el3vate

I spent hours trying to get it to stay on, but no luck.. Then I tried the old o-ring, and it fit in perfectly.. no problems. But after a drive around the block this morning, I got a huge oil leak. I tightened the oil cooler bolt by hand, then about 1/2 more with the wrench. The filter of course I tightened by hand and then 1/4th more. The leak is definitely not from the oil drain bolt. I should have checked for leaks last night, but was too dark.

I'm going to go down to the dealership to see if I can get another one. I might have stretched the ring in attempt to put it on the first time.

My questions: How tight is the oil cooler bolt supposed to be?
I am going to attempt this again, but already filled my car with fresh oil.. Is it alright to do it by just taking the filter off and not draining the oil?

five-0

You're OK. You'll lose a little oil...but not all. Good luck.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by el3vate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Comparing the old ring with the new one I notice the old one is a little wider, and is stiffer so it wont bend as easily. It looks like this is the reason why it would stay in easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're old o-ring will fit in easier because it is stiff, old, cracked, and flattened up.

The new one should be round so it will look a little different.


Try grease like one of the other guys said.

BTW: If you have a Carquest in your area, you can get the part there.

The part# is 72229

el3vate

I think I finally got it to stay.. But I hope it stayed in the groove when I screwed the bolt back in. You don't know how nervous I felt when the ring was in on all sides.. I've spent hours this weekend trying to get this damn ring to stay on, and screamed the f word so many times!

How tight am I supposed to tighten the bolt w/ my 30mm socket? I just hand tightened it as hard as I could. Someone told me a little more then an oil filter.. Can anyone confirm this, or should I do it tighter?

Your right about the old o-ring fitting easier b/c its old and stiff probably being the reason why its leaking oil. However, the new ring seemed a tad bit larger then its supposed to be, hence the reason it is so hard to keep on. I could get it in the groove on all the sides except one, and did this for hours.

Thanks for all th help guys, and keep it comin.

ThinkTANK

Oh man!

i think i have this exact problem too!! 92si 150k miles

from what i have noticed, if this is indeed the same oil leak issue...there is a little rubber cover which hides a button switch thing. On mines, i notice that there is alot of oil coming out from that part. Ihave the helms service manual, but could never find anything regarding this part and how to replace/repair it.

I don;t know if this is the root of my problems but i sure hope so.

my car leaks and burns oil. theres always a puddle on my driveway. and when i drive, black smoke comes out of the exaust. and sometimes white.

black/blue is oil
white is radiator fluid.

i dont know why or how radiator fluid is getting into the exhaust. i think i need to get insurance on my car and drive it to the mechanics for a check up.


btw, email me at btsocket@hotmail.com if you know of anysolutions! thx!

el3vate

That rubber plug is right under the oil cooler. I saw oil on there too, but it's most likely oil leaking onto it from the cooler. The 2 hoses on my oil cooler are slightly leaking also, but it looks like a bitch to remove and replace considering the amount of space in there. All of this would be so much easier if you could get your car lifted.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ThinkTANK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh man!

i think i have this exact problem too!! 92si 150k miles

from what i have noticed, if this is indeed the same oil leak issue...there is a little rubber cover which hides a button switch thing. On mines, i notice that there is alot of oil coming out from that part. Ihave the helms service manual, but could never find anything regarding this part and how to replace/repair it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're talking about the oil sending unit,
It has a rubber plug that covers the electrical part of it.

Try the electrical section of the Helms or look in the index.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by el3vate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That rubber plug is right under the oil cooler. I saw oil on there too, but it's most likely oil leaking onto it from the cooler.[/quote)

that's a good possibility.


[QUOTE=el3vate]The 2 hoses on my oil cooler are slightly leaking also, but it looks like a bitch to remove and replace considering the amount of space in there. All of this would be so much easier if you could get your car lifted.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could buy some cheap ramps at wal-mart

Put tighter clamps around the hoses where they connect to the oil cooler
if you think it's leaking from there.

ThinkTANK

[QUOTE=SKDRCR]

You're talking about the oil sending unit,
It has a rubber plug that covers the electrical part of it.

Try the electrical section of the Helms or look in the index.
[QUOTE]

Thanks... i'm going to take a look in my helms this weekend. hopefully its just that and nothing else.
But you don't think thats the reason why its burning oil...right? hopefully valves,rings are fine.

thanks!

btw, any updates to OP situation?

Daemione

Out of curiousity, has anyone ever replaced this seal on an SH? Pretty sure I've got a slow leak coming from there, but replacing it promises to be a total pain in the *** since you can't see a damn thing given the SH filter location.

Daemione

Did this today on my SH - actually wasn't too bad once I got enough light down there to see what I was doing. Just push the throttle cable out of your way & unplug the EGR vacuum tubes to give youself as much space as possible to work.

Once you get the oil cooler unbolted (30mm socket, btw - thanks Billy . . .), you can push/turn the entire assembly over while still attached to the coolant hoses, and hold it down like that with like a long prop from above (I used an 18" screwdriver). Then you can fit your remaining hand down there to fudge around with the o-ring. I used some non-hardening gasket-in-a-tube to keep the new o-ring in it's groove while I was bolting it back together . . . worked like a charm.

So hopefully this stops my slow leak. Although the old o-ring wasn't actually in that bad shape, no breaks. Although it did have a series of cracks all along the inside of it. Only other place I can imagine it coming from in my case is from the oil-pan itself, so I guess that'll be next if this doesn't do the trick.

LudeyKrus

I had to replace the oil cooler on my car, so here's the only advice I can give:

- Try to get a hold of a set of those really long, pistol-grip pliers first. I know they sell a good cheap pair at Harbor Freight, but I can't seem to find them anywhere else. It makes life MUCH easier when trying to get to those damn factory hose clamps in the engine bay.

- Drop the downpipe, drain the oil, remove the oil filter, and unhook everything so it's easy to work back there.

- The main nut holding the oil cooler on is IIRC a 30mm bolt-thing. Rent the 30mm axle socket from Autozone. The bolt-thing is very thin, so get both hands in there, and push the wrench onto the bolt with one hand and turn the socket with the other.

- The hoses are a royal bitch to get out most of the time. Once again, the pistol grip needle nose pliers are a blessing at getting them out. The hoses will be stuck on the metal nipples good, so if they're really old, you may need a razor to cut them off.

- When you are halfway done w/ the job, replace the factory hose clamps w/ the type that tighten up w/ a screwdriver. Turn them on the hoses so you can get along screwdriver straight to them from the bottom, and it's MUCH easier to get them back on and tightened.

Just FYI!