92 Prelude Si w/ h22a swap
DC Sports H/E
AEM Fuel Rail/FPR
Stock p13 ecu
NGK BKR7ES Plugs

So i've been having some problems with my car that seem to be progressively getting worse...

Sometimes when i start the car it will idle for about 2 seconds and then the car will die like somebody turned off the key. Once the car is in its "mood" it will continue to do this each time i try to start it after. The only way i can get it to idle/run is by holding the gas. Sometimes i only hafta hold the gas for like 20 seconds, a few times it has been like 6mins. While im holding the gas it sounds really rough like its missfiring and my narrowband a/f guage shows its running rich, not sweeping back in forth just rich. After i hold the gas all of the sudden the problem will just dissapear it idles smooth at 800rpm+-

Also since i have been having this problem i have noticed that while im driving the car will go into open loop and just run completely rich and i can feel it bogging slightly. Sometimes it runs fine, sometimes it does not. I have noticed that the problem is progressively getting worse and happens more often in the evening.

The only CEL being thrown is for the egr valve which is blocked off, and has been since i did the swap last year.

Things i've done:
Replaced o2 sensor
New plug wires
NGK Plugs are only about 4months old gapped at about .040+-
Changed IACV
Changed and set TPS sensor about .4volts at 0 throttle
Checked obvious grounds
Changed ECU's

still no change. any advise?....

 

what fuel pressure are you running?

 

i would hafta check again to be exact but i believe its about 35psi at idle

 

i would go back to the stock non-platinum zfr6f11 plugs for starters.

the plugs you are running are colder plugs which you do not need and can definately contribute to your problem. make sure your fuel pressure is set to stock and not much higher or that will definately cause your exact problem as you describe it running rich at idle/stalling/and breaking up when on the throttle.

and fix your egr problem.
btw, what kind of plug wires did you get?

 

plug wires are just a set of "Duralast" from autozone.

the only problem with saying its def the plugs is it doesnt do it all the time... olnly like half. sometimes i can start it up and drive no prob. other times i get this prob. if it were plugs wouldnt i get the same results every time?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmwright1986 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plug wires are just a set of "Duralast" from autozone.

the only problem with saying its def the plugs is it doesnt do it all the time... olnly like half. sometimes i can start it up and drive no prob. other times i get this prob. if it were plugs wouldnt i get the same results every time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im just saying the plugs can add to the problem.

get rid of the cheap wires also, it is common to have problems like this w/ aftermarket plug wires. get oem wires or ngk wires.

none of these things may fix your problems, but you have to get this stuff straight or you wont have a solid starting point to go from.

 

bump

 

did you check your fuel press yet?

 

yea its about 37psi with vaccum line connected, 48 without

 

38psi isnt enough fuel to make the car run that bad, but 48psi may do it.

im telling you man, start w/ some oem or ngk plug wires and a set of zfr6f11 plugs. also re-install the egr, reset the light then go from there.

you need a solid place to start from and you have too many things going on at once.....

aftermarket plug wires are a no no for hondas. any good honda technician will tell you that. they will definately cause the car to run bad, misfire and breakup.

the plugs you are using are too cold for your stock setup so that is going to add to an already rich condition and make the problem worse.

and the egr code can be the cause of it all.

you need to correct these things before going any further.

start w/ the egr, then the plug wires and plugs. goodluck

 

i'll give those things a try but it just seems like none of those are contributing to the problem. it did the same thing with the stock plug wires before i changed them. if i reset the ecu so it doesnt have any stored codes (egr) it will still do it upon startup. and the colder plugs contributing to the rich condition...like i said its like it gets stuck in open loop, the gauge doesnt sweep and read partially rich, its all the way rich and stays there without sweeping.

and i only have this problem sometimes, other times its completely normal. if any of the above were the problem i'd think the prob would occur all of the time

 

bleed your cooling systems sometimes an air pocket in the system will do that...and if that doesnt help then its probably a vacuum leak...u can test it by removing the air intake from the throttle body let your car idle and inside the throttle body on the left there should b two holes...cover up the bottom hole with your finger and if the car dies then u have a vacuum leak