i wouldnt fool with the plug on the block, just get an inline flush kit and use that.

 

how come???

 

if you use an inline flush kit, you still have to finish draining the excess water out of the block. or you will just be full of water. and tightening the drain plug to 61ft. lbs seems like a hell of a lot. so i would check that spec. i would say the "KEY" is to find a helmes manual online for free. check out preludepower.com, thats where i got mine. or save yourself the trouble and just drain the radiator.

 

Per Helm's page 10-5, drain bolt torque spec is 61 lb.ft.

 

I took a look for the drain plug on the block and could not find it. My old Chilton manual shows that the plug is above the oil filter. Does this sound correct?

 

To clarify, the instructions I gave are for a 5th. gen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECnKEN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Per Helm's page 10-5, drain bolt torque spec is 61 lb.ft.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Helms 10-6 shows 60Nm which = 43 lb-ft.

 

Any pics of where these 2 things are
A) Remove the drain bolt from the rear side of the cylinder block to drain the block (except with ATTS).

B) Loosen the air bleed bolt in the thermostat housing, then fill the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck with the coolant mixture. Tighten the bleed bolt as soon as coolant starts to run out in a steady stream without bubbles.

Thanks

 

back from the dead eh

that picture came from searching, posted by Hu

 

ok quick additional question.
before I swapped I blew the headgasket of my old blok and there's still some oil mixed with the coolant. doesn't seem to be doing any harm but I want to flush it (totaly forgot during swap ) will a partial flush suffice or completely bleed it?

 

Thanks Jagan'92, sorry to bring it back lol