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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 07:13 AM
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Default Spring rate question

I have ground control coilovers with kyb agx's. Wandering what sring rate would be good for my 95 Honda Prelude Si VTEC. Will be abusing it on every auto-x, and road course event possible. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 07:20 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

The higher the spring rate the stiffer the spring. The higher the spring rate the stronger the shock you are going to want. Those shocks you have now should be pretty good.

If you want anything stronger or better than what just an aftermarket spring can offer, you are going to want a complete coilover set-up, that you can adjust according to the event you are attending.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:14 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

I have a similar setup on a 97 Prelude and use 440 front springs and 380 rears. I autox and daily drive the car in the summer and winter with little issues other than an annoying *** bumpy ride in the winter

These rates are apparently the middle of the road. Not super stiff and not soft. IMO it's a great ride and very predictable in autox.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 01:52 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

10k/8k f/r for me
a little stiff for DD..but not extremely stiff
autox every other weekend
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:16 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

10k in front? Wow. I'm looking for some oversteer to counteract all of my understeer. Honestly I've driven enough preludes to the point I can adjust to one then adjust to another. I'm just looking for the stiffest springs possible to cancel out ANY understeer. I have every other chassis stiffing part known except a roll cage and thats on the way soon. Just trying to get a good idea of what to start with. I've been researching this topic and noticed that rwd vehicles tend to have stronger springs in front, while fwd vehicles are exactly the opposite in order to cancel out understeer. I appreciate all the feed back though everything is really helping me.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

with my setup..i get the rotation i want and need controllably
i also have a progress rear swaybar
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:11 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

Another guy told me this "AGXs aren't going to handle those kinds of spring rates. You need a revalved Koni sport or a purpose built race shock for those kinds of rates. I currently run 750 front and 950 rear, and I've though about going a little higher in the front. I tried 1,200 rear and it was a little stiff. I don't daily drive my car though (it's a race car, and not street legal). I wouldn't go above 450 or 500 lb/in with AGX shocks."

I don't understand. Why won't they be able to handle a stronger spring rate? My current setup:

1st Lude:
Tanabe Underbraces F&R
Tanabe Sway Bars F&R
Nopi Strut Bars F&R
Kyb AGX struts
Ground Control Coilovers

2nd Lude:
Suspension Technique Spings
Suspension Technique Sway bars F&R
Tanabe Underbraces F&R
Nopi Strut bars F&R
Kyb GR2 Struts
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Default Re: Spring rate question

he's right. it will be severly underdamped and most likely you will have a bouncing problem. if anything, skimp on the springs, but not the shocks.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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117's Avatar
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Default Re: Spring rate question

Like I said in my PM to you, the shocks will not have enough damping force to adequately control the motion of the suspension with spring rates that high. You can try it, but I think you'll be very disappointed. The shock makes a huge difference in the handling of the car. For rates as high as you put in your PM (1,000 lb/in, IIRC) you need a race shock, or a revalved Koni sport.

If you want to reduce understeer get rid of the aftermarket front sway bar and reinstall the factory front sway bar. Also go with a rear biased spring setup. See how that works for you.

The bracing probably isn't doing a whole lot to make the car stiffer, but that's another conversation entirely. What I'm trying to say is that the bracing isn't going to affect the tendency of the car to oversteer or understeer. You probably have more compliance in the bushings that the chassis.
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