Dnug

Okay, I did an H22A swap in a bb6 (engine and trans).

I went to do the CKF Bypass trick and the two pin connectors for C1 and C11 were gone. It seems whoever had the prelude before me just yanked out the pins and wires without splicing C1/C4 and C11/C14.

I found some pins almost exactly the same size and replaced them. I plugged up new wires to the pins although they are slightly larger wires than the originals (I think the wires I used are 18 gauge?).

After splicing C1/C14 and C11/C14 my cel for the CKF immediately vanished and it WAS running good as new.

I took her out for a test drive and everything ran perfect...until I hit VTEC.


As soon as I hit VTEC a CEL came on and the car instantly went into limp mode. The CEL is P1361.

I understand that:
P-Power Train
1-Manufacturer Specified Code (Honda)
3-Ignition System, Misfire
6-Component or Sub-System Section
1-Component or Sub-System Section

So, I cleared the codes and tried again, sure enough as soon as I hit VTEC the cel/limp mode comes back. I didn't have this code before the CKF bypass, so I'm thinking that may be the culprit.

It also seemed to overheat when idling, and the idle is a little low.

I'm not that great with wiring/electronics so I'm kind of stumped. It just seems weird that it runs perfect until VTEC...


On a side question, will OBD1 ecu plug pins fit in an OBD2 plug?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I planned on daily driving this car.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

No your code is P1361 TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption
So with that being said your wiring for the CKF bypass trick wrong or not connected properly.
I would also recommend you adjusting your idle via the idle adjustment screw on your throttle body.


The obd1 ecu pins wont fit an obd2 ecu plug I have tried that and failed the obd1 pins are a bit larger in width while the obd2 pins are smaller/skinnier.

Acidcrakker

Yea, oBD2 and obd1 are very different systems

Dnug

Thank you for the fast reply, I just spliced C1/C4 and C11/C14, its my first time doing any wiring but it seemed pretty easy.

I used wires that are bigger than the stock wires and had to use make shift pins since the only ones I can find online are OBD1. I'm guessing that's where the problem is.

I guess I'll have to go to a junkyard to get the correct pins? I'm having the hardest time finding any...




Thanks again for the help.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Nonsense I have some obd2 ecu plug pins in my tool box. I will help you out just send me your address and I will mail some pins with some wire left on them so all you have to do is splice them in or solder them in.

Dnug

That would be great, the dealer said they could only sell me the whole harness...and most junk yards don't want you hacking up their engine harnesses.

Thanks so much for the help, pming you now.

Dnug

Thanks for everyone's help, I'll post an update once I switch out my crappy MacGyver wiring job.

Acidcrakker

What junk yard are you shopping you. I hack up more harnesses than I can count at any junk yard Ive been to, and no one cares, In fact I get most of my plugs for free.

motoxxxman

I cut plugs any chance I get, cuz you never know when I or someone else may only need a pin or two. and I always save old harnesses too for the same reason.

98vtec

why are you doing this for the h22a swap?

there is no "bypass trick" necessary for this swap

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Lol 98vtec is right there is no such thing as a CKF bypass trick for us luders. Heres more info on that:

Prelude and Accord do not have CKF!

CKF is a sensor found on OBD2 civics and integras. I have not seen this sensor on anything other than B or D series engines.

The sensors on the Accord and Prelude oil pumps are CKP and TDC.

JDM OBD2 era Accord/Prelude motors have OBD1 style distributors with all 3 sensors in the distributor

Our crank sensor is located in our distributors or down by the oil pump, and is ran off our lower timing belt

drive gear. Sorry I wasn't thinking at all and didn't tell you about this sooner, I was

thinking about the time I used the bypass trick on my 99 civic with jdm b20b swap.

Anyways take the ecu pins with the wire attached to them that I sent you and hook them up to wherever the

previous owner decided to cut them. The wires are there so you wont have to do much

wiring, just splice them in and give us an update on your issue. Also if you need more pins just let me know and I will send some your way.

THC07

??? what you mean obd2 accords and ludes dont have CKF?
been a long time since ive had to do this trick but I was almost sure the obd2 p13 wanted signal for it. an so did the p5m.
*confused*

Acidcrakker

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/prelude-h22a-ecu-pinouts-918703/

Dnug

Just got the new pins/wires in the mail from Thirsk66. Big big thanks to him, and thanks to everyone else for the help.

Dnug

So no CKF trick for the ludes/accords huh? I wonder why the previous owner yanked the pins/wires for that then...maybe he thought the same thing I did.

So I just need to put the wires back to stock configuration, without splicing anything?

In the OBDII ECU pinout Acidcrakker posted, there is nothing listed for pin C11 and the pin C1 (that I'm missing as well.) is for ATTS (which I don't have).

So do I even need to wire anything to those pin locatons?

I could have sworn it was throwing a CKF code...but now that I think about it, it may have been CKP or CYP and I immediately thought CKF instead.

I'm thinking I will take out the spliced wires, and check the code(s) without C1/C11 connected?

Thanks again for all the help everyone.

98vtec

What distributor are you using

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Did a bit more thinking on your issue and I have to ask did you swap in a jdm obd2 h22a? Also if you did, have you reused the crank posistion sensor that mounts on the oil pump from your old engine , or did you just use everything from the jdm motor? I really wanna help you get your lude running right.
This is the wiring for the usdm to jdm distributor wiring if that is what you are using: http://www.importintelligence.com/hoprh22ustoj.html

98vtec

There's no need to do ANY wiring on this swap. Rywire makes a conversion harness if you run the obd1 distributor. If you run the obd2 distributor you must run the obd2 oil pump, its sensors and the obd2 timing and balancer gear.

Dnug

Sorry for delay, I'm in process of moving so its been hectic.

I'm actually using stuff that was already on the car when I bought it.

The car had an OBDII H22A when I bought it, but the motor had thrown a rod, and other things. So, I bought an OBDII H22A and transmission.

The only things I've bought are plugs, filters, and a new starter.

I guess I'll have to do some research to figure out what distributor and crank position sensor is currently on the car.

I'm gonna remove the two wires from C1/C11 today and check the codes. I don't need C1/C11 if I don't have atts right? Just wanted to make sure it didn't have another purpose besides atts.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I hear you man, well if you bought a usdm h22a swap then you already have the crank sensor on your oil pump and should have a TD-77U distributor with the external coil. But if you have a JDM swap then the only things different is no crank sensor on the oil pump and the distributors are different, since jdm distributors have an internal coil setup.

You are correct C1/C11 have no uses other then ATTS so you are good to go on everything or should be. Just remove the wires clear the codes and let us know how the car runs. Hope to hear form you ASAP.

Dnug

It's a JDM motor, so what are people doing for the CKP? Should I just use a USDM oil pump?

I also read something about the lower timing gears being different as well.

My buddy was supposed to come by with his scantool but hes tied up at the moment. I'm off to use the old paperclip trick, should have some codes shortly.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Okay well Im assuming your using the jdm distributor and ECU that came with the engine swap. I am also guessing you are using your h22a4 engine harness that was on the car before the swap was put in?
If you do have those parts on your engine then you should use the usdm to jdm dizzy wiring instructions which is here in this thread on post #17. If you are using the usdm distributor then yes you would have to install a usdm oil pump with crank sensor on it. Without the crank sensor and oil pump you would have a no start symptom like I did when installing my jdm swap. Is there anyway you could take pics of your engine and post them here on this thread so we can all see what you are dealing with?

tolleson8278

Yes please i have a similar problem

Guillermo Felix

Hey new here i have a 99 accord 2.3 vtec that i had broken a bolt inside the block so i went on word that any other accord engine aroun the same year would fit so i bought a 96 engine non vtec took the head off and use the block only ran with 2 problems no knock sensor and no crank position sensor either i mounted a k ock sensor to the block when i put everything back together is when i noticed that i was missin the crank shaft positikn sensor my question is would the trick work on my 99 accord i checked the ecu pins i have no ckfm pin can anyone help please...