Help! Hard to get in gear...
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Help! Hard to get in gear...
I need some help finding out what is causing this. So I just got a low mileage M2A4 installed along with a new clutch. Flywheel has been resurfaced, new clutch master and slave cylinder, Honda MTF, new stainless clutch line and has been bled numerous times. Problem is now it is hard to get into gears when car is on, but with engine off it shifts with no problem. If anyone has some insight on this issue please help me out. TIA
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Re: Help! Hard to get in gear... (Varano44)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Varano44 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it grinding at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No there is no grinding. I can make it grind at a stand still if I dont fully push it into gear... seems like the input shaft is still spinning, maybe? . Otherwise while driving there is no grinds just a little tuff to shift gears.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dagle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a problem with master/slave</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both have been replaced since issue occurred.
No there is no grinding. I can make it grind at a stand still if I dont fully push it into gear... seems like the input shaft is still spinning, maybe? . Otherwise while driving there is no grinds just a little tuff to shift gears.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dagle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a problem with master/slave</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both have been replaced since issue occurred.
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Re: Help! Hard to get in gear... (High Reved Racing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95jdm h22a accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same problem but i have to force it into gear and i just bought the car </TD></TR></TABLE>
I do have to force it in gear also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High Reved Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it like that in all the gears because if its like that in just 1 and 2 or just 3-4 it might be your synchro's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it is hard to get in all gears.
I do have to force it in gear also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High Reved Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it like that in all the gears because if its like that in just 1 and 2 or just 3-4 it might be your synchro's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it is hard to get in all gears.
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Re: Help! Hard to get in gear... (CentralCalLude92)
did you bleed the slave after replacing making sure to get all air out? check to see if the fluid is topped off just be sure it's not leaking throughout any of the lines.
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Re: Help! Hard to get in gear... (Saosinx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Saosinx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you bleed the slave after replacing making sure to get all air out? check to see if the fluid is topped off just be sure it's not leaking throughout any of the lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes bled system many times. There is no air, it is coming out completely clear. And fluid is topped off ,level has stayed the same and no apparent leaks.
Yes bled system many times. There is no air, it is coming out completely clear. And fluid is topped off ,level has stayed the same and no apparent leaks.
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Re: Help! Hard to get in gear... (CentralCalLude92)
Could I have just got a lemon clutch? or could it be something with the install?
Any other ideas? anyone.
Any other ideas? anyone.
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Have someone press the clutch down, or you press the clutch down and have someone look at the slave cylinder, to see if its fully compressing. If it is then their may be issues with the clutch/trans. But if its not then you have a issue with the hydrolic system. From there check for leaks, pump the clutch a bunch of times and see if your losing fluid. If not then you may have issues with the slave or master cyl. i myself have bought new cylinders that were bad.
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Re: (lsjon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsjon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have someone press the clutch down, or you press the clutch down and have someone look at the slave cylinder, to see if its fully compressing. If it is then their may be issues with the clutch/trans. But if its not then you have a issue with the hydrolic system. From there check for leaks, pump the clutch a bunch of times and see if your losing fluid. If not then you may have issues with the slave or master cyl. i myself have bought new cylinders that were bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok. I will try this.
Ok. I will try this.
#13
Re: (CentralCalLude92)
i had the same problem, put in a m2b4 tranny, new competition stage 2 clutch, fidanza flywheel, brand new clutch master and slave. It was really hard to put it in gear when the car was on but when teh car was off its pretty easy. now here is your problem since this is what fixed mine.
I tried bleeding the clutch a million times, even though i put the tranny wrong. Now this was so simple and stupid i had to laugh at it. Look at your clutch pedal, your clutch pedal is prolly screwed in about 1/4 way in, you have you screw the adjuster further out so there is close to no gap and tighten the screw. this will give your clutch more pressure and you will be able to get it in gear with no problem.
here is a lil illustration
part C has to be screwed out <--- going towards the firewall.
I tried bleeding the clutch a million times, even though i put the tranny wrong. Now this was so simple and stupid i had to laugh at it. Look at your clutch pedal, your clutch pedal is prolly screwed in about 1/4 way in, you have you screw the adjuster further out so there is close to no gap and tighten the screw. this will give your clutch more pressure and you will be able to get it in gear with no problem.
here is a lil illustration
part C has to be screwed out <--- going towards the firewall.
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Re: (richlude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsjon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have someone press the clutch down, or you press the clutch down and have someone look at the slave cylinder, to see if its fully compressing. If it is then their may be issues with the clutch/trans. But if its not then you have a issue with the hydrolic system. From there check for leaks, pump the clutch a bunch of times and see if your losing fluid. If not then you may have issues with the slave or master cyl. i myself have bought new cylinders that were bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No luck. Not losing fluid and is fulling compressing.
No luck. Not losing fluid and is fulling compressing.
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Re: (richlude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem, put in a m2b4 tranny, new competition stage 2 clutch, fidanza flywheel, brand new clutch master and slave. It was really hard to put it in gear when the car was on but when teh car was off its pretty easy. now here is your problem since this is what fixed mine.
I tried bleeding the clutch a million times, even though i put the tranny wrong. Now this was so simple and stupid i had to laugh at it. Look at your clutch pedal, your clutch pedal is prolly screwed in about 1/4 way in, you have you screw the adjuster further out so there is close to no gap and tighten the screw. this will give your clutch more pressure and you will be able to get it in gear with no problem.
here is a lil illustration
part C has to be screwed out <--- going towards the firewall. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This seemed to help a little, but it is still a little tuff to engage.
Update: I noticed today that when i press the clutch in and try to get it into gear it is still tough to get in gear... but if i leave the pedal pressed for about 30 secs it is easier to get into gear. Maybe this will help, if someone knows with that symptom.
I tried bleeding the clutch a million times, even though i put the tranny wrong. Now this was so simple and stupid i had to laugh at it. Look at your clutch pedal, your clutch pedal is prolly screwed in about 1/4 way in, you have you screw the adjuster further out so there is close to no gap and tighten the screw. this will give your clutch more pressure and you will be able to get it in gear with no problem.
here is a lil illustration
part C has to be screwed out <--- going towards the firewall. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This seemed to help a little, but it is still a little tuff to engage.
Update: I noticed today that when i press the clutch in and try to get it into gear it is still tough to get in gear... but if i leave the pedal pressed for about 30 secs it is easier to get into gear. Maybe this will help, if someone knows with that symptom.
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Re: (High Reved Racing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High Reved Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fact that holding the clutch in for more time helps makes me think you still have air in your system </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've bled this thing so many times. I've gone through 3 bottle of brake fluid, is there air just trapped somewhere? I'll just keep bleeding it i guess.
I've bled this thing so many times. I've gone through 3 bottle of brake fluid, is there air just trapped somewhere? I'll just keep bleeding it i guess.
#19
Re: (G2IntegraGS)
i had too bleed mine fast so that the air didn't have time to work it's way to the top of the system, and make shore that you keep the reservoir full because if you let it get to low you have to get more air all the way through the system
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Re: (G2IntegraGS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2IntegraGS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the adjustment and make sure your bleeding it right. I had to use a power bleeder to get mine right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok may just need to do this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High Reved Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had too bleed mine fast so that the air didn't have time to work it's way to the top of the system, and make shore that you keep the reservoir full because if you let it get to low you have to get more air all the way through the system</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok may just need to do this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High Reved Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had too bleed mine fast so that the air didn't have time to work it's way to the top of the system, and make shore that you keep the reservoir full because if you let it get to low you have to get more air all the way through the system</TD></TR></TABLE>
#22
Re: (h23prelude)
did you replace your clutch slave and master cylinder?
i did my tranny swap 2 weeks ago and my clutch master slave was bad so i wasnt getting enough pressure, i changed it and it worked fine.
i did my tranny swap 2 weeks ago and my clutch master slave was bad so i wasnt getting enough pressure, i changed it and it worked fine.
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I as well had to use a air compressed power bleeder, i tryed this manually and OMG!! these are a bitch to bleed. Preludes have the worste clutch line setup ive ever seen on a honda. But i still dont believe theirs air in the system, if their was air in the system you wouldnt be seeing the slave cylinder fully compressing.... so bleeding i dont believe is your solution.
asjustment rod on the master cyl, is just allowing how much play you have available. so that narrows that out also.
im really believing its a issue with the clutch itself.
Ive seen people replace transmissions and not even reinstall the release bearing :x lol but yeah hate to give ya bad news, but sounds like you covered all your basics, you might have to get dirty and rip out the trans. But keep asking around, i just think taking it out and seeing whats going on is gonna be your only option left personaly.
asjustment rod on the master cyl, is just allowing how much play you have available. so that narrows that out also.
im really believing its a issue with the clutch itself.
Ive seen people replace transmissions and not even reinstall the release bearing :x lol but yeah hate to give ya bad news, but sounds like you covered all your basics, you might have to get dirty and rip out the trans. But keep asking around, i just think taking it out and seeing whats going on is gonna be your only option left personaly.
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Re: (lsjon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you replace your clutch slave and master cylinder?
i did my tranny swap 2 weeks ago and my clutch master slave was bad so i wasnt getting enough pressure, i changed it and it worked fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes both are new
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be sure that the bolts holding the clutch mount are tight and be sure that the top mount is not broken.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsjon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I as well had to use a air compressed power bleeder, i tryed this manually and OMG!! these are a bitch to bleed. Preludes have the worste clutch line setup ive ever seen on a honda. But i still dont believe theirs air in the system, if their was air in the system you wouldnt be seeing the slave cylinder fully compressing.... so bleeding i dont believe is your solution.
asjustment rod on the master cyl, is just allowing how much play you have available. so that narrows that out also.
im really believing its a issue with the clutch itself.
Ive seen people replace transmissions and not even reinstall the release bearing :x lol but yeah hate to give ya bad news, but sounds like you covered all your basics, you might have to get dirty and rip out the trans. But keep asking around, i just think taking it out and seeing whats going on is gonna be your only option left personaly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah not what I wanted to hear...but looks as though thats what is going to have to be done.
i did my tranny swap 2 weeks ago and my clutch master slave was bad so i wasnt getting enough pressure, i changed it and it worked fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes both are new
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be sure that the bolts holding the clutch mount are tight and be sure that the top mount is not broken.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsjon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I as well had to use a air compressed power bleeder, i tryed this manually and OMG!! these are a bitch to bleed. Preludes have the worste clutch line setup ive ever seen on a honda. But i still dont believe theirs air in the system, if their was air in the system you wouldnt be seeing the slave cylinder fully compressing.... so bleeding i dont believe is your solution.
asjustment rod on the master cyl, is just allowing how much play you have available. so that narrows that out also.
im really believing its a issue with the clutch itself.
Ive seen people replace transmissions and not even reinstall the release bearing :x lol but yeah hate to give ya bad news, but sounds like you covered all your basics, you might have to get dirty and rip out the trans. But keep asking around, i just think taking it out and seeing whats going on is gonna be your only option left personaly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah not what I wanted to hear...but looks as though thats what is going to have to be done.