92hondalude

My car started overheating about 2-3 weeks ago.
it would only overheat after driving for about 10 mins.
it would not overheat while just idleing.
*edit* i forgot to say it will go back to normal if you turn the heater on fool blast.

So i thought it might be the thermostate. I canger the thermostate.
so i looked at my radiator and it looked pritty shitty so i thought that might be the problem...change the radiator with a koyo OEM replacment......still overheated.
im running about 50% coolant and 50% water.
someone told me to bleed the system and i heard of about 50 thousand was to bleed it and dont know the actual way to bleed it.
any help would be great.
Thanks,
Nick B


Modified by 92hondalude at 11:27 PM 8/5/2006

Speedra500

there is a little bleeder valve on the top of the thermostat housing, just unscrew it a little while the car is running and squish and move the hoses below the thermostat or any high points as to move air to thermostat housing

92hondalude

just tryed bleeding it.... a little air came out but not much.
could my temp sensor be bad cause my car had just started to overheat (3 bars)
so i turned the car off then turned it back on and it was then like 4 or 5 bars.
then i turned it offf again and back on then it was normal 2 bars all within a matter of 15 secounds.

WillyG

okay this is going to sound odd but trust me...it works. check the ground on your drivers side motor mount. the ground im talking about goes from the shock tower to the motor mount to the valve cover. When i painted my valve cover my car started overheating like mad (or so i though) because i never scrapped off the paint in that one spot so i am assuming it gave all the sensors a bad reading. well once i took care of that everything went back to normal, and i realized that my car never actually overheated, it was just the temp gauge telling me it was. my fans never kicked in either, because the car never actuallly got warm enough because i wouldn't let it (it would have shown the temp to be all the way in the red at that point) but yet i never had a boilover or anything. seriously, just check that ground and get back to me because i am betting that's your problem as i had the SAME EXACT thing happen to me.

Pullig

Heres the way i do it. Make sure to fill up the radiator leave off the pressure cap. Start the car let it warm up . It may start to try and come out of the radiator . So just put the cap on it either when the car gets to normal temperature or when the radiator starts to over fill. Whichever comes first. Then ill open up the bleeder screw . Just leave it open till you get a steady flow of coolant and no air bubbles then close it off. Take it for a ride. Come back and let it cool down. Then top off your coolant.

92hondalude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WillyG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay this is going to sound odd but trust me...it works. check the ground on your drivers side motor mount. the ground im talking about goes from the shock tower to the motor mount to the valve cover. When i painted my valve cover my car started overheating like mad (or so i though) because i never scrapped off the paint in that one spot so i am assuming it gave all the sensors a bad reading. well once i took care of that everything went back to normal, and i realized that my car never actually overheated, it was just the temp gauge telling me it was. my fans never kicked in either, because the car never actuallly got warm enough because i wouldn't let it (it would have shown the temp to be all the way in the red at that point) but yet i never had a boilover or anything. seriously, just check that ground and get back to me because i am betting that's your problem as i had the SAME EXACT thing happen to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>
tryed that. that wasent it but thanks for trying.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedra500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a little bleeder valve on the top of the thermostat housing, just unscrew it a little while the car is running and squish and move the hoses below the thermostat or any high points as to move air to thermostat housing</TD></TR></TABLE>
tryed that i got some air out and it still over heated.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pullig &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heres the way i do it. Make sure to fill up the radiator leave off the pressure cap. Start the car let it warm up . It may start to try and come out of the radiator . So just put the cap on it either when the car gets to normal temperature or when the radiator starts to over fill. Whichever comes first. Then ill open up the bleeder screw . Just leave it open till you get a steady flow of coolant and no air bubbles then close it off. Take it for a ride. Come back and let it cool down. Then top off your coolant. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i will try this.
dose anyone have any other sugestions?

92hondalude

bump for some help

elnoyl

i had a similar problem and unfortunately it turned out to be a blown head gasket. Is your coolant leaking into the overflow at all? Does your system build pressure? Check this by squeezing the upper radiator hose.

92hondalude

i just built my motor and it has less then 2k miles on it.
i put a cometic headgasket and arp headstuds on there to prevent this!
wouldnt i feel a loss in power if my headgasket was blown?

MugenHonda

you probably have a bad water pump, the bearings that turn the pump are bad thus not enough water moving throughout the engine

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just built my motor and it has less then 2k miles on it.
i put a cometic headgasket and arp headstuds on there to prevent this!
wouldnt i feel a loss in power if my headgasket was blown?</TD></TR></TABLE>

never hurts to do a compression test on it,
did you spray any copper coating on the head gasket?

92hondalude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

never hurts to do a compression test on it,
did you spray any copper coating on the head gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no copper coating...
i will try a compression test....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably have a bad water pump, the bearings that turn the pump are bad thus not enough water moving throughout the engine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was thinking this...i hope that is what it is.

elnoyl

that's funny, i also used arp head studs along with a cometic head gasket which is the same setup. I didn't feel a loss of power what so ever and i just said screw it and swapped the motor due to circumstances. My compression was 240 in cylinders 1,3 and 4 and 235 in cylinder 2 on a stock motor. Is your coolant going out the overflow? Does your system build pressure when it's warmed up?

92hondalude

will run compression test tomarrow....
i hope its the water pump

tempting2taanzaa

So, what happened with your overheating issue? I'm going through the same thing myself and am looking for some tips. I had someone do a valve job for me and said that the water pump was changed. I never had the problem with the temp rising to 4 or 5 bars but am seeing that maddening 3 bar thang!

92hondalude

i forgot to say if you turn the heater on full blast it gose back to narmal temp.

tempting2taanzaa

Mine seems to overheat when I travel at speeds higher than 70 with the A/C on. I can sit at idle or lower speeds and not have a problem. Or if I am on the highway doing greater than 70 if I turn the A/C off then it falls back to normal.

92hondalude

ran a compression test....
250 240 250 250

esedulerp5tenin

has anyone tried removing the thermostat completely??

i just did the civic 1/2 rad, and my temp gauge gets to the third bar when driving in 100 degree rush hour traffic for an hour, so i'm gonna remove the t.stat and see where that gets me

92hondalude

im pritty sure i got all the air out now also.....
now the only thing it could be is the water pump or bad sensor right?
what are the signs of a bad waterpump?

Hawkze_2.3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what are the signs of a bad waterpump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Overheating

Seriously, though I'd check the sensor just in case, but if it was a bad connection or brken sensor it would probably read zero temp instead of a hot temp...

Sounds like it could very well be your pump.

92hondalude

k
i will take it somewhere i hate doing water pumps... unless the engine is out of the car lol.

tempting2taanzaa

I removed the thermostat. I didn't see any improvement. I remember I had gotten a power flush done on the radiator a few years back and the flow of the coolant damaged the t-stat somehow and it ran cool all the time. Of course at the time I wasn't having overheating issues...

tempting2taanzaa

I had someone pressure test my rad and they found a crack in it. Hopefully this will cure my problem.

alterdcreations

does your rad fan turn on?