JDMs2

doing a euro r swap into my 97 prelude base

ive been searching for info on it for weeks
i was hoping some one here can help

i have the complete euro r h22a with t2w4, jdm harness, jdm ecu

is there a way to use the jdm harness with the jdm ecu?, since the complete setup is there... i believe i need to swap the oil pump because of the sensors for the internal coil dizzy but what else exactly do i need to do

do i need an obd1 to obd2 conversion harness? or do i need a obd2a to obd2b conversion?

what about the intake manifold and the iacv do i need to swap anything there?

fuel rail on opposite side... whats the best fix for this? is there anything i have to do to the injectors?

i have the h22a4 harness and ecu from the black top...
but i really wanted to use the euro r intake manifold and ecu
i also planned on getting it tuned afterwards

i do not have to worry about emissions where i live

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

JDMs2

"keep all the JDM stuff on the engine and adapt your USDM harness. You just need to rewire the CKP/CYP connectors along with the USDM dizzy harness into the JDM connector. Or now you can go with the adapter from Rywire, which sounds a whole lot easier. You'll need to change the plug for the knock sensor as well IIRC. I think that's pretty much everything, just make sure you use the JDM or another OBD1 ecu if you go that route. And you'll need to adjust your base timing as well with a timing light."

is this all i need to do?

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

If you are wanting something tuneable then you will have to switch to an obd1 ecu unless you are able to use a piggyback system.

The easiest way would then be to use your existing harness, swap oil pumps if needed or rewire the harness to use an obd1 dizzy. Then on the ecu end do a conversion harness and a P28 ecu with Hondata or neptune to run it. You would need to get it tuned of course.

Everything on the manifold you can use but you will probably want an iacv adapter to be able to use your h22a4 2 wire iacv.

ekcivicf20b

Rosko, didn't you make the first adapter plate for the 2 wire Iacv for the euro-r and sir-t manifolds?

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

Not the first, but I do make them still.

ekcivicf20b

You make incredible parts. Always intrigued by the things you put out there.

JDMs2

is the euro r ecu not obd1?... rosko i just ordered the adapter plate from you for the USDM iacv and i was looking at the external to internal dizzy adapter...

i plan on getting it tuned.. so if i need to get another ecu and a hondata thats fine... but i see in forums people say they are looking for the euro r ecu and some say they should have used it in the first place

the problem is most of the forums about this swap just end... with no updates...
or they do the USDM IM with the USDM dizzy with the usdm harness... but most of the time they say they dont have the JDM harness.. so thats their only option...

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

If you want it all setup like stock and DO NOT plan to tune then you technically could use the Euro-R ecu since you have the harness as well but its still alot of work as you have to replace the harness all the way back to the ECU and then integrate a few other things out of the original harness. There hasnt been too many people who have made it work.

If your end goal is to tune though it would be of no use to you as it is obd2 so you'd be better off to start down that path instead.

JDMs2

yes i just read.. (searched my ecu) the euro r PCD ecu is OBD2b ..
thanks for the help... i will post back soon
more research like the Intake Manifold... it is hard to find a gasket for this...
is there a way to install everything and bring it to get tuned (after its running)
so i dont have to swap IM's twice..
do i need to use the USDM throttle body with the euro r IM
thanks again

JDMs2

so im leaning towards the p72 obd1 with s300(from hondata)
s2k throttle body
RDX injectors
roskos fuel rail adapter plate
roskos egr block off plate
all ready ordered the iacv adapter plate

1 question
will the USDM ecu be ok with the euro r Intake Manifold, Throttle Body, Fuel Rail and Injectors untill i get it tuned? the closest tune shop for hondata is an hour and a half away

i see alot of people saying that you need to swap the fuel rail when installing the euro r IM to a h22a4

since this engine comes with the IM allready on it
do i still need to switch fuel rails when doing the obd2b to obd1 setup

maybe thats 2 questions... ive been reading for 3 days straight, non-stop

also kinda worried about being able to find a h22 base fuel map

ekcivicf20b

If you are running hondata s300 you will be able to upload an h22a map. It has calibrations available in the Smanager.

JDMs2

thanks... when im done with this swap... i will post pics ... probably have about 10k in it right now lol so im not giving up


and im not gonna just stop posting when i figure out the problems...
like so many of the old forums

117

If you're interested I have a brand new S300, but it's in a P28. I also have the CPR setup (also brand new).

JDMs2

no but thank you, I think I'd rather the p72, not even sure yet gonna use the USDM ecu and get it running with no codes before I deal with that I just got the rest of my gaskets in, I'm going to run with the euro r injectors and tb and the USDM ecu just waiting for the oil, pump timing belt kit, and the water pump, I'm sure we will figure out any problems , I Also think I need a fuel rail adapter from rosko to use the USDM fuel rail

JDMs2

Well I can't figure out how to post a picture, why are no attachments allowed that's lame

117

Why the P72? I don't recall any specific advantages of the P72 over the P28 when using NepTune, Hondata, etc.

JDMs2

The faps I believe , I'm going to research it when the time comes

holmesnmanny

iab and knock sensor

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

You need to match whatever ecu with the correct injectors. If you are going to run a stock usdm eco then you also need to run those injectors. Otherwise due to the size difference between those injectors you could be either too rich or too lean and damage the motor.

Also about your intake gasket... When you switch to the 2 wire iacv you are bypassing the air injection system which is what makes that gasket different. When you pull off the intake manifold all you need to do is plug the 4 air injection holes (1 near each injector) and then you can proceed to use a regular intake manifold gasket. If you do not plan to remove the manifold then there is just one fitting on the underside of the manifold that you will need to plug with a vac cap.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I have this same swap in my 98 prelude and it has been a joy to have and also one of the most pain the asses. For me it was the fact I was like you I wanted to run the euro-r ecu and the jdm distributor and engine harness it came with, but since I am in California I needed to be able to pass smog, so I ended up going all obd2 complaint. I used the old h22a4 items from my blacktop swap like: the distributor, oil pump with crank sensor, the lower timing gear and balance shaft gear, engine harness for ease of plug n play, the fuel rail and 2 wire IACV with the one of Rosko's adapter plates and EGR valve. I also bought a chipped p28 ecu and it has been a nice addition.

As far as you worrying about injectors, use your euro-r's with the h22a4 fuel rail. Buy a fuel rail adapter kit from Shawn over at Rosko Racing and tell him you are using the euro-r injectors so he can make you some custom spacers so the injectors fit like a charm. Also you can purchase one of his billet EGR cover plates for your intake manifold so there is no clearance issues when using his fuel rail adapter kit for the a4 fuel rail. That is what I did and it is money well spent.

Since I was curious and really wanted to see how the original euro-r ecu ran the engine, I later ended up purchasing the PCD euro-r ecu with a rywire obd2b to obd2a conversion harness. I wired in the 3 wire iacv that the engine originally came with and found the car idled great and was good for only a couple driving cycles. And then there was a CEL code for the egr valve insufficient lift, when this happened the car ran awful and it wasn't very fun pulling over to the side of the road to reset the ecu to clear the code. Even with the use of the euro-r egr valve and correct wiring the code still came up, so I ditched the euro-r ecu and went back to my p28 ecu and haven't looked back since. It is so much easier and far less sensors to worry about running this way. I wish you the best of luck with this swap its a great one once you get everything situated and setup to your liking.

Nuage420b

I'm currently failing at getting my EURO-R swap to run the correct ecu. I think I'm just going to go p28 and call it a day.

holmesnmanny

Did you read anything in this thread ? Rosko outlines what you need to do to get the intake manifold to work and thus the ecu.