Originally Posted by mattsnooz

looks good!

I like the kit, and the car. Whites the best!, white power lol jk

I'm doing a stock block turbo on an h23 at the moment. I wouldn't mind knowing how the fitment was for everything? It appears you have PS still no problem and being its a "log" manifold I think its called, you were able to keep AC as well? I'll be using a log manifold as my desired output isn't huge, nor is my pocket book, and would also like to keep it as a DD with functioning AC and PS. I just recently repaired and recharged my AC and got it running so wouldn't mind keeping it.

I kept AC/PS/CC and my washer fluid. The only thing i sacrificed (not a big deal) is the power steering cooler. Fitment was fine, it just makes everything cramped is all. Dont think you can turbo the H23 with reliable and decent parts for less than 3500 (tune included with crome)

Does the proximity of the intercooler cause the cooling capabilities of the car to worsen? I've thought about buying a lower operating thermostat switch to insure the car keeps cool though, to counteract the build up of heat. Any other suggestions though about fan mounting and positioning in order to keep the car running as cool as possible? Does mounting them blowing or drawing make any difference or is there any preference?

Not really, if you are using a stock rad just make sure to get 2 high flowing slim fans. Buying another thermostat is not necessary. I mounted mine to draw air in because the turbo basically sits right next to the radiator. One thing i do wish i did before hand is take AC out.. it never worked for my car anyways and that makes 3 radiators, less flow and more crowd in the bay. But its up to you, i never had a problem

As far as running the intercooler piping to the inlet on the driver side, did you have to cut any of the frame or body to sneak that pipe in? I was looking today and couldn't really see much of an opening. Is that pretty much the only way we can run our intercooler piping?

[/b]You can run it out the side, to go into the bumper where the windshield fluid reservoir is, but you either have to A: move it into the bay (which with all the luxuries is a near impossibility) or you cut a bit into the fame (not much at all) to fit the 2.5" piping. Ill see if i can find some pics for you. [/b]

Also as far as the down pipe I only see people selling them for h22s. I'm sure as long as its for a T3/T4 turbo (style I'm using), it will fit either way; but I noticed the bolt pattern on the outlet side of the down pipe is only two bolt. I would hope I could do some fabrication to fit it to my current exhaust (2.5 with cat)? But I would assume I need to remove my Cat and upgrade to 3" all the way back with a free flowing muffler (which would suck because I just had custom 2.5 all the way back done 2 years ago to go along with the collector mod, for I just intended to remain N/A) and just got a wicked vibrant canister style muffler which is still probably/hopefully usable being that when you remove the silencer its 3" anyway, with a custom 2.5 axle over welded onto it.

You will need one custom made. I suggest selling that turbo if you want low boost. Just get a T3 super 60 trim turbo with a .63AR. That is the best turbo for this motor if the block is stock and you plan to run between 6-8psi. Again, if you are running just low psi you dont need 3" exhaust, i ran 2.5" with a high flow cat and i was fine.. it keeps the noise down and sounded fine. You dont need a vibrant or any glasspack muffler. its not going to be loud with an N1 style. like i had.

Also, as far as injectors go, which DSM injectors will fit in a prelude. I would consider buying a used set of DSMs if it would save me a couple hundred. I've seen RC 550s for 350 on eshay-dy (ebay) but I'm only doing 6-7 psi which after running my fuel maps would only need maybe 450 max, and that would keep my duty cycle well out of the 90s even. So I would like to avoid getting new injectors that are simply way over the requirements. My build has no margin for expansion until I blow the motor. In which case the block will get built and I'll have to bight the bullet and buy larger injectors.

DSM 450's are perfect for this. You dont need an upgraded fuel pump or map sensor or anything with that low of boost. 450's lean out at around 10psi. The 450's, between 6-8psi will be around 76-86% duty.

Mostly just looking for personal opinions being that your in the process right now on an h23 motor.

This is round 2 on this motor. I upgraded everything from my previous setup, the only remaining things i have from my old setup is my 31x12x3 intercooler, 2.5" charge pipe, tial 38mm wastegate and my greddy type-rs BOV. I am more than likely going to upgrade to a tial 50mm bov in the near future.

Anyways, like I said your car is looking fantastic, and I'm excited to see an h23 turbo'ed.
I also agree with you on the part of theres nothing wrong with the lower reving h23s. They do typically have a touch more torque here and there with making more hp in the lower rpms (stock to stock), which I think makes them a touch more fun to drive in my personal opinion. The h22 though takes me back to driving sports bikes that rev to like 12000-15000. Getting the h22 up to almost 8 grand was slightly smirk inspiring lol especially with the vtec engagement.

I still think the H22 is more fun to drive, i had an h22 prelude before this one. I am just saying that there is absolutly nothing wrong with the h23, and with the proper parts (without touching the sleeves/rods/pistons) the h23 can perform just as well as the h22. And, honestly, i think the h23 is a lot better to turbo for a street car.

Sorry about the long/numerous questions but the non interactive search can only take me so far