Besides resleeving, putting some forged 8.5:1 pistons and some rods, what else do I need to replace to run high boost (between 15 and 25 psi)?

 

a standalone would be a good idea

 

Probably a good idea to upgrade valvetrain ie valves, springs, retainers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a standalone would be a good idea</TD></TR></TABLE>Necessary in my opinion.

No need to change valves, springs, or retainers. If you want to you can, but it's not necessary for high boost.

As far as the engine goes, you don't necessarily need to change alot. Rods, pistons, sleeves is about it. You might also want to replace the oil pump gear with a prodrive unit.

 

valve springs and retainers to stop valve float and definately a standalone

 

Valve float is due to high rpm, not high boost.

 

build the bottom end and sleeve it, the head work is just for extra few hp and to make you fell all warm and fuzz around 9500 rpm. Btw see my H22 build up at http://www.teaminterlude.com in the tech section under H22 swap. you can view some of my mods under my setup on the same site (Ima2nr). I'm making 415 whp on 93 octane at 17 psi without tuning my cam gears and still running really rich 9.5:1

I broke my axle, so I have to wait a few weeks to see how much it will make fully tuned on 93 octane (450+?)

also, I'm NOT reving the motor past 8400 rpm. it's not necessary to make the power, so why kill the engine?

 

youll need valvesprings for HIGH boost, and a standalone. and of course all the little things

why 8.5:1 thats pretty low. i plan on running 25+psi on 9.6:1

 

Valve springs have nothing to do with boost. Why do people keep talking about valve springs.

Ima2nr is totaly correct. Any headwork you might have done is for hp only. It's not needed for boost. I run 1 bar on my daily driver with totaly stock valvetrain, I could easily take it up to 20-25psi with race gas and I have no worries about the valvetrain being able to handle it.

 

well the way it was explained to me, when running high boost, the pressure will not let the valves close all the way, so stiffer springs are needed. i was going all out so i did it whether or not i needed to.

 

That makes sence. The exhaust valves are actually helped closed by the extra pressure of the intake charge, so stronger springs would be useless there. Really even on the intake valves, the pressure for the incoming air/fuel is very minor compared to the inertia the spring has to counteract from the valve being flung outward at high velocity. It's not really an issue unless your intake valves are on the very edge of floating already.

If you are replacing the valve springs, I would suggest stainless exhaust valves. If you're really going with that much boost, the slightest lean condition will burn the exhaust valves. Of course, if you're going with that much boost, you would be more into the performance aspect, and probably reworking the whole head.

 

So a good forged set of 9.5:1 pistons, some eagle rods and a resleeving job should do the trick? Will a JDM LSD tranny help out or should I stick with my USDM H22 tranny and add a quaife* LSD?

 

sorry for the quick post----

I meant my car was running very rich (9.5:1 air/fuel ratio) not 9:1 compression ratio.

my compression ratio is 9:1--- crower rods, wiseco pistons, totoal seal rings, darton sleeves, new honda bearings
I have the JDM tranny with a quaif LSD. I don't have any opinions on the USDM tranny under boost. Can anyone tell us if there is even a gearing ratio diffrence?

 

Couple more questions:
--How much boost can I potentially push with 9.5:1 compression (tunned)?
--What size injectors are recommended...440cc?
--Is a ball bearing turbo worth the extra $300-$500?
--Any suggestions on which sleeves to get?

 

dirty lude, i can see 25 psi from a big turbo pussing open the intake valves, but ive never boosted stock parts so i cant say.

size of injectors depends on you whp goals.

i have 9.5:1 pistons, 83# injectors, i plan on over 25psi and 500whp

 

H22Prelude, I would do a some searching here, and in the FI forum. How much you can run depends on alot of factors and size of injectors depends on your ultimate power goals.

I have a ball bearing turbo, and I can't say as it's worth it. I should have just saved the money on that turbo and got a regular rebuildable turbo.

Sleeves would probably be either Darton (installed by a local shop) or GE. There's lots of posts on sleeving, if you can find them. There are other options, but those are the most popular right now.

 

contact RC engineering and tell them how much hp you want to mak, and they will calculate what size injectors you will need. I told them I wanted to make 600 hp, and they suggested 1000cc injectors. I have the AEM standalone and my car idles smooth and I have plenty of injector left even at wide open throttle. alot of people said the car wouldn't idle with those injectors, but I can prove them wrong.

you can run as much boost as you like with any compression, it all depends on the stability (octane) of the fuel. a 11:1 compression B16 with 4-5 lbs of boost will make approx 300 whp just like a 9:1 compession B16 with 12-15 lbs of boost will make 300 whp. both make the same hp, but the low compression engine is easier to tune, and less likely to detonate.

I find it interesting that the turbo F1 cars run as high as 16:1 compression with .4 bar (5.88 lbs) of boost... (enter the no turbo lag-turbo engine). but they run a mutch more stable fuel than 93 octane gasoline.

 

I would like to pull off between 300-350 hp and I don't want to go to low of a compression mainly for the reason of lag. I like running @ 10:1 with 9psi but it's just not enough power anymore. Thanks for input guys.

 

I have an 94 integra LS/VTEC that is 12.5:1 compression fully built (192 whp daily driver). I have discussed adding a turbo to it with ED SYNF the dyno tuner. He said it's harder to tune, but with about 4-5 psi it would make around 300 hp to the wheels. I trust his opinon fully, and he knows that I need daily driver reliability. He did say that I need to sleeve (close the deck) it for that hp level AND reliability.
he also said it would have absolutely no turbo lag.

looking at your first post---- pistons, rods, and sleeves at 10:1 compression won't be a problem at all with proper tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ima2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an 94 integra LS/VTEC that is 12.5:1 compression fully built (192 whp daily driver). I have discussed adding a turbo to it with ED SYNF the dyno tuner. He said it's harder to tune, but with about 4-5 psi it would make around 300 hp to the wheels. I trust his opinon fully, and he knows that I need daily driver reliability. He did say that I need to sleeve (close the deck) it for that hp level AND reliability.
he also said it would have absolutely no turbo lag.

looking at your first post---- pistons, rods, and sleeves at 10:1 compression won't be a problem at all with proper tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see this working. That would be a tuning nightmare and could potentially be unstable and unreliable. I would imagine that you would have to make many changes all the time to get that thing to run right.

 

you'll need new injectors higher than 440 for sure. Probably upgrade intake fuel pump, fuel rail, fuel lines, stand alone and BB is a plus for the turbo some say it's worth it. You also ask about about the LSD, myself I'm just going to get a Quaife to go along with my built block.

 

i agree w/10:1, thats what i was going to go with. but they only had 9.5 in the size and brand i wanted.

 

So, if I were to stick with 10:1, how much boost can I potentially push with the proper parts and tunning. And what kind of hp/trq #'s am I going to be looking at?
Is anyone else running this setup (turbo @ 10:1)?