exerting less "power." A lighter flywheel doesn't add horsepower, it frees up existing power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Not exactly. Using your example, what happens when you hit the side of someone else's head with the 15lb swinging weight versus the 5 lb weight going the same speed. Obviously the 15lbs carries more force and will send him flying farther.

With a heavy flywheel, you have less power available for aceleration and more power available in storage in the form of inertia. The trick is to get the right balance for your application. For production cars, they use a fairly heavy flywheel to make it easier to modulate the clutch from a stoplight without stalling the motor, or slipping the clutch to death. For performance applications more than likely the stocker is heavier than needed and power is waisted not only spinning the flywheel up to rpm, but slowing it down (important in road racing). For drag racing or street use, having too light of a flywheel may hinder your consistency at the track or be a nuisance on the street. Just my $.02.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACTman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not exactly. Using your example, what happens when you hit the side of someone else's head with the 15lb swinging weight versus the 5 lb weight going the same speed. Obviously the 15lbs carries more force and will send him flying farther.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd left the classical illustration of Inertia out of my example to exemplify the effect of reducing rotating mass. I submit that it was a bit anemic. Thanks for adding to it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With a heavy flywheel, you have less power available for aceleration and more power available in storage in the form of inertia. The trick is to get the right balance for your application. For production cars, they use a fairly heavy flywheel to make it easier to modulate the clutch from a stoplight without stalling the motor, or slipping the clutch to death. For performance applications more than likely the stocker is heavier than needed and power is waisted not only spinning the flywheel up to rpm, but slowing it down (important in road racing). For drag racing or street use, having too light of a flywheel may hinder your consistency at the track or be a nuisance on the street. Just my $.02.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with you, but take issue, only, with your last sentance. I don't drag race, only track days on road courses; anyway, for the street, whatever nuisance the flywheel has been, its dividends at the track far out weight the detriments in street use and I didn't have a particularly difficult time adapting to the new flywheel. My 2 cents.
Regards.
PS: Nice to see a manufacture participating in a discussion without the sole intent of pitching their product.

 

email sent

 

what about some good clutches for the i/h/e etc and possible a jrsc?? anyone running the act ceremic and will it work with a 8lb fidanza?

 

ceramic or organic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...I agree with you, but take issue, only, with your last sentance. I don't drag race, only track days on road courses; anyway, for the street, whatever nuisance the flywheel has been, its dividends at the track far out weight the detriments in street use and I didn't have a particularly difficult time adapting to the new flywheel. My 2 cents.
Regards.
PS: Nice to see a manufacture participating in a discussion without the sole intent of pitching their product.</TD></TR></TABLE>Did I forget to pitch our product? Dang, missed an opportunity again! I'll make up for it later.

Anyway, back to discussion. Good input. I agree, IMO getting used to a lighter flywheel is not that big of a deal. For your type of use (road course) the lighter the better, especially if you are easy on the clutch which I imagine you are. One fact I forgot to mention is durability. The really light flywheels don't have much material to soak up heat and will tend to warp easier and cook the clutch easier than a (properly designed) heavier wheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by damonk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about some good clutches for the i/h/e etc and possible a jrsc?? anyone running the act ceremic and will it work with a 8lb fidanza?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an Exedy OEM replacement clutch on my car now. It's seen 80ooo miles and about a dozen track days, and it's finally starting to give up. I paid 100 bucks for : pressure plate, clutch disk and throwout bearing. I think it's a great product.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACTman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did I forget to pitch our product? Dang, missed an opportunity again! I'll make up for it later.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear word of mouth gets around quickly - need any new products tested ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, back to discussion. Good input. I agree, IMO getting used to a lighter flywheel is not that big of a deal. For your type of use (road course) the lighter the better, especially if you are easy on the clutch which I imagine you are. One fact I forgot to mention is durability. The really light flywheels don't have much material to soak up heat and will tend to warp easier and cook the clutch easier than a (properly designed) heavier wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree completely.

If I could, I'd go lighter. But I'm certain that, due to the point you've mentioned (e.g., the lack of a "heat sink" in the lightest flywheels) it probably would warp sooner rather than later and there most likely is a point of diminished return (although, the Carrera GT has no flywheel, but does have a carbon ceramic clutch, making a comparison between it, and our Hondas moot.)

However, having put 80ooo cumulative miles and roughly 12 track days, on my current 8lbs Al unit. I'm confident in saying they've got a legitimately long service life.

And yes, I am (or try to be) very easy on clutches and the car in general.

 

As i had stated before, ive had absoultly no problems or complaints with the ACT 11.8 lbs flywheel. I had a fidanza 8lb in my hands only to resell it to a user on this site. Talking to a few friends and a few shops, we determined is was a bit to light for my setup and what i wanted to achieve. Also the fact that it was solid aluminum vs chromoly, the heat issue did come up a few times. I guess it all comes down to preference and what you intend to use the car for.

Also, ACTman, have you had any recent complaints about your throwout bearings ?
Or maybe one of your resellers tossed in some bogus T/O bearing. The reason I ask is because we had put in a new one that came with the ACT kit i bought. After the first or second day (about 60 miles) the throwout bearing started making this horrific squeeling noise. Sounds like there is a horse stuck under my car when i release the clutch in first gear. It doesnt happen everytime, but often enough to drive me insane.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found a fidanza on here for i think it was 150 to my door? might have been cheaper. Look for a sponsor with a fidanza flywheel deal. Its gonna be pretty expensive to have the clutch and flywheel installed. It takes about 8 hrs of work on our car to drop the tranny. Labor charges are going to be UGLY. Hopefully you got the hook-ups or someone who has never done an SH </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, it does not take 8 hours to drop a tranny. Maybe it does if you are a retarded monkey, but any competent person can do it in half that time. Last time I dropped mine (with a friend's help) we had the tranny off the car in less than 1 hour, and that was without air tools. Granted, we've done it a few times, but a qualified shop is full of **** if they say 8 hours.

Now, if they say 8 hours to pull the tranny, replace the flywheel and clutch, and put everything back in and test it, then that's pretty reasonable. Some of the local Honda people I know can do that in about 4 hours though, and that's on somebody's driveway.

BTW, I'm surprised nobody has yet asked: "which is better, aluminum or chormoly?". If you want to know the answer, search.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, ACTman, have you had any recent complaints about your throwout bearings ?
Or maybe one of your resellers tossed in some bogus T/O bearing. The reason I ask is because we had put in a new one that came with the ACT kit i bought. After the first or second day (about 60 miles) the throwout bearing started making this horrific squeeling noise. Sounds like there is a horse stuck under my car when i release the clutch in first gear. It doesnt happen everytime, but often enough to drive me insane.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That will happen if the bearing is not greased properly when installed. Also, I can think of a few ways to **** up locating the clutch fork against it as well. It is quite possible that your tech fubared the install, although obviously there's no way of knowing unless the tranny was dropped for a look.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Also, ACTman, have you had any recent complaints about your throwout bearings ?</TD></TR></TABLE>We have had some complaints about release bearings over the years but nothing substantial. We use the same distributor and the same reputable manufacturers for bearings that just about every other aftermarket company does. We have been approached by other cheaper bearing manufacturers but I am leary about the quality. Part of the problem is that we cannot control what our resellers sell to the public because we are still willing to sell individual components to them, not just complete kits. This means they can use whatever bearing they want if they want to save a buck. Not that our bearings are anything special. If anyone has suggestions or other feedback, let me know. E mail preferred. Sorry for off topic.

 

so basically the prolite's matieral is made to withstand heat mroe than the fidanza? but anyway what are some good clutches? ceramic good enough to hold 240whp's? (jrsc)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by damonk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically the prolite's matieral is made to withstand heat mroe than the fidanza? but anyway what are some good clutches? ceramic good enough to hold 240whp's? (jrsc)</TD></TR></TABLE>I won't entertain the whole "us vs. them" thing. My point is that the Streetlite (heavier) flywheel has more material to take the heat than our lighter Prolite. As far as clutches go, ceramic is more for racing. We can easily hold that kind of power with a street clutch and you don't give up smooth engagement like you do with ceramic. If you are always on the track, I would recommend the ceramic.

 

so what clutch would you recommend for mainly street driving/racing and occasional track use with 240whp (jrsc + mods)etc thanks for being so helpful

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by damonk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what clutch would you recommend for mainly street driving/racing and occasional track use with 240whp (jrsc + mods)etc thanks for being so helpful</TD></TR></TABLE>Excuse my ignorance but I am assuming B motor NA, correct? On a healthy 240HP NA the torque would be in the 160-180 range roughly I would guess. I would think our HDSS rated up to 243ftlbs would be sufficient. If you were talking later going forced induction maybe go a little overkill on the clutch and run a XTSS rated up to 320ftlbs. The XT feels stiff on a cable system, hydraulic is not as bad. Email for further discussion if needed.

Didn't want to steal the flywheel thread. Sorry.

 

"Someone is having a sale for supposedly 189$ shipped for the H22 Fidanza.. I guess not bad. But I prefer with the JUN. Its a 12 lb. flywheel. Not to light just in between stock and the Fidanza 8 lb. some have reported before that the starter would grind against the flywheel. but i think the newer batches of flywheel have been corrected."


lol, thats funny cause my friends jun flywheel had a starter grind. the teeth on the flywheel started rounding after a year.