I just installed a new timing belt, water pump, and removed balance belt on my H22. It is a 95 JDM and I did the manual tensioner converion.

My first concern is with the tension of the belt. I used the plate piece and noticed that the tensioner is not able to release all the way cause it hits one of the bolts. Anyone else ever have this problem?

Now I did get it on but it seems way to tight. There should be a small amount of play in the belt shouldn't there? If not won't it stress the belt and cause premature wear?

Also I notice on the cam gears and the crankshaft gear the belt is sitting out over the edge maybe 1/16'' or .060

I tried to push it on more but it is all the way on the water pump gear and it doesn't want to go. I turned it over a few times by hand and it seems to want to sit there.

Is that normal? Is it OK?

Also I notice the crank pulley, once I put it on it looks like the timing belt may rub on it. Or maybe once I start it it will seat into place, I don't know. This is my first attempt on my own.

Thanks


Modified by MadCityLude at 11:09 PM 8/1/2006

 

should be fine once you put the crank pulley on. it always kind of walks off when you dont have that pulley on and ur turning the motor over by hand.

 

can you post a pic of whats hitting? if the plate ur talking about is that little triangle piece than you can just get rid of it, as most people do. If the block/head hasnt been decked then yes the belt does feel tight and is a bitch to get on, but thats common and apparently has no ill affects. I just did mine not long ago so I cant say what happens long term, but I've never heard of any probs with it.

 

I have no dig cam.

I can't tell for sure if it is hitting it or not, but it is the backside of the crank pulley, where it has the 45 deg chamfer.

I noticed cause I test fitted the pulley before I put the timing cover on.

As to the tension, if I removed the plate I could loosen the belt some more and the tension would be good I am sure, but then the pulley would lose strength. Maybe if I just grind down the pulley a real little and the bolt too.

 

do you have that washer/spacer lookin thing between the crank timing pulley and the oil pump?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have that washer/spacer lookin thing between the crank timing pulley and the oil pump?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes

 

ok, do you have this thick washer on behind the stud and also that little stud?

 

yes, I followed the directions exactly from there.

 

The only bolt I can see from this pic that would even be close to hitting is the one behind the pulley (the furthest bolt to the right on the triangle bracket) Is that the one thats hitting?

 

I put a red square over where the bolt is!

 

Also is your pic of an H23 or H22, cause it looks dif from mine

 

thats definately not my motor, lol I just stole the pic out of the manual tensioner thread.

there isnt any difference between the blocks, however it may be on an h23 setup that the tensioner never gets down that low to hit that bolt, which could be the reason people leave that bracket out... but it must have worked out for that guy so thats why I suspect something else.

what specifically looks different?

 

the tensioner is adjusted halfway, where as mine is all the way down.

 

yeah, I noticed that too... maybe that was a stock h23 in the pic, not sure.

I know when I put mine on, (without that bracket) that the slot in the tensioner itself was pushed all the way down. Yeah you can argue that the bracket gives you some insurance but if anything comes loose the stud through the tensioner is gonna limit the travel of it and keep the belt tight since its so tight in the first place.


My head has been decked .04" (thats a shitload) and my belt is still tight to put on, but its not bad. I actually put some pressure on the tensioner when I tightened the nut down to take out a little slack, but I dont think you will even need to do that. I wouldnt worry about that bracket, it sounds like you've got evrything else right... but its ur call.

 

so should I ditch the bracket? cause my belt is pretty tight, that is bad isn't it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so should I ditch the bracket? cause my belt is pretty tight, that is bad isn't it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditch it........mine's gone on my setup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My head has been decked .04" (thats a shitload) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I really hope you mean .004"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChrisRicketts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really hope you mean .004"</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, nope .004 isnt a **** load. I cnc'd my combustion chamber and recut my valve seats for oversized valves so it actually comes out to around stock for clearances (everything is offset into the cylinder head)... its just the height of the head that is thinner.

 

i've done all that stuff as well.........but without taking a huge chunk off the head.

i've never heard of a head being cut in hundreths instead of thousandths.

you should re-weigh your car and see how much lighter it is now!

 

well that way I could bump up the squish band a bit witout welding the chamber and ending up with more compression than I wanted, and it put more of the volume in the roof of the chamber where I wanted it (chamber came out to 54.2cc's). Also taking the material off the roof of the chamber bought me a little more valve to valve clearance as the valves are now a little higher in the head.