(STYLES)

how about if i for got to take out the oil plug for b20 vtec kit because i went back to a stock gsr block would that matter

let me know please!

thanks guys

(STYLES)

im having a vtec Engage problem and i had a b20 vtec and now i went back to a gsr and i forgot to take out the b20vtec plug off the head would that be the problem

accord00z

I drive a 94 accord EX (f22) and my RPMs wont go past 5200! i read 98% of what everyone posted on here and I just don't know where to start. People keep saying that I have a "Non-VTEC" ECU, but I would like to hear from someone with a little more expertise. Can anyone help please? it is driving me crazy

Eli1203

i have a 94 accord ex and i recently had to chang the spindle and lower passenger control arm and on my old spindle ther was a mount where i belive it to be where i mount the vss or abs sensor im not sure if thats what it was for but on my spindle i got from the junk yard there is know hole for me to mount the vss and know my vtec is acting all up it kicks in super late of first like aroung 5500 rps and on second it goes crazy after 4200 rpms it gose on and of like about 3 time and in third noting at all ok know can some 1 tell me is that sensor a vss or abs cause i know with out a vss sensor conected the vtec wont engage but im not 100 cause the speedometer still reads just fine ??

es_squared

Very informative post.. I just wanted to see if anyone could narrow down the solution to my problem. I went to get my car tuned (boosted recently), and for some reason whatever the tuner set the vtec engagement to, once it hit that specific rpm, the motor would misfire like crazy, not going any higher. Anybody know what would make vtec do this?

thegatekeeper14

does vtec work off a cable vss?

also my vtec works only one time after i first drive my car then it stops till i let it sit?

thegatekeeper14

bump

dopematic

hey guys, im having trouble with my ls vtec... the ls vtec conversion was done about 4 or 5 years ago.. and ran like a champ and has been sitting inside my garage for about a year or two.. i recently swapped it into my 96 gsr and vtec does not engage.. i tested and changed out the vtec solenoid a couple of times,also the net is very clean, i checked for continuity of wires from the solenoid to the ecu and it was all good. what im wondering is that if any of my sensors.. such *** the vss/speedo, vtec oil pressure switch, tps sensor ever goes bad..... shouldn't i get a cel that tells me that? or no?

just for reference.. the motor ran fine and had a strong vtec engagement before.. i cant seem to figure out what the problem is..

can anyone here help me out.. any suggestions?

eghatch420

Hey guys, I've come across a problem with my vtec not engaging. I have looked over the thread and will be checking everything stated tomorrow when it is day time. However, I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me on where to start. My vtec normally engages around 4500-4700 and pops HARD, I have a b18b1 block with a vtec head (the previous owner said it was it-r head but after some research I think it is a GS-R head). In the last few days my vtec has been temperamental and I can hear the valves pop open, but as the my rpm's move up the power band, it almost sounds like they pop closed and sometimes they don't open at all. My car is revving to it's normal redline (7200) but it is obvious that vtec doesn't want to engage every so often. This is all I can really say right now without going to far into it. Sorry for the long post and if anyone has questions to help me find a solution to this problem feel free to ask, I will try to respond asap. As I said, I have neglected to check anything just yet, but will be starting tomorrow when it is light.
Thanks everyone.

p.s.- By the way I do have a decent sized oil leak, may be coming from the steel braided oil line from the back of the block to the top of it. Also may be a rear main seal leak or many other things, I'm on a tight budget right now so I haven't had the money to get these things fixed right away.

CivicTec

I drive a '99 civic vtec B16a6.
Will post pics later...
My engine light is on, i check the ecu code and i get 7 which is tps sensor, i bought a new sensor, fitted it... management light still on.....I took off the battery terminal for a few hours, checked the wires for any breaks and all checks out fine.
Anybody have an idea or suggestion to what i can check or what could be causing the problem?
And oh obviously vtec doesnt engage, but while i drive if i switch the ignition off and quickly back on, rev the above 5500rpm vtec kicks in yo', but not normally as it should.

jasongeist

u need to set your tps to .5v closed throttle and at open it should be 4.5v to do that u need key in on pos and use volt tester on red tps wire. my tps wasnt right and my cel light would go on and off for tps every now and then

theguitarist

I know it won't kick in if your blowing oil through your brand new distributor, actually if your car cuts off randomly and you think it's the cat, check the dizzy cap, cause mine had oil at the bottom of it and it also fried the little pieces the rotor cab spark off of. That was the only problem I had with mine works great now

kings85

im having some problems with my vtec:S as alot of people stated
mine lude doesnt pass the 6500rpm also....
i clean the solenoid and then vtec engage only 2 times after
cleaning it....i have read all of what everyone posted but don't know
exactly what it is.. i havent check oil pressure, and i have no CEL's at all
does anyone know?

jdm.boi408

Does anyone know why my VTEC wont engage anymore after I accidently did a short circuit on the engine ????

bcp7272

My hondata is throwing a Heated O2 sensor code.....My knock sensor is disabled,I have a RPM and VSS signal. I am getting no signal to activate the vtec. HELP!!!!

minilogoguy18

^If you have a CEL you wont have VTEC. >_>

boostedteg1785

I have ran into. Vtec engagement issues simply. By using Lucas Oil stabilizer. Vtec seems to be a great setup, just tweaky at times. My 94 gsr is the first Vtec car I have owned, and I like it.... But I am definitely going to find a good set of killers for my turbo build.

low13da9

i have a b16 ..stock p72 ecu..i dont have the knock sensor plugged up..is that my problem?????

stick000008

Heres my issue i been stumped for sometime now, anyone with info chime in. I have a crx with a built ls/vtec hondata s300 chase bays engine harness setup. My problem is the harness they shipped me is an obd1 setup, so it has a vss plug and my trans is cable. So my computer doesnt read any mph, it hits launch control and vtec wont ingauge. Is their anyway to bypass or trick the system without converting to hydro.

fred2028

I have an Accord 2002 EX 3.0L. Recently I had an issue with the engine light coming on when accelerating from 4000 RPM and +. The engine light would come on with the TCS light. Afterwards, the engine seemed very sluggish with half its’ power.

After doing some research, I found out it was either the solenoid valve, VTEC pressure switch or a clogged screen inside the solenoid housing assembly. To add to my problems, I also found an oil leak coming from the solenoid valve assemble housing. Apparently this is a common leak on the Accords which is very hard to detect. Just to make sure, I applied a dye in my oil and inspected with a UV light. It was pretty obvious.

The housing assembly (seal, solenoid valve and VTEC pressure switch included) is around $210. The pressure switch alone is $90. To troubleshoot my problem, I bought the seal which was $15 in order to remove the housing assemble and inspect the screen located on the seal itself.

I proceeded to start removing the entire housing assembly. I disconnected the VTEC pressure switch and inspected the wire / connector. It seemed in good shape. I disconnected the solenoid connector and found the wire completely corroded off the connector. This was the smoking gun concerning the engine light coming on when accelerating. I fixed the wire to connector and installed the new seal on housing. Re-install housing and re-connected the connector for the solenoid and pressure switch.

After driving the car for 100 miles + no engine light and no oil leak. The moral for this story is, if in doubt when trouble shooting start with the simplest / cheapest things to replace. I could have spent $210 for the whole solenoid housing assembly as I was recommended by the Honda dealer and I still would have had the same problem.

Just a thought.....

fred2028

I have an Accord 2002 EX 3.0L. Recently I had an issue with the engine light coming on when accelerating from 4000 RPM and +. The engine light would come on with the TCS light. Afterwards, the engine seemed very sluggish with half its’ power.

After doing some research, I found out it was the solenoid valve, the VTEC pressure switch or a clogged screen inside the solenoid housing assembly. To add to my problems, I also found an oil leak coming from the solenoid valve assemble housing. Apparently this is a common leak on the Accords which is very hard to detect. Just to make sure, I applied a dye in my oil and inspected with a UV light. It was pretty obvious.

The housing assembly (seal, solenoid valve and VTEC pressure switch included) is around $210. The pressure switch alone is $90. To troubleshoot my problem, I bought the seal which was $15 in order to remove the housing assemble and inspect the screen located on the seal itself.

I proceeded to start removing the entire housing assembly. I disconnected the VTEC pressure switch and inspected the wire / connector. It seemed in good shape. I disconnected the solenoid connector and found the wire completely corroded off the connector. This was the smoking gun concerning the engine light coming on when accelerating. I fixed the wire to connector and installed the new seal on housing. Re-install housing and re-connected the connector for the solenoid and pressure switch.

After driving the car for 100 miles + no engine light and no oil leak. The moral for this story is, if in doubt when trouble shooting start with the simplest / cheapest things to replace. I could have spent $210 for the whole solenoid housing assembly as I was recommended by the Honda dealer and I still would have had the same problem.

sgodoy

PLEASE HELP HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm new to the forum so please be easy on giving me ****. i have done a lot of research, i have used the search bottom non stop and i have read every damn post that i could find. please one help.

info
97 ls integra
b16 head
chipped ecu

my setup is lsvtec, had it done by a mechanic. vtec will not engage. i have tried two different ecu (my chipped p28 and a hondata ecu) still no vtec. i have swapped out soleniod, tested each one making sure they click when powered. still no vtec. oh yea no check engine lights are on. made sure oil was getting to the head by removing oil line and starting the car, oil got everywhere.. vtec is wired to the jumper harness so i know the pins are making contact, had the wiring checked my to different mechanics . i ran 12v straight to the solenoid connected to a switch, made sure the solenoid clicked when i flipped the switch. drove the car to about 4800 rpm and hit the switch still no crossover..

i guess my question is does anyone have any ideas what i can try next. also i spoke to another mechanic who works at a local performance shop. he was saying that the issue could be in the actual head. something about some pins missing on each side. (not sure what he was talking about) is there anything in the head that could be missing causing vtec not to engage but still let the car run fine with no cel?

please anyone help..
thank you sergio

Hadi Law

I have the same issue as you. I have a 1999 civic si with a b16a and Vtec won't pop. I checked it all. No CEL, or VSS issues. Tested solenoid, cleaned solenoid, new head gasket. Sometimes it seems like vtec pops but it's very faint, not like what it should be. Any help would be great! Thanks.

H_T_LUDE

i appreciate the info you guys have posted, more useful than the manual i bought. However,
Perhaps someone could elaborate on what engine components could cause low oil pressure that would make for a delayed engaugement of the VTEC system.
I read above about the oil pan volume being decreased by dents, can this cause low oil pressure? my only concern is that im hitting VTEC at 6000rpm and its a strong pull but have felt more at that very same rpm a couple months ago.
Now im aware that the tollerance in the main bearing caps where the oiler spouts on the crank can have to much runout that cause low oil pressure and that perhaps the oil pump itself might have wear, but are there any other contributing factors or components that can cause a low oil pressure?

anonymus913

Hi ppl. I have a serious issue. My vtec just will not work. I'm throwing vss code. And that's the only cel I'm throwing. I changed it 3 times along with the cluster twice. Cluster reads rmp but not mph. Before my vtec used to work just fine. Alive n healthy. Then the mph gauge started jumping around and the vtec would cut in and out. Then the mph gauge stopped working and so did the tec. I'm lost. Help anyone? Btw motor has 60 thousand miles it's strong. Oh yea my rev limit is 6500