troubles with code 9
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From: calgary, alberta, canada
troubles with code 9
Well, I had other codes but I managed to get rid of those, but now I'm left with code 9. It all started when I hit a big bump and I don't know if something came loose, but I was having 4 codes, it ended up being a loose connection with the oxygen sensor wires, and I fixed that.
The code 9 is the one I can't get rid of! The car itself runs nicely, boosts fine and doesn't seem to hesitate or stall. The only thing it does is sit there staring me right in the face! It's pissing me off cuz I can't get rid of it! Is there any other way to find out if the dizzy is bad or what else the problem could be?
The code 9 is the one I can't get rid of! The car itself runs nicely, boosts fine and doesn't seem to hesitate or stall. The only thing it does is sit there staring me right in the face! It's pissing me off cuz I can't get rid of it! Is there any other way to find out if the dizzy is bad or what else the problem could be?
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From: calgary, alberta, canada
Re: troubles with code 9 (Sephro)
Okay, well, I took apart my dizzy, and inside, there were a few chunks of the cap that fell out. Anyway, the little screw that holds the rotor on was off and it was under the plastic shroud but came out easily. As I took off the shroud and rotor, there was a little piece that looks like half of a yin yang symbol and on the point or tail of it that spins around, there was a little chip on the tip and this is what makes contact with that magnetic strip. Would this cause me to throw cel 9? All the connections in the dizzy were attached.
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: MA, USA
Re: troubles with code 9 (ludelvr)
It could cause the problem.. But I doubt it. I would take the lower half of the distributor apart and see if there are signs of corrosion. If you want you could buy a new cap and rotor. But if the inside of the lower half looks bad I would just suck it up and buy a whole new distributor.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: calgary, alberta, canada
Re: troubles with code 9 (staticrex)
Well, got a dizzy from a buddy and I installed that. Still throwing a code 9! My car does seem a bit faster now however! haha It is and has been eating more gas than usual ever since I got that code 9! What other things could it be? Someone suggested the wiring, but what part of the wiring would throw a cel? What else would cause a code 9?
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Gatineau, Quebec
Re: troubles with code 9 (ludelvr)
I am looking at the service manual now. got a multimeter?
This is what you do:
1. turn off ignition
2. remove clock fuse for 10 seconds (reset ecu)
3. start the engine. Does the light come back on?
4. If yes, remove connector from the CYL sensor.
5. Measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the CYL (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms.
6. If yes, then measure for continuity between the 2 terminals and ground individually.
7. If you have continuity, replace sensor, if no go to step 8
8. connect the system checker harness to the wire harness only, not the ecu
9. measure resistance between C1 and C2 (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms. (when looking at the connector from the front, the pins are in the third group, first top and first bottom).
10. if no, you have an open circuit. repair in the orange or white wire
11. if yes, possible ECU problem.
BTW, a CYL sensor can be overhauled if you want to cut the costs down.
A note of advice here. get a service manual. THey pay for themselves very fast.
fs
This is what you do:
1. turn off ignition
2. remove clock fuse for 10 seconds (reset ecu)
3. start the engine. Does the light come back on?
4. If yes, remove connector from the CYL sensor.
5. Measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the CYL (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms.
6. If yes, then measure for continuity between the 2 terminals and ground individually.
7. If you have continuity, replace sensor, if no go to step 8
8. connect the system checker harness to the wire harness only, not the ecu
9. measure resistance between C1 and C2 (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms. (when looking at the connector from the front, the pins are in the third group, first top and first bottom).
10. if no, you have an open circuit. repair in the orange or white wire
11. if yes, possible ECU problem.
BTW, a CYL sensor can be overhauled if you want to cut the costs down.
A note of advice here. get a service manual. THey pay for themselves very fast.
fs
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From: calgary, alberta, canada
Re: troubles with code 9 (filthy_shovel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by filthy_shovel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am looking at the service manual now. got a multimeter?
This is what you do:
1. turn off ignition
2. remove clock fuse for 10 seconds (reset ecu)
3. start the engine. Does the light come back on?
4. If yes, remove connector from the CYL sensor.
5. Measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the CYL (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms.
6. If yes, then measure for continuity between the 2 terminals and ground individually.
7. If you have continuity, replace sensor, if no go to step 8
8. connect the system checker harness to the wire harness only, not the ecu
9. measure resistance between C1 and C2 (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms. (when looking at the connector from the front, the pins are in the third group, first top and first bottom).
10. if no, you have an open circuit. repair in the orange or white wire
11. if yes, possible ECU problem.
BTW, a CYL sensor can be overhauled if you want to cut the costs down.
A note of advice here. get a service manual. THey pay for themselves very fast.
fs</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, this sounds good, I'll do this, but I do have a few questions. I'm a bit new to this part of my car. First of all, where is the cyl sensor? I have a 94 h22a1 with a chipped p28 ecu so will the wiring still be the same? Also, I tried swapping in my stock p13 ecu but still get code 9. Finally, where are the 2 terminals on the cyl harness and where are ci and c2? Thanks in advance
This is what you do:
1. turn off ignition
2. remove clock fuse for 10 seconds (reset ecu)
3. start the engine. Does the light come back on?
4. If yes, remove connector from the CYL sensor.
5. Measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the CYL (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms.
6. If yes, then measure for continuity between the 2 terminals and ground individually.
7. If you have continuity, replace sensor, if no go to step 8
8. connect the system checker harness to the wire harness only, not the ecu
9. measure resistance between C1 and C2 (shoudl be between 700 and 1000 ohms. (when looking at the connector from the front, the pins are in the third group, first top and first bottom).
10. if no, you have an open circuit. repair in the orange or white wire
11. if yes, possible ECU problem.
BTW, a CYL sensor can be overhauled if you want to cut the costs down.
A note of advice here. get a service manual. THey pay for themselves very fast.
fs</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, this sounds good, I'll do this, but I do have a few questions. I'm a bit new to this part of my car. First of all, where is the cyl sensor? I have a 94 h22a1 with a chipped p28 ecu so will the wiring still be the same? Also, I tried swapping in my stock p13 ecu but still get code 9. Finally, where are the 2 terminals on the cyl harness and where are ci and c2? Thanks in advance
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