im guessing its that adjustment nut the screws up and down.

 

well i ahve that sell all the way down?

 

yea i was talking about hamadiscool, from his thread he pasted in this one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bubxba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here's what i got



</TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHHAHAHHAHHAHAHHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHA

Sorry... But did they come with instructions?

 

i did, and it was...that black plate is rubber...and those bump stops are like falling apart. And yeah it did come with instructions, but to the instructions, i put them on right. waht are yalls views on switching the springs...the back in the front and front in back, since the spring rates are different.

 

Do you people not understand that the picture was taken at full droop with the car in the air? With stiffer springs and stock OTS shocks, the springs WILL lose contact with the upper perch. That's normal. I wonder how many of you that are giving this guy "advice" have actually installed a set of GCs or similar coilovers...

For a street car, the stiffer springs should have gone up front. Do you know the rates?

It really looks like the springs are just too long for as low as you want to drop it.

Didn't the instructions say to cut the dust boot and use it to hold the spring isolator in place? It doesn't look like you've done that.

 

i didnt put the boot on...ha i didnt ahve anything to cut the rubbeer with, but i was htinking...what if i put the stiff ones in the back since i can like overly tuck the back..and the less stiff up front?

 

That's what I do on my track car. I actually run rear spring bias (750 lb/in front and 950 lb/in rear). However, on a street car this will make the ride quality suffer, and the front may feel too soft, depending on what the rates are.

Give it a try, it doesn't take long to swap springs.

 

yeah, i think the spring rates are wrong, cause i dont think my front shocks are stock, so im thinking that the pring rates will work better if i put the back up fornt and fron in the back, im jsut scared that back will be to high with such a stiff spring rate in the back, i mean if it cant tuck the front,would it be able to tuck the back?like maybe the fenders are lower or something idk.

 

b.

 

I know this has been said like 10 times but the black plate does have a hole in it right for the bump stop to slide through.....right?

 

yeah....i dont even ahve bump stops on it right now they like fell apart, getting new ones asap.

 

I also have GC coil-overs, but for some reason at the lowest setting they dont tuck the front tires but they do tuck the rear i have tokico illumnas shocks if that matters

 

im glad to hear someone has the same problem as me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you people not understand that the picture was taken at full droop with the car in the air? With stiffer springs and stock OTS shocks, the springs WILL lose contact with the upper perch. That's normal. I wonder how many of you that are giving this guy "advice" have actually installed a set of GCs or similar coilovers...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen to that! There is so much bad information in this thread that it should just be deleted. That or some of these posts should be removed. I would hate to run into this thread with questions only to find a different answer on every second post

The car is not on the ground so the shock is going to unload itself which in turn is going to lower the entire assembly which causes the spring to lower itself from the top hat and isolator. Like 117 said, this is normal. I have koni yellow's with GC's and every time I raise the car on jackstands the springs uncompressed and sagged like in the pictures here.

The only piece of advice I can give is watch out when putting the car back on the ground. Make sure the rubber isolators are seated properly and make sure the springs seat into the isolators properly. Here is mine on jackstands with the spring dropped from the top hat. Make sure the isolator is up in the hat and when lowering the car, make sure the spring seats in the isolator nicely.

 

thanks man, yeah i always make sure of that, jsut let the jack go down really slow and aim it in the rihgt place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bubxba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks man, yeah i always make sure of that, jsut let the jack go down really slow and aim it in the rihgt place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NP To answer your first question. I also noticed that I couldn't really lower the car that much. I was hoping for a little more of a drop but I also didn't play with the setup that much. I was told that with the koni/GC setup that you can't drop the car that much as it is for whatever reason.


Here is a pic of how she sits with the stock wheels and new tires. I checked the shock travel when the car was on the ground and it looked as if I only had about an inch of travel in the front. The rear was okay and could be lowered more but the front is what I was worried about. I also just sent an email to Ground Control about the circlips and where they should be if we want to lower our cars and still keep a good amount of shock travel. I do think it's car specific though.

 

im really pondering on switching my springs up...becasue my back springs are overly tucked, but my front isnt at all, im hoping my back will still tuck some if i switch the sorings and the front will drop where i want it...when ever i get some spare time is when i plan on it.

 

What are your spring rates front and back? What are the numbers on the GC springs? I would think all 4 springs are the same height so if the rates are pretty much the same then I don't see how one will allow the car to be lowered more than the other. Unless your rates are very different then it could be a different story.

I got a reply back from GC already and the first thing they said was that the Prelude is not a great car to lower as there is little shock travel for the preludes. They also stated that you can lower the snap rings or cir clips to the lower perches but you will lose shock travel. Lower it an inch, lose an inch of shock travel. This is something I don't get. Why would there be any perches for the snap rings if it doesn't do anything other than lose shock travel? I know you have stock shocks so this doesn't really apply to you (OP).

 

well if the back is dropping so much, then the spring rate has to be different, cause the front still has aobut a inch till its tucked, and the back is dropped like a inch or more of tuck.if the back is that soft i can def. tuck the front, im jsut scared the back wont tuck anymore.

 

Well git er done and let us know how it went. That picture you posted of your suspension....was that the front or rear?

 

front, and the picture of my car, i dont have the back near as low as it can go.


Modified by bubxba at 9:35 AM 1/11/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bubxba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">front, and the picture of my car, i dont have the back near as low as it can go.


Modified by bubxba at 9:35 AM 1/11/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do some searching for the shock fork trick. I don't know if your stock shocks can handle will work with this trick but it's worth looking into. Basically I think all you need to do is lower the shock in the shock fork and re-tighten it. I don't know 100% if that's all you need to do so maybe someone else can elaborate on that (117 ). Do you have the collar on your coilover screwed right to the bottom like the front?

 

now i do, but not in the picture.

 

IT FINALLY WORKS, i put the rear springs in the front and front in back, and its great, i adjsuted the ride height to exactly how i like it and it feels great.