lude98SH

Ok guys those of you who are not familiar with my car I have removed my atts unit and am running an h22a now with an m2a4 trans. Ive been wanting to run a traction bar on the car but since no one makes them for the SH model it hasnt been possible without switching many things over. From what Ive read what I must do to run the traction bar that was orginally designed for the base model is switch over the knuckles, lcas and ucas and then it should work correctly. Am i correct ?

Another question should everything still bolt up the same ? Struts, brake caliper bracket ? Do they run the same tie rod ends or anything steering related ?

BTW i dont think he said much about it since its release but precisionh23's traction bar is out. Id like to see if maybe we could do a group buy or something with it, if others are interested.

vinuneuro

And also the subframe. I knew the front subframe (#5) had to be changed because the way the radius rod attaches at both ends is entirely different, but it looks like the rear subframe (#2) has a different p/n as well.

Btw, you realize the advantage of the SH geometry from the factory is reduced torque steer and greater steering linearity right? Plus, the SH comes from the factory with much higher caster, which is a good thing. I wouldn't change the SH suspension to the Base design.

Shibahata returned to his old domain, suspension design, briefly. During this sojourn, he designed a new front suspension for high-power front-wheel-drive cars. The "double joint" suspension is adopted in the American SH and Japanese S coupe models in order to take full advantage of the greater steering feel, linearity and tremendous cornering power offered by ATTS. In place of the normal single pivot compliance bushing on the suspension's lower link, the double-pivot suspension has one pivot each for the trailing diagonal link and the lower I-arm. The geometry minimizes torque steer effects, and reduces longitudinal input load by as much as 14% and vertical load by 8%.

lude98SH

hmmm but the only thing that bolts to the rear subframe is the lca. Has anyone done this and knows of any fitment issues ?

I understand what you are saying my reasoning is traction and the weight drop that comes with it. The only real option get a traction bar for the SH however it doesnt seem like there is much interest besides myself and a few other people on here.

lude98SH

bump

lude98SH

my thinking was is the weight savings, extra room and added traction worth it ? What i need to know is if the struts will bolt up correctly. Also why would the rear subframe be different ? The only thing that should matter with that is how the LCA bolts up otherwise it shouldnt matter.

Has anyone done this on an SH yet ?

Sir Kyle

^^^ Ya the guy swaped the car to a base front suspension. Waste of an SH. Euro R was pretty sweet though.

nicokpe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sir Kyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ Ya the guy swaped the car to a base front suspension. Waste of an SH. Euro R was pretty sweet though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup

lude98SH

hondata = no atts which means its dead weight, so why not ?

Sir Kyle

Do it if thats what you want. You should have started with a base is all.
If you want a drag racer or powerful car use a base. If you want a autox/circut car use an SH.

lude98SH

I understand that but i bought this car when i was 16, do you think I knew I was going to go this far with it at that point.


Modified by lude98SH at 9:09 PM 5/2/2008

Sir Kyle

Ya I thought that might be a possibility, I almost didn't say anything. Good luck on the swap

lude98SH

well the guy on prelude online isnt answering my private messages. My question is what else needs to be switched other than the knuckles, uca and lca. Struts ? And rear crossmember ? Does anyone know for sure, I cant find much on this.

lude98SH

bump

Also does anyone know the weight savings ? I remember it being around 15 lbs or something.


Modified by lude98SH at 2:32 PM 5/26/2008

KrazzyKarl27

Hey Im the guy who did the trac bar on the SH. Let me be clear and complete about what needs to be done. Its not all that bad!!!

First you need to convert you front suspenion to a BASE setup. I found some parts really cheap on eBay. $150 shipped! for a full base front suspension!

Heres what you need:

Knuckles/spindles
Upper control arms
Lower Control Arms
Tie Rods
Wishbones (v-fork/shock fork)

tools you will need:
impact wrench
36mm impact socket
Tie Rod splitter
Grease
New cotter pins
Torque wrench
and something to break the torque of the screws that hold on the brake disk
and wouldn't hurt to have a manual and a buddy to help out!


I would get some new bushings for the parts and new wheel bearings while your at it! Trust me, i learned the hard way!

Basically pull it all apart and make sure you dont mix SH and BASE parts! they look alike but ARE ALL Different! I KNOW THIS.

Grease all your new bushings. Tighten everything to torque spec. Trac bar fits amazing! Use Loc-Tite on every bolt/nuts you use with the trac bar.

THE FIRST PLACE YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR SHOULD BE AROUND YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD TO MAKE SURE YOUR **** DOESNT FALL APART

THE SECOND PLACE SHOULD BE A SHOP THAT DOES ALIGNMENTS! YOUR CAR WILL BE OUT OF ALIGNMENT SO BADLY IT WILL ALMOST BE SCARRY TO DRIVE ON THE ROAD.

while your at it. Check your brakes. might want to just do a reagular check up on it.

any questions e-mail me at: SchranzKT@gmail.com

or if you have questions about EuroR swaps

KrazzyKarl27

weight savings out the ***!!!! the stock front subframe weighs so much its crazy! Do not need to touch the rear subframe. Ive got performance brakes and koni shocks so im unaware if you need to replace those.

Sir Kyle

Good freakin info buddy. I know people have been looking for this. Especially this guy.

lude98SH

Thanks sooo much man this helped me out a ton. I just a a few more questions and I should be good to go.

ok so the rear crossmember can stay ?

Also the whole strut assembly stays except the fork ?

And for the tie rods, your talking about just the tie rod ends correct ?

KrazzyKarl27

Heres what you need to do:

leave rear cross member alone. The cross section of the cross member that goes under the downpipe will have to be removed for the traction bar. because that part attaches to the OEM front subframe that you are removing.

I know that I only changed out the shock forks. left the shocks (koni) and the shock caps can stay the same

You are way better off going to advanced auto or autozone and buying new tie rods for a bas. yes you only get the ends i believe. Dont buy used ones, they usually suck (mine sucked so i got new ones)

lude98SH

ok last thing I just want to make sure your only talking about the outer tie rod ends.

And lastly does anyone know if the strut fork from a base will work correctly on an SH strut ?

KrazzyKarl27

rumor has it that SH struts (OEM) are fatter than BASE ones. Thats why some people have problems putting Eibach springs with SH struts because the SH struts were a tad too wide. It would be rough to have to buy some performance shocks or OE ones to do this traction bar.

vinuneuro

The Base fork will work on the SH shock. The difference between the two shocks actually stems from the fact that the front SH springs are slightly longer. Accordingly, the perch on the SH shock is slightly lower on the shock body.

lude98SH

good **** man. Thanks everybody ill be ordering the stuff i need in the next few days and post up my results.

vinuneuro

You're ordering all this stuff new? You can get all this stuff at the junkyard new. Replace the bushings in the lower arm. Order the uca from honda since the bushings aren't sold separately.

lude98SH

not new but new to me. Ill prolly buy stuff from ppl on here or ebay or something.

Junkyards arent really a good option around here hondas get STRIPPED.

UCA im not sure what im going to do. I know Mfactory is supposedly to come out with an adjustable UCA but Im not sure how long.

Do you think ES inserts on the LCAs is worth it ?

vinuneuro

Absolutely not. Not only do they require periodic lubrication (and sometimes squeak despite), they tend to not last very long, and bind in locations like the control arms.