I need some information slash ideas on how I should set my car up. For Racing/DD/ Mix of both.

Because alot of things can be diffrent like the spring stiffness height rebound/bound setup etc etc the list goes on. Does anyone know what a great setup would be?

I have BC coilovers the BR type on my car from the 4th gen.

Spring rate is 10/5 (10kg front and 5kg rear) Our cars weigh a **** load in the front so it was quite obvious to go with that setup.

At the moment my height in the front from the centre wheel hub to the guard I think is 330mm and in the back 335mm.

So 330/335mm (Not too low or too high it is kind of perfect I don't want rubbing)

My suspension stiffness or rebound/bound settings are

15/20 from 0 being stiffer and 32 being softer. The front is stiffer than the back.

So what I am asking is

What is your preffered setup for performance/racing?

What is your preffered setup for daily driving?

What is your preffered setup for dd and racing?


And one more question to make my suspension last longer is it better to leave the rebound/bound settings on a hard setting like 10 or on a softer setting like 20?

(I am a member of PO and PP I was reffered here by a member (Kronn 98SH)who said I should check this site out and ask because there are alot of suspension pros here!)

Cheers! Hope someone can help!

 

Depends on if you DD your car but want it to run good at the track then i would just have it set semi aggressive and just DD on it like that . Some thing street/race would be like -2.0 degrees neg camber front with about 1" gap between tire and fender in front, and about -1.5(maybe like ~1.1 so not to much understeer) degrees neg camber in back with about a little over 1" wheel gap in back. Its hard to get neg camber with out dropping your ride, you need to get the upper ball joint neg camber kit, to get neg camber without lowering much, the upper control arm anchor bolt style camber kits are only correction kits so they dont give any neg camber, that i have seen. Then ofcourse set your toe to zero in front, and rear, something to do with toe slight toe out in the rears. , that makes your car want to turn better in the turns. and its not too agressive.

You want suspension travel, basically rule of thumb is that you want some downward angle on your lower control arms, if they are parallel with the ground then you are too low. The only other way to get away with not having much suspension travel is Really stiff suspension.

Also if getting serious about RR then you want to get your car to neutral which means reducing under steer, since your springs are weaker in back you could upgrade to a thicker rear sway bar. A sway bar is a great way to get the back to rotate with out compromising ride quality, another way is to put stiffer rear springs in back than the front. or skinnier tires in back than front.

As far as your shock settings just dont put them alll the way to the end of their adjustments in either direction.

To make your suspension last longer:
If you have a true coilover system, then the shock is valved proportionate to the spring rates so your not over wearing your shock, other than that always raise your car off the ground completely if your going to store it more than a 3-4 weeks, that takes the weight off the springs, and shock, and wheel bearings. and tires,.

As for preferred setup for DD also you want larger sidewall on tires for comfort and performance, anything under a 45 is too short a side wall.
Another aspect of where ride comfort comes from is having the suspension soft in the back so just turn your shocks to the soft setting on the street. mostly in rears... My buddy has 12k 6K coilover setup in his ek, but since they are zeal function s6's the ride comfort is amazing. considering the stiffness of the springs.

lastly USE INCHES, we don't measure in metric system here,hahah, later man.

 

I have -1.5° of camber all the way around with no camber kit. My car sits at 1.25" gap front, and 1.5" gap rear.

And yeah, he's a kiwi-lover from New Zealand. So he often posts with metric figures. I've tried to beat it out of him.

 

On the other hand, he's actually using a meaningful measure - wheel hub to fender...as opposed to a less meaningful measure like yours, which is affected by tire size.

 

Stock, dick.