replacing alernator...?
i have a feelin my alternators DYING or dead, headlights go dim at idle, idle dropps incredibaly low when i shift to neutral and such..
anyways, i'm searching for a new one and i have a few questions:
1) is there a sure fire way to check that the alternator is actually bad? I know i'm suppose to check if the battery voltage goes from 12 to ~14 when i start the car but thus far i have not been able to get my hands an a volt meter
i'll get around to it... i was also told to stick a metal screw driver near the alternator and if it doesn't have a strong attraction, it's gone. Which i tried and tie coils didn't attract much, if at all.. hard to tell.
2) Any particular brand recommended? or should i just go OEM? any idea how much one of these go for at a dealership? Any online retailers recommended?
3) maybe the most important, I was told that the procedure is rather simple, 4 bolts and a plug? i'll get my hands on a helms sooner or later, but that just takes too long
if there arn't any walkthrough online.. would someone be willing to scan the helms for me?
any help would be appreciated, so thanx in advanced :D
anyways, i'm searching for a new one and i have a few questions:
1) is there a sure fire way to check that the alternator is actually bad? I know i'm suppose to check if the battery voltage goes from 12 to ~14 when i start the car but thus far i have not been able to get my hands an a volt meter
i'll get around to it... i was also told to stick a metal screw driver near the alternator and if it doesn't have a strong attraction, it's gone. Which i tried and tie coils didn't attract much, if at all.. hard to tell. 2) Any particular brand recommended? or should i just go OEM? any idea how much one of these go for at a dealership? Any online retailers recommended?
3) maybe the most important, I was told that the procedure is rather simple, 4 bolts and a plug? i'll get my hands on a helms sooner or later, but that just takes too long
if there arn't any walkthrough online.. would someone be willing to scan the helms for me?
any help would be appreciated, so thanx in advanced :D
TESTING
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15 to 20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.
Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.
Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15 to 20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.
Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.
Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by puffxy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx all
so.. no one actually knows where i can find instructions for replacin it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ask and you shall receive
1992–95 Prelude
With the ignition OFF, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the power steering pump. Refer to Section 8 for complete procedure.
Remove the cruise control actuator but do not disconnect the actuator cable; simply move the unit out of the way with the cable attached.
Unplug the multi-pin electrical connector.
Remove the terminal nut and remove the wire from the terminal.
Fig. 8: Alternator mounting on 1992–95 Preludes
Loosen the through-bolt, then loosen the adjustment locknut and bolt.
Remove the belt from the alternator.
Remove the adjustment bolt and nut.
Remove the through-bolt, then remove the alternator.
To install:
Fit the alternator into place. Install the upper through-bolt finger-tight.
Install the adjustment bolt and nut.
Install the belt and adjust the tension. Tighten the through-bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) and the adjustment locknut to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Connect the wire to the terminal and tighten the nut.
Engage the multi-pin connector to the alternator.
Install the cruise control actuator.
Install the power steering pump.
Connect the negative battery cable
so.. no one actually knows where i can find instructions for replacin it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ask and you shall receive
1992–95 Prelude
With the ignition OFF, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the power steering pump. Refer to Section 8 for complete procedure.
Remove the cruise control actuator but do not disconnect the actuator cable; simply move the unit out of the way with the cable attached.
Unplug the multi-pin electrical connector.
Remove the terminal nut and remove the wire from the terminal.
Fig. 8: Alternator mounting on 1992–95 Preludes
Loosen the through-bolt, then loosen the adjustment locknut and bolt.
Remove the belt from the alternator.
Remove the adjustment bolt and nut.
Remove the through-bolt, then remove the alternator.
To install:
Fit the alternator into place. Install the upper through-bolt finger-tight.
Install the adjustment bolt and nut.
Install the belt and adjust the tension. Tighten the through-bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) and the adjustment locknut to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Connect the wire to the terminal and tighten the nut.
Engage the multi-pin connector to the alternator.
Install the cruise control actuator.
Install the power steering pump.
Connect the negative battery cable
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