Possible LMA problem
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Possible LMA problem
Already searched and just came up with itr stuff.
The problem is that Ive done many Valve adjustments and ticking keeps coming back, from what ive heard, it may be the LMA's. Please let me know if Ive been led in the wrong path. I still need to do a Leak down/compression test. I also need to test the rocker and see if it releases pressure easily from the LMA when vtec is not engaged. Thank You.
Modified by 4gen at 4:54 PM 10/30/2003
The problem is that Ive done many Valve adjustments and ticking keeps coming back, from what ive heard, it may be the LMA's. Please let me know if Ive been led in the wrong path. I still need to do a Leak down/compression test. I also need to test the rocker and see if it releases pressure easily from the LMA when vtec is not engaged. Thank You.
Modified by 4gen at 4:54 PM 10/30/2003
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Re: Possible LMA problem (4gen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4gen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Already searched and just came up with itr stuff.
The problem is that Ive done many Valve adjustments and ticking keeps coming back, from what ive heard, it may be the LMA's. Please let me know if Ive been let in the wrong path. I still need to do a Leak down/compression test. I also need to test the rocker and see if it releases pressure easily from the LMA when vtec is not engaged. Thank You.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have the same prob. and it is the LMA. at first i did a valve adj to see if the prob would go away, but it persisted. i bought a helms maunal and when i have the free time im going to check my LMA's and replace them if needed and check to see if the rocker arms are still good or not.
The problem is that Ive done many Valve adjustments and ticking keeps coming back, from what ive heard, it may be the LMA's. Please let me know if Ive been let in the wrong path. I still need to do a Leak down/compression test. I also need to test the rocker and see if it releases pressure easily from the LMA when vtec is not engaged. Thank You.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have the same prob. and it is the LMA. at first i did a valve adj to see if the prob would go away, but it persisted. i bought a helms maunal and when i have the free time im going to check my LMA's and replace them if needed and check to see if the rocker arms are still good or not.
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Re: (pentaq)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">titanium? Rather not. But you can put ITR LMA's which are stiffer a bit and fit H22A valvetrain.
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, but they also cost like $35/lma vs. me getting h22 ones at my dads discount for like $25/lma. Oh and btw, there is 8 of them. $280 vs $200
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, but they also cost like $35/lma vs. me getting h22 ones at my dads discount for like $25/lma. Oh and btw, there is 8 of them. $280 vs $200
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Re: (4gen)
BTW, anyone have a helms to lookup difficulty of changing the lma's? Does it involve removing the head? Thanks guys, i appreciate all your help, this is driving me insane.
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Re: (pentaq)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4gen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, anyone have a helms to lookup difficulty of changing the lma's? Does it involve removing the head? Thanks guys, i appreciate all your help, this is driving me insane.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the helms manual doesnt really specify how to remove them or give a step by step of how to. it just says to remove them. you can leave the head on the block when removing the LMA's.
if anyone knows how to remove the LMA's that would be great. ill be needing to do mine soon.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">titanium? Rather not. But you can put ITR LMA's which are stiffer a bit and fit H22A valvetrain.
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
the ITR LMA's would fit with some modification. the ITR LMA's are a bit taller then the prelude LMA's. in order to make them fit you would have to mill/grind it to specs to fit properly. and its not worth it b/c ITR LMA's are 35 a piece vs prelude LMA's @ 8 dollars a piece. and with performance theres no difference.
the helms manual doesnt really specify how to remove them or give a step by step of how to. it just says to remove them. you can leave the head on the block when removing the LMA's.
if anyone knows how to remove the LMA's that would be great. ill be needing to do mine soon.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">titanium? Rather not. But you can put ITR LMA's which are stiffer a bit and fit H22A valvetrain.
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
the ITR LMA's would fit with some modification. the ITR LMA's are a bit taller then the prelude LMA's. in order to make them fit you would have to mill/grind it to specs to fit properly. and its not worth it b/c ITR LMA's are 35 a piece vs prelude LMA's @ 8 dollars a piece. and with performance theres no difference.
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Re: (NAR Cd7 Lude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the ITR LMA's would fit with some modification. the ITR LMA's are a bit taller then the prelude LMA's. in order to make them fit you would have to mill/grind it to specs to fit properly. and its not worth it b/c ITR LMA's are 35 a piece vs prelude LMA's @ 8 dollars a piece. and with performance theres no difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No they do not need any modification and are not taller- I had both of them in my hands and they looked the same, but ITR lmas were way stiffer. I have them put in my engine without any mods.
8$? You must be talking about 5 gen LMA's then. I was suprised when I did cost comparsion between 4g, 5g, ITR and Civic B16Ax engines. The 5g lma was the cheapest one because it is different from the other ones (primally I thought about putting Accord Type R lmas- but they are the same as in 5g lude).
It occured that B16, B18 (ITR) and H22(A1/A2) LMA's are interchangable. So I have ITR stuff in my lude. What's more 2point6 confirmed usablity of those lmas in H22
greetz
pentaq
the ITR LMA's would fit with some modification. the ITR LMA's are a bit taller then the prelude LMA's. in order to make them fit you would have to mill/grind it to specs to fit properly. and its not worth it b/c ITR LMA's are 35 a piece vs prelude LMA's @ 8 dollars a piece. and with performance theres no difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No they do not need any modification and are not taller- I had both of them in my hands and they looked the same, but ITR lmas were way stiffer. I have them put in my engine without any mods.
8$? You must be talking about 5 gen LMA's then. I was suprised when I did cost comparsion between 4g, 5g, ITR and Civic B16Ax engines. The 5g lma was the cheapest one because it is different from the other ones (primally I thought about putting Accord Type R lmas- but they are the same as in 5g lude).
It occured that B16, B18 (ITR) and H22(A1/A2) LMA's are interchangable. So I have ITR stuff in my lude. What's more 2point6 confirmed usablity of those lmas in H22
greetz
pentaq
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From: NAR SPEC.com, So Cal, US
Re: (pentaq)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No they do not need any modification and are not taller- I had both of them in my hands and they looked the same, but ITR lmas were way stiffer. I have them put in my engine without any mods.
8$? You must be talking about 5 gen LMA's then. I was suprised when I did cost comparsion between 4g, 5g, ITR and Civic B16Ax engines. The 5g lma was the cheapest one because it is different from the other ones (primally I thought about putting Accord Type R lmas- but they are the same as in 5g lude).
It occured that B16, B18 (ITR) and H22(A1/A2) LMA's are interchangable. So I have ITR stuff in my lude. What's more 2point6 confirmed usablity of those lmas in H22
greetz
pentaq
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shes is speaking of 2000 Prelude LMA's they are 8 dollars a piece.
You're building your motor by eye-balling it?
Have you ever considered using a mircometer? or is your eye that accurate?
And if you think logically.. how can the itr be stiffer??
Stock itr cam = 11.5mm lift vs Stock prelude cam = 12mm lift.. so isn't it logical that the prelude would have the same amount of pressure if not more due to the size of the cam?? hmm something to think about.
Did 2point6 use a micrometer? so whatever 2point6 does is good for you? you don't need to measure??
A 2000 prelude LMA is .040 shorter than an itr.. can you eye ball that buddy??
if you put in an itr it pushes up the rocker arm .040 more.. which can cause premature rocker wear... which in the long run will **** up your motor... well either way.. you don't measure clearances while building your motor its bound to **** up. good luck to you.
No they do not need any modification and are not taller- I had both of them in my hands and they looked the same, but ITR lmas were way stiffer. I have them put in my engine without any mods.
8$? You must be talking about 5 gen LMA's then. I was suprised when I did cost comparsion between 4g, 5g, ITR and Civic B16Ax engines. The 5g lma was the cheapest one because it is different from the other ones (primally I thought about putting Accord Type R lmas- but they are the same as in 5g lude).
It occured that B16, B18 (ITR) and H22(A1/A2) LMA's are interchangable. So I have ITR stuff in my lude. What's more 2point6 confirmed usablity of those lmas in H22
greetz
pentaq
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shes is speaking of 2000 Prelude LMA's they are 8 dollars a piece.
You're building your motor by eye-balling it?
Have you ever considered using a mircometer? or is your eye that accurate?
And if you think logically.. how can the itr be stiffer??
Stock itr cam = 11.5mm lift vs Stock prelude cam = 12mm lift.. so isn't it logical that the prelude would have the same amount of pressure if not more due to the size of the cam?? hmm something to think about.
Did 2point6 use a micrometer? so whatever 2point6 does is good for you? you don't need to measure??
A 2000 prelude LMA is .040 shorter than an itr.. can you eye ball that buddy??
if you put in an itr it pushes up the rocker arm .040 more.. which can cause premature rocker wear... which in the long run will **** up your motor... well either way.. you don't measure clearances while building your motor its bound to **** up. good luck to you.
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Re: (00 FBP ItR)
0.04 of an inch is 1mm... I would notice the difference when comparing both lmas. Avoiding further pleas- car is running, no problems with valvetrain, made almost 20kkm with this setup.
peace
pentaq
peace
pentaq
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From: labcabincalifornia
...okay, back to the question at hand.
if you're building an H22, is it worth it to change over to ITR LMAs? the answer seems to be no.
...and 4gen's question hasn't been answered yet, has it? does he need to replace his LMAs? or is he having other issues between his valve/rocker arm clearance?
if you're building an H22, is it worth it to change over to ITR LMAs? the answer seems to be no.
...and 4gen's question hasn't been answered yet, has it? does he need to replace his LMAs? or is he having other issues between his valve/rocker arm clearance?
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Re: (pentaq)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">0.04 of an inch is 1mm... I would notice the difference when comparing both lmas. Avoiding further pleas- car is running, no problems with valvetrain, made almost 20kkm with this setup.
peace
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea.. sure... thats alll you can say..?
lol.. great builder you are!
peace
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea.. sure... thats alll you can say..?
lol.. great builder you are!
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Re: (iakona)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...okay, back to the question at hand.
if you're building an H22, is it worth it to change over to ITR LMAs? the answer seems to be no.
...and 4gen's question hasn't been answered yet, has it? does he need to replace his LMAs? or is he having other issues between his valve/rocker arm clearance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it is not worth it nor is it beneficial to run the itr lma's.
If he's ticking... try a valve adjustment if it persist change the lma's.
hope that helps.
if you're building an H22, is it worth it to change over to ITR LMAs? the answer seems to be no.
...and 4gen's question hasn't been answered yet, has it? does he need to replace his LMAs? or is he having other issues between his valve/rocker arm clearance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it is not worth it nor is it beneficial to run the itr lma's.
If he's ticking... try a valve adjustment if it persist change the lma's.
hope that helps.
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From: Lakeville, MN, USA
Re: (00 FBP ItR)
I noticed this "rattling" sound in the valve train before and after my engine build, and it is only until the motor is warmed up, and only in the 2500-4000 rpm range.
LMA? Sure sounds like it. If someone could tell us how difficult it is to replace them, or if there are any consequences to not replacing them, that would be great.
LMA? Sure sounds like it. If someone could tell us how difficult it is to replace them, or if there are any consequences to not replacing them, that would be great.
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Re: (00 FBP ItR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No it is not worth it nor is it beneficial to run the itr lma's.
If he's ticking... try a valve adjustment if it persist change the lma's.
hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, it is beneficial, thanks for all your guys' help. The ticking has persisted through 4 valve adjustments. Ill test the LMA's to see if there is a good rebound, and if that seems to be the problem then ill purchase them from honda, In your opinion, do you think i should replace all 8? Im assuming so to just be thorough and have all your parts being of same usage and all.
Still havent received a rating on difficulty for replacement...i know one of you luders has the helms lookup i need...
No it is not worth it nor is it beneficial to run the itr lma's.
If he's ticking... try a valve adjustment if it persist change the lma's.
hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, it is beneficial, thanks for all your guys' help. The ticking has persisted through 4 valve adjustments. Ill test the LMA's to see if there is a good rebound, and if that seems to be the problem then ill purchase them from honda, In your opinion, do you think i should replace all 8? Im assuming so to just be thorough and have all your parts being of same usage and all.
Still havent received a rating on difficulty for replacement...i know one of you luders has the helms lookup i need...
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Re: (4gen)
Found this photo on hondatuning.com:
If the H22 head is similar to the P72, than replacing the lma's just takes removing the cams and pulling out the lma's with needle nose pliers.
This is the original Article: A CRX B18C Build
http://www.hondatuningmagazine...ject/
If the H22 head is similar to the P72, than replacing the lma's just takes removing the cams and pulling out the lma's with needle nose pliers.
This is the original Article: A CRX B18C Build
http://www.hondatuningmagazine...ject/
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From: Houston, Tx, USA
Re: (4bidden)
from what i see in my helms 96-98 LMA's are the same and 99+ are different. But then honda says that 93-97 LMA's are the same and 98 and newer are the same. just something to make you say, Hmmmm.
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From: Peabody, MA, USA
Re: (Fly1865)
If you look at the picture posted by 4gen, you can see that you need to remove the valve cover, the upper bearing surfaces for the cams, the cam gears and shaft, and also the rockers and rocker shafts. The LMA's can tick when they need replacing, and it can come and go as they are cold/hot and/or when they have oil spraying on them. On my '95 GSR, if I let it idle the ticking would go away and then as soon as I started driving it would start again. The way I figured how many to replace at once is: OEM parts, probably all seen the exact same number of miles, so while I'm in the head might as well replace them all. I'd rather not have to go and replace one 2 months down the line. But that is just me, also I contacted a machinest that I had do block and head work for me in the past, and he ordered me the LMA's for $15/piece. The Acura dealership near my house wanted $59 and the cheaper place I order parts from in FL wanted $30.
~SKY~
~SKY~
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