Stroker Kit?
..using the search engine? It's utterly possible that in our world and the probabilities of chance that govern it. Some one, some where, at some time must have had the same profound and astute dillema that presents you today, and lo and behold, eureka!:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=84835
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=84835
Contact Darrin from R&D Dyno of Gardena, CA. Who is he, you wonder. He's just the guy who built L'Natural's motor, you know the quickest all-motor Honda on the planet. He has a 2.5 stroker kit that is doable on 91 octane. I think he mentioned 220+ at the wheels for the setup.
220 to the wheels and he is the fastest honda on the planet? Whats the H22 in? Cause it sure cant be in a prelude. Does the .3L of displacement really make that big of a differance? I would assume he is running high compression pistons also, probably 13:1. How is it that All motor Ludes, like JGLuders all motor beast can run low 13's with only 260whp, but it seems like it takes more HP for the boost and juice guys to get the same times.
You're kidding right. 220 wheel horsepower ain't gonna cut it nowadays, even in a CRX. That stroker kit is a streetable version - again doable on 91 octane. If you have the moola to run racing fuel everyday, then the sky's the limit as far as compression limits are concerned. Oh, that .3 difference in compression equals turbo upgrade to some, as in F-1.
You might wanna contact Jeff from Import Builders from Santa Ana, CA too. His ITB setup, that he claims does 20 mpg sounds, real nice.
You might wanna contact Jeff from Import Builders from Santa Ana, CA too. His ITB setup, that he claims does 20 mpg sounds, real nice.
You stated he is the fastest all motor Honda in the world, so I am a bit confused. The crower stroker kit looks awsome, billet rods, billet crank, and forged pistons all balanced for drop in installation equals a bullet proof engine. Then use the cams of your choice, boost or juice for some good FI, and alot of tuning time to get it to perfection. Hell, if I get 210whp out of my motor after the rebuild, I would be pretty happy, and let the juice do the job for racing. I wonder I much juice I could run safely on a completely rebuilt H22?
[Modified by Toretto, 5:16 AM 2/9/2002]
[Modified by Toretto, 5:16 AM 2/9/2002]
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Yes, Crower makes a stroker kit that will bump up your CC to 2500ish... A lot of people have said 2.5 liter is the most you want to bore to for street use.. going past 2.5 liters makes the cylinder walls too thin, and you're liable to blow your motor. And yes, having a 2.5L H22A makes a TON of power. Refer to the old post that has the 2.6L H22A dyno in it, I think it was 228 hp to the wheels. And about 175 ft lbs of torque if I remember correctly.
That would be an insane N/A car.
Jay
[Modified by Diversion, 12:48 AM 2/9/2002]
That would be an insane N/A car.
Jay
[Modified by Diversion, 12:48 AM 2/9/2002]
158 to 161 is the typical stock WHP.
That sort of loss is too great for a car at 200hp stock, so i've always believed that 5th gen Preludes are really rated at 190 to 195 horsepower.. not 200.
Jay
Stroker kits are nice, but you can say good-bye to a high redline. Personally, I'd bore the cylinders out to give you 2.3 liters after you resleeved and rebuilt the bottom end.
With the stroker kit, you dont bore out the cylinders, or do you? The way I understand it, from the crower website, it just makes for a londer stroke, so the pistons move up and down further than they used to. And along with the stroker kit, you could bore the cylinders out, and get even more displacement, but might not be worth it , just incase you need to have it bored out down the road cause of an engine failure. Laughin2.2, when you say no high RPM, do you mean less than we have stock? With a completely rebuild engine using the stroker kit, and some new cams, I would bet than you could stilll rev freely to 7500+, yea, that no 9300 rpms, but its not bad, and since I will be running nitrous, I wont really need a high reving engine. Anyone know how much nitrous I would be able to run?
It was somthin like that before it blew up. I know it was high for all motor.
OK, I was just doing a search, and have noticed alot of negative things about stoker kits, such as reliablity issues, and its not really worth it when the risk is considered. So I am pretty much cancelling out that idea. Laughin2.2, you are going to be running nitrous, and so am I, do you know if we can run nos and have a high reving engine? I know after a rebuild, the revablity goes up, and alot of that has to do with the cams, but could I run nitrous and still have a high reving engine? I was thinking maybe use the nitrous from about 3k to 7k rpms, and then let the VTEC power get me to about 9k rpm. Since I will want a forged crank for the massive amount of nitrous at the tracks.
[Modified by Toretto, 6:40 PM 2/9/2002]
OK, I was just doing a search, and have noticed alot of negative things about stoker kits, such as reliablity issues, and its not really worth it when the risk is considered. So I am pretty much cancelling out that idea. Laughin2.2, you are going to be running nitrous, and so am I, do you know if we can run nos and have a high reving engine? I know after a rebuild, the revablity goes up, and alot of that has to do with the cams, but could I run nitrous and still have a high reving engine? I was thinking maybe use the nitrous from about 3k to 7k rpms, and then let the VTEC power get me to about 9k rpm. Since I will want a forged crank for the massive amount of nitrous at the tracks.
[Modified by Toretto, 6:40 PM 2/9/2002]
1. With the stroker kit, you dont bore out the cylinders, or do you?
2. Laughin2.2, when you say no high RPM, do you mean less than we have stock? 3. Anyone know how much nitrous I would be able to run?
2. Laughin2.2, when you say no high RPM, do you mean less than we have stock? 3. Anyone know how much nitrous I would be able to run?
2. I'm honestly not sure, but the complaint that I here with stroker kits is that you lose revability. Can anyone back me up on this or prove me wrong?
3. As much as you want after you take the piston cr and fuel octane into consideration.
Well, I never hit 260whp... I was probably in the 220's untuned, and 230-240 tuned (which I never had a chance to get. :mad
But we'll never know for sure I guess. JG Built my motor for 220 whp w/o cams (cause they don't make them)
And w/o a few other goodies I had. I think that 20whp with tuning on this set of cams and VAFC etc. was feasable. However, I try not to speak with definate certainty, cause like I said, we'll never know for sure.
L'Natural is running 270 whp I believe. However, when the old school skunk teg was running mid 11's, he was only putting down 220.
Anyway, I have heard bad things about the stroker kit. I talked to JUN back in the day (over two years ago), and they said they made a kit, but never had any luck with it, so they scrapped that idea. Now, if JUN scraps an idea, it's pretty bad. I don't know what their thoughts are on it now...
Oh, and you can bore to roughly 2.5L. It's 90mm and not the most streetable bore. I know someone with it, and I saw his motor before reassembly. (Full out race car) The sleeves have to be notched to fit next to eachother! I went with an 89mm bore, and it yields about 2.35L as opposed to the stock 2.15. So about .2L more. You still have a little room to screw up and bore again if you, oh... drop a valve and scar a cylinder wall...
(sound familiar?)
Anyway, thats just make take on things.
But we'll never know for sure I guess. JG Built my motor for 220 whp w/o cams (cause they don't make them)And w/o a few other goodies I had. I think that 20whp with tuning on this set of cams and VAFC etc. was feasable. However, I try not to speak with definate certainty, cause like I said, we'll never know for sure.
L'Natural is running 270 whp I believe. However, when the old school skunk teg was running mid 11's, he was only putting down 220.
Anyway, I have heard bad things about the stroker kit. I talked to JUN back in the day (over two years ago), and they said they made a kit, but never had any luck with it, so they scrapped that idea. Now, if JUN scraps an idea, it's pretty bad. I don't know what their thoughts are on it now...
Oh, and you can bore to roughly 2.5L. It's 90mm and not the most streetable bore. I know someone with it, and I saw his motor before reassembly. (Full out race car) The sleeves have to be notched to fit next to eachother! I went with an 89mm bore, and it yields about 2.35L as opposed to the stock 2.15. So about .2L more. You still have a little room to screw up and bore again if you, oh... drop a valve and scar a cylinder wall...
(sound familiar?)Anyway, thats just make take on things.
I'm honestly not sure, but the complaint that I here with stroker kits is that you lose revability. Can anyone back me up on this or prove me wrong?
If you just put a stroker crank the stock block along with custom shorter rods, then the motor won't be as rev happy because of the poor rod to stroke ratio.
Anyway, thats just make take on things.
90mm is crazy, although not as crazy as 260 n/a whp. I know someone who went there with his h22. Blew headgaskets non-stop.
Nice, one heck of a motor to build on. In my above post I was talking about a stock crank/stroke, just a 90+mm bore. The sleeves were so thin they leaked in the corners...
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